Valaam, like a mythological island from the fairy tales of the northern peoples, is washed on all sides by cold northern waters. . It is located on Lake Ladoga, twenty-two kilometers from the mainland. I will tell you how to get to this, without exaggeration, fabulous land. I also recommend that you familiarize yourself with the features of life on the island, which I described in, before the trip.

There are many ways to visit Valaam. For example, I find it convenient to travel with a tourist group, and independent travel. It all depends on what you need: save money, go on a tour with comfort and all the amenities, or come to the island with a tent and explore the surroundings on your own; or maybe you want to go to the monastery with a group of pilgrims and read prayers on the way. In any case, if you, like me, are not traveling with an organized tourist group, but on your own, then you first need to get to, and then transfer to water transport and from there sail to Valaam. Vessels to Valaam depart from the following cities:

• , the nearest city to Valaam on the mainland (42 km).
• Priozersk (50 km).
• Lakhdenpokhya (45 km).
• Pitkyaranta (35.5 km).
• (220 km).

Tour to Valaam

Tours (secular and pilgrimage) are the most convenient way to travel to Valaam. A trip with a group of those who want to visit this place, like you, does not at all imply any serious restrictions, but it guarantees you a quality excursion, awareness of the rules of conduct and, in many cases, savings.

Among my friends there is a widespread opinion that tours involve overpayment and it is cheaper to go on a trip yourself. I agree that this is true for some places, but not for Valaam. Here, a trip with a tourist group is just the way to save money and protect yourself from various unpleasant situations. Due to the fact that Valaam is the land of monks, where spiritual life is a priority, there are a number of rules that many independent (especially not churched) travelers may not be aware of, and having a guide greatly simplifies getting to know the local order.

Tours are good for those people who want to travel to Valaam with comfort and minimal worries about finding accommodation, transport, and so on. And also to people who prefer to be met by people who are aware of the peculiarities of local life and take a tour of local attractions upon arrival. Vouchers are bought in travel agencies right at the berths. I also chose to do so when I went for the first time. I just arrived at the River Station in St. Petersburg, went to a couple of travel agencies (to compare prices) and chose what suited me the most. Departure was soon.

For such a spontaneous trip, you only need money and a passport. The tour included: meals, accommodation in a cabin, guide, travel. I believe that for the first trip to Valaam - the tour is the most convenient way get. Upon arrival on the island, the guide met and helped to orientate on the ground, and then held unforgettable excursions. After that, we still have time to walk around the island on our own. In my opinion it is very convenient. On my second visit, I came on my own and had an idea of ​​local life.

Benefits of purchasing a tour:

• firms have privileges to book tickets: all best places get them;
• you will be taken and brought, met and escorted to your destination, so there will be no difficulties with movement;
• the guide will bring you up to date;
• as a rule, accommodation is included in the tour, and if independent organization travel with this can be a problem;
• the tourist group has planned excursions and scheduled sightseeing;
• meals included in the price;
• in case of force majeure, like bad weather, you will not be alone, and the organizers will take care of solving this problem; you will not have to rack your brains;
• tours are inexpensive and can come out even cheaper independent travel;
• there are many options, among which you can choose the one that suits you: for one day or several, on an expensive ship or on a cheap one, with or without accommodation, etc.

Vouchers to Valaam can be purchased through agencies or directly at the piers, in advance via the Internet or by phone in the following cities:

• Priozersk;
• Sortavala;
• Pitkyaranta (60 km from Valaam).

Pilgrimage to Valaam

By helicopter

Air communication with the island is carried out only by helicopter (relevant at any time of the year), but this is an expensive service. It is carried out by Fortuna, flights are made in St. Petersburg from different places:

• airport Pulkovo-2;
• St. Petersburg city center (information about the place of departure is discussed with the customer);
• suburb of St. Petersburg.

The MI-8 helicopter can accommodate 20 people - it is easy to arrange the transportation of a group of people. There are other models - they differ from each other in capacity, speed, and so on. Prices are discussed with the management of the company. The only document required is a passport. The company offers organized excursions. The helicopter lands on a specially equipped platform located behind the Spaso-Preobrazhensky Monastery on Valaam. On the way you will spend about 1.5 hours. Only bad weather can interfere with the flight.

• seats - from 800 rubles;
• reserved seat - from 1200 rubles;
• coupe - from 2500 rubles;

In St. Petersburg, trains arrive at one of two stations: Moskovsky Station (Ploshchad Vosstaniya metro station) or Ladozhsky Station (Ladozhskaya metro station).

From St. Petersburg to Sortavala

Traveling by train to Sortavala is cheaper than by bus (if you take seats). From St. Petersburg, trains depart from the direction: St. Petersburg - Priozersk - Khiitola - Sortavala. By train St. Petersburg - Kostomuksha, for which Sortavala will be an intermediate station. The journey will take about 6 hours.

Approximate prices:

• seats - 500;
• reserved seat - 1000;
• coupe - 1600;

By car

Traveling by private car is a comfortable option, but you need to take care of parking in the city from which you will sail to Valaam. If you don't have a car, you can rent a car for a trip in your city - compare rental prices.

From Moscow to Saint Petersburg

The distance from Moscow to St. Petersburg is 715 km, such a trip lasts about 8-12 hours.

The main route is M-10; it differs in coverage, which in some places leaves much to be desired. There is also a toll road - the M-11 highway, which will be fully commissioned by 2018. The fare on it will be about 1500 rubles. Now the first segment of the route is in operation (from 15 to 58 kilometers). The maximum permitted speed on the highway is 150 km per hour. I can give you a little advice that many people know: it is best to leave at night, because there are fewer cars

From St. Petersburg to Sortavala and Priozersk

Priozersk will be the nearest city on your way, from which you can sail to Valaam. It is about 159 km to go to it - it's more than two hours. With a fuel consumption of 10 liters per 100 km and an average cost of 40 rubles, you will need: 15.9 liters of fuel and 636 rubles.

If you are sailing to Valaam from Priozersk and are going to stay for a few days, you can park your car in a paid parking lot next to the Valaam pier (from which you will sail). Parking prices are only about 100 rubles for the entire stay there. The parking lot is very good and safe.

Priozersk is closer to Petersburg than. Therefore, in my opinion, it makes no sense to waste time and gasoline in order to sail to Valaam from Sortavala, and not from Priozersk (even though it is cheaper and faster to sail from Sortavala). But if there are no tickets in Priozersk, then it is better to go to Sortavala.

From St. Petersburg to Sortavala by car, you can drive along the A-121 highway in 4 hours (279 km in total). If we take as an example the fuel consumption is the same as I described above, then for 279 km you will need 27.9 liters of gasoline and it will cost 1116 rubles.

The route is free, it is best to leave early in the morning. In Sortavala, next to the pier, there is a paid parking lot where you can leave your car and safely sail away.

By water transport

The main way to get to Valaam is by water transport. If we talk about cruises and tours, then there are many points of departure for water transport to Valaam. Many cruise ships sail on waterway with stops at different interesting places(depending on which route you choose). Others, on the contrary, do not make stops. Our ship departed in the evening: after spending the night in a cabin and not stopping anywhere along the road, we sailed to Valaam from St. Petersburg along the Neva River and then along.

From these cities you can sail to Valaam on a cruise ship:

• Moscow - cruise ships depart from here with a stop at Valaam. But of course, compared to St. Petersburg and Sortavala, the cruise from Moscow is not the most popular;
• St. Petersburg - from here motor ships sail from the River Station along the Neva, which has access to Lake Ladoga;
• Petrozavodsk - despite the fact that Petrozavodsk is located on the coast Lake Onega, ships from it enter Ladoga along the Svir River and stop at Valaam, but this is an unpopular route.

Water transport arrives at Monastyrskaya (from Sortavala and Priozersk) and Nikonovskaya bays (from St. Petersburg).

Tickets at all the berths I have been to are sold primarily to organizations organizing excursions, and the cheapest ones disappear from sale first. Often there are no tickets left at all. The same is true for Valaam. Departure from Valaam may be even more distant due to the weather. But in fact, as such, there is no problem to leave the mainland for Valaam on any ship: in reality, there is almost always room. If they refuse to put you on a ship, just go to all other ships and ask you to take you to Valaam for money (you will be offered different prices).

Tourist business on Valaam is designed for organized groups. Therefore, having decided to go on your own, get ready to hear (on Valaam and in the cities from which water transport leaves for the island): we feed organized groups of tourists - there are no free tables; all tickets are sold, the boat is full because we are taking a group; there are no places, as we are hosting a group of tourists - and stuff like that.

But in fact, you can get there (and not expensive) and eat and live. It’s just that this is a business that is not designed for single travelers and everyone makes it clear with their appearance that they say take a tour or excursion escort ordered through the pilgrimage service of the monastery or some agency, so that you are included in the transport lists that are created in advance (this is how people on a meteor and ships) and left you the right to stay in a hotel on Valaam - this is the only way to come to Valaam without any problems.

In all other cases, you can also leave almost without problems and always, but you will not have any tourist services and you will not be welcomed at the pier as an honored guest. It is worth going once to understand what is at stake - then, by the way, it ceases to bother. But in my opinion, for the first trip, in order not to spoil your impression of the holy land, it is better to take any inexpensive tour(if you are interested budget holiday, then here). The main thing is that he guarantees you travel, food, housing and what else you need.

From Saint-Petersburg

There are only two passenger water stations in St. Petersburg:

From both stations, you can swim to the island of Valaam without transfers, it will take about 12-15 hours. There are inexpensive three-day cruises from: two nights on the road and one sightseeing day on the island - on the morning of the third day you will arrive back in St. Petersburg. Overnight stay is usually in the cabin of the transport on which you sailed.

They feed on the island and on the ship.

From Moscow

From here you can either just sail to St. Petersburg or buy a cruise through to Valaam (often with a stop in other cities: Mandrogi, and so on).

In the second case, Valaam will be just one of the stops. Cruises are also circular (when you are brought back to Moscow) and with a final stop at Valaam (no return trip) or in St. Petersburg; sometimes it is easier, cheaper and more convenient. The price for cruises varies from 10,000 to 250,000 rubles and depends on the duration of the trip, the comfort of the cabins and the availability additional services. Cruises from Moscow to Valaam are available at the following agencies: Infoflot, Mosturflot, Volga-Baltic travels, etc.

From Priozersk

The mooring of the Valaam Monastery in Priozersk is located at a distance of 6 km.

It can be difficult to get from the city and find it (if you are driving on your own), so I recommend that you read the information.

From the city center you can take a taxi for 200 rubles. On the way from Moscow and St. Petersburg, Priozersk is closer than, but the trip by water from here will be longer, the price is also 400 rubles higher - this applies primarily to private traders. The price for Meteors and ships in Priozersk is only slightly different from the price in Sortavala. But do not forget that the road to Sortavala also needs money, although transport runs there more often. So here you need to compare and choose based on the availability of tickets and the convenience of possible routes. I like to sail from Sortavala, because it is faster and transport runs more often.

"Meteor" runs on a schedule that is unstable. But usually it leaves at 11:00 and does not wait for latecomers. On the way - 1 hour 15 minutes. It costs 900 rubles on weekdays and 1000 rubles on weekends. Keep in mind that Meteora works with tourist groups, so tickets for them may not be on sale. Then go to Sortavala, if it is not evening time. If it is already evening, then it is better to immediately stay overnight in Priozersk, because in the evening the transport to Sortavala almost does not run; in the morning, drive from Priozersk on the Meteor - at 11:00.

Motor ship "Valaam" depart at 8:30, 9:00, 9:30 (times subject to change). On the way from 3.5 to 4.5 hours (800 rubles per person one way on weekdays and 900 rubles on weekends). Return flight at 17:00.

Vessel"Saint Nicholas" - this is the most cheap way get to Valaam. But tourists and pilgrims are not put on it, because it is a cargo ship, not a passenger one. It is usually used by the brethren of the monastery, laborers, and people who have booked rooms in a hotel on Valaam can leave. Boarding the ship is carried out strictly according to the lists and costs 350-400 rubles per person. A tourist or a pilgrim can be put on this ship if he did not have time for the rest of the transport, but it will cost about 700 rubles per person. On the way 4 hours. Now about the lists: they are the leaders of the pilgrimage service of the monastery. The brethren of the monastery are recorded in advance, the workers are recorded after they are approved for this position, the people who book the rooms check the possibility of adding themselves to the lists with the same person with whom the room is booked - they will explain everything by phone (the phone number of the hotel service is on the website of the monastery ), and the rest of the people just approach the captain and agree on the spot. He doesn't have a set schedule. Other cargo ships from Priozersk do not go.

Private vessels also carry tourists. You can negotiate with them - sometimes it comes out cheaper than the Meteor (depending on how you agree on what kind of ship, how many of you will go and depending on what kind of captain), but most often more expensive. Captains can usually be found right next to their ships; in extreme cases, you can ask people where to find the captain - I'm sure they will tell you. Ignore if your interlocutor is rude or even refuses to drive you: they prefer to drive groups. But you will definitely be able to leave.

In the evening (after 19:00) it is most difficult to leave here for Valaam, so it is worth planning a trip in the morning. My advice to you: no matter what amount you expect, take with you the amount of money at the rate of at least 1400 rubles for only one ticket. Every year, the price of travel increases by 10-15% - this fact should be taken into account when focusing on this article in your journey (today the price is relevant, but everything will change in 2018).

From Sortavala

Sortavala is the nearest city to Valaam (42 km), so a water trip from here will take the least time. All ships depart from the city pier at Pristanskaya Street, 1.

You can walk here from the city center - it is easy to find it, because everyone knows about it.

"Meteor" departs at 9:00 and 11:00 (on the way 40-50 minutes; availability of tickets must be checked on the spot). It leaves the island at 12:00 (rarely), at 15:00 and at 17:00. Sometimes there are flights departing from Sortavala at 13:00 and at 16:00 (rarely); they sail back from Valaam at 19:00 and at 19:30.

As in Priozersk, in Sortavala there may not be tickets for Meteor. And flights are often cancelled. You will either have to negotiate with the ship that has gathered the group, or wait and then still negotiate with the ship that has gathered the group. Or buy a tour to go with a group. In the summer they go almost every day. It can be from 1 to 6 flights, but it all depends on the requests of the groups.

The cost of tickets for Meteor is 1000 rubles one way per person on weekdays and 1100 rubles on weekends. You can buy a tour from the captain for about 3000 rubles per person. But it is better to purchase a tour in advance through the pilgrimage service by phone. There are different and cheaper options. I think that ordering an excursion package is convenient and profitable, because it already includes travel, the tour may include food, etc. But this is convenient for tourists who have arrived for the first time. On my second trip, I refused these services, because it's like ordering a guide to walk around the center hometown.

Motor ships go different. Basically, from 9:00 to 12:00. There hasn't been a clear timetable here for many years. It is very easy to leave, there are almost always places. A one-way ticket for one person costs 900 rubles on weekdays and 1000 rubles on weekends. Travel time - from 40 minutes to 2.5 hours, depending on the type of vessel: water-replacement ones travel longer. Motor ships travel longer than Meteors.

Private boats recruit a group of up to 6 or 12 people - you can agree on the spot. Most often, a boat ride is more expensive than a boat or Meteor, but there are exceptions. The price will depend on how you negotiate. There is no clear timetable.

Lakhdenpokhya and Pitkyaranta

From Lakhdenpokhya you can sail to Valaam on a cargo boat, having agreed with the captain.

The trip will take 40 minutes and will cost 500-700 rubles one way per person. But this is not the most popular berth, just one of the alternatives. As well as from Pitkyaranta, you can sail away for about the same cost on local ships, but there is no clear timetable and transport is rare and unstable.

How to get to Valaam in winter

Valaam is completely different in winter. Life on the island stops. In the Spaso-Priobrazhensky Monastery, only the lower church is heated - accordingly, only you can visit it. In addition, in winter, the monks take a break from the tourist season in prayer, and therefore tourists are not accepted on Valaam in winter - mostly small groups of pilgrims go there.

Although if you are not a church person, then you can still visit Valaam in winter, but you should remember that this is not the best time to travel. Of course there are no tourists, but there is no transport serving tourists. Only hovercraft.

Hovercraft

A hovercraft is a convenient means of getting around a frozen body of water in winter. On ice, it accelerates to 130 km / h, and on snow it travels at a speed of 30-40 km / h. Usually SVP from Sortavala to Valaam is about 1 hour on the way. The vessel is absolutely safe: if thin ice breaks under it, an air cushion will keep it afloat.

The season for SVP starts from January 13-15 and lasts until mid-April. The capacity of the vessel is 6 people, but you can also leave with a group of 15-17 people. The price is higher than for summer transport: an hour tour of the Ladoga skerries can reach 10,000 rubles. You can go to Valaam with the help of SVP from Sortavala (the nearest point): there, as with the summer water transport you can negotiate with the captains of the hovercraft - for about 1400 rubles (they have a parking lot next to the pier). You can also go on tour from Petrozavodsk and St. Petersburg. Various companies organize excursions in which you will be taken to the mooring site of the SVP.

I think you will like Valaam in winter!

Tourism on Valaam at different times of the year

And finally, I would like to note that the best time of the year for a trip to Valaam, of course, will be summer. In the warm season, there are cafes for tourists and pilgrims on Valaam, transport runs more often, souvenirs are sold, guides from the pilgrimage service of the monastery come to the island.

And besides, during the tourist season (from May to October), navigation works, and with the advent of cold weather, water transport stops running and getting to the mainland can be very problematic. In addition, in summer you will have the opportunity to enjoy the nature of the island and walk along its roads, contemplating the water surface and the dense crown of trees or the beauty of local architecture. But no matter what time of the year you choose for your trip, I wish you that on your trip Valaam will appear before you from its best side!

Pulkovo Airport, where Russian and international flights, located at a small distance from the city and has excellent transport accessibility.
The nearest metro station is Moskovskaya, which is connected with air harbor the following public transport routes:

1. Bus number 39, travel time - within 40 minutes, work schedule: from 5:30 to 1:30, departure gap: 12-20 minutes.
2. Express route No 39e, the journey takes 20 minutes, work schedule: from 5:25 to 0:30, exit interval: 25-30 minutes.
3. Minibus taxi No K39, also 20 minutes on the way, work schedule: from 7:00 to 23:30, departure interval 5-7 minutes.

The fare for any type of transport is 40 rubles.
The bus and minibus stop is located next to the arrivals area.

For those who live in the central part of Russia, bus and train services can serve as an alternative.

From St. Petersburg to Sortavola

Public transport operating in this direction is buses and trains.

Buses depart from the Northern Bus Station. This may be a direct route to Sortavola, or it may be the one that follows to Petrozavodsk, and the desired station is an intermediate one.
Travel time is on average 5 hours, the fare is 600 rubles.

Square at the Finland Station in St. Petersburg

As for trains, here you can take train 350A, following from the Finland Station to Kostomuksha, and after 5 hours get off at the desired station. There is also a more complex and time-consuming option - with a change of trains and a transfer in Kuznechny.
The railway station in Sortavala is located on the street. Petrova, 2.

From St. Petersburg to Priozersk

To Priozersk from the Northern capital, the path is a little shorter. An electric train from the Finland Station will bring travelers in 3 hours, while the fare will cost about 400 rubles. Required composition: 6547 to Kuznechny or directly to Priozersk.

An alternative to the train is a train to Kostomuksha.

The departure point can also be reached by bus. There are regular flights to Priozersk from the Northern bus station, as well as from the Parnassus metro station. The ticket will cost 285 rubles, the journey will take approximately 2 hours and 30 minutes.

It is worth considering that from the bus stop, as well as from the railway and bus stations, you will have to get to the pier. It is located 6 km from the central part of the town and is called "Valaam", you should definitely inform the taxi driver about this, who will take the traveler to the lake for 250 rubles.

It is important to know! The advantage is to travel through Sortavola in a larger number of meteors following to Valaam, and in Priozersk you need to clearly get to the time of departure of the Meteor - about 11:00, otherwise you will have to spend the night in the town.

Sortavola, like Priozersk, is also suitable for travelers by car, as they offer parking near the pier. The cost is 100 rubles.

To Valaam by water

Getting to the island will not work without traveling by water. Only the place of departure and the travel program can turn the trip into an exciting adventure.

You can get to Valaam from the following cities:

1. - from where they follow cruise ships with parking in Valama;
2. - motor ships depart from the River Station on the Neva, which is directly connected with Lake Ladoga;
3. Petrozavodsk - ships from Lake Onega enter Ladoga along the Svir River. It should be noted that the most popular and in demand is a trip by water from the Northern capital.

From Saint-Petersburg

You can go on an exciting journey by boat to Valaam either from the River Station of the capital, or from the Sea Passenger Station.
The journey takes about 13 hours. Such trips are often designed for several days, so they include meals on board and the island, as well as excursion support.

From Priozersk

There are several options to go to the monastery:

1. Meteor from the pier of the Valaam Monastery, which is 6 km from the center, departs on schedule. It's official. In practice, it is not stable, most often the departure takes place at 11:00 and latecomers will not be expected to board. Travel time is just over an hour. Price - 1700 rubles per person, and from June on Saturdays the cost will be 1900 rubles
2. An alternative to Meteor is the motor ship "OM". It leaves several times a day. Ticket price - from 1450 rubles, and on summer Saturdays - 1600 rubles / person. Here the travel time is very different - about 4 hours.
3. The cargo ship "Saint Nicholas" - officially it does not transport travelers, it works to transport monastic or laborers, as well as those who have reserved a place in a hotel on the island. It will be possible to get on the ship only if the person is listed in special list, or if the pilgrim did not have time for all of the above transport. In this case, landing will cost twice as much. You will have to spend 4 hours on the way.

An alternative to regular transport is to negotiate with the captain of one of the private boats standing here. As a rule, not all of them are friendly and immediately agree to persuasion, but it’s worth a try, however, it is unlikely to be cheaper than a meteor ride.

From Sortavola

The pier is located on the street. Pristanskaya, 1.

Ways to get to the island:

1. Meteor - has, as a rule, 2 regular flights at 9 and 11 o'clock, sometimes there are 1-2 flights in the afternoon. Vessels can make more exits if a significant number of groups are recruited, only to get on them independent tourist would be quite problematic. The price of a one-way ticket is from 1200 rubles (from June 1300 if you plan to travel on Saturday). In the absence of tickets, you can negotiate with the captain, but it will cost three times more.
2. Motor ships - make more trips than meteors, and this is their main advantage. Ticket price - from 900 rubles, travel time from 1 to 2.5 hours.
3. Private boats do not have a schedule, they depart as a group of 6-15 people is recruited, the price depends on the ability to negotiate.

On Valaam in winter

Cold time is not popular for visiting Valaam. Indeed, of all the buildings of the Spaso-Preobrazhensky Monastery, only one is heated - the lower church, which means that only it is available for visiting.

Another aspect: winter is the time when the monks rest in prayer, which means that the island accepts only small groups of pilgrims, while others will have limited access to the shrine.

In winter, Valaam can be reached by a ship equipped with an air cushion. On a frozen lake, a ship can accelerate to more than 100 km / h, and on a snow cover, go more slowly.

From Sortavala to Valaam, such a vessel takes 1 hour. The capacity of such vehicle- 6-12 people.

The season starts from mid-January.

The fare is about 1500 rubles, the calculations will have to be made with the captain at the pier.

What else solo travelers need to know

1. Valaam is directed to group excursions. So the solo traveler will often hear that there are no meteor tickets, no hotel room, or no place to dine. Going to the island, be ready to turn on all your eloquence in order to achieve what you want.
2. Constant rise in prices. Be prepared that not all prices listed in the article will be the same at the time of your trip. A popular tourist destination, which is Valaam, contributes to the fact that prices increase annually by 10-15 percent, plus they increase noticeably in the summer - best time for rest on Valaam.
3. Even if the tourist travels independently, it is recommended to order a guide service. For 600-900 rubles, it will not only be possible to learn much more about the shrine, but also to understand certain rules that prevail on the island.

When traveling independently, it is best to stock up on a map of the island while still on the pier, because otherwise there is a risk of losing sight of many hidden attractions. For those wishing to stay on the island longer than one day, monastery hotels are open. There are also souvenir monastic shops on the island. Going on an independent trip to Valaam in 2019, you should remember the need to comply with the dress code and other rules applied on the island.

Valaam from the air - in the video:

NOT ONLY PILGRIMNS COME TO VALAAM:

Expecting to purchase an ordinary secular tour to Valaam in an ordinary St. Petersburg travel agency, the author of these lines went there. Imagine my amazement when at the meeting point of the tourist group on the day of departure to the legendary archipelago, a guide in a headscarf and with a badge "Pilgrimage Service of the Valaam Monastery" was waiting for us. With such a completely non-secular guide, on one of the weekdays of the Dormition Fast, our one-day trip to Valaam began.

The "travel information" offered by the guide boiled down to a story about the temples of the Russian Orthodox Church of the Moscow Patriarchate on the Priozerskaya highway and brief digression in the history of Karelia. So we learned that this territory was constantly passing from the hands of the Orthodox population of Rus', who did a lot of good for it, to the Swedish and Finnish Lutherans, who endlessly spoiled everything here. Then the conversation suddenly switched to the Bishop of Novgorod, who "appeared in Novgorod already in the 9th century" (before the Baptism of Rus'!), when the power of this ancient city stretched over the lands "from the upper reaches of the Volga to the shores of the Arctic Ocean." IN tourist buses you can’t get up, so I had to swallow the astonished question: “Who did Novgorod rule on the shores of the Arctic Ocean in the 9th century?”

In the meantime, the time has come for a "domestic stop". For this, the "Pilgrimage Service of the Valaam Monastery" uses the ROC MP Church in Saperny. Tourists were told that there is a "community of the monastic type, which is engaged in the treatment of drug addicts, not using a single pill, only occupational therapy and spiritual revival." While the tour guide was praising the "excellent results of this community," the bus pulled up. “There is a list of the Konevets Icon of the Mother of God in the temple, you can light candles, and at the same time go to the toilet,” the guide explained pedagogically.

On the territory of the temple, we saw the perfect order: flower beds, paved paths and even sculptures. In the corner there is a wooden house - a toilet. In the house there is an untreated tree and a hole in it. Now imagine what an untreated tree turns into, on which crowds of tourists go to the toilet for months? Young girls could not stand it, deciding that they would "be patient" - and ran away.

In the meantime, the bus was approaching Priozersk, which still retains some traces of a prosperous Swedish-Finnish past. It turned out that we can write notes in advance that we want to submit to Valaam, because "their cost is included in the cost of the excursion." I thought I misheard...

Before the tourist group had time to enter the pier in Priozersk, a gloomy man came out from somewhere and made a remark to one of the smoking tourists: "You can't smoke here. This is the territory of the monastery." It got cold inside. I immediately imagined how you stand on bus stop or at railway station, and they come up to you and say: "You can't stand here (sit, read, laugh ...). This is the territory of the monastery."

At the pier, we were the first to meet the ship (in my opinion, "Saint Sergius"), into which the workers loaded packages of beer, and behind it was a meteor for tourists - "Hegumen Nazariy". In general, the entire Ladoga fleet, at least in the Priozersk region, belongs to the Valaam stauropegial monastery. Hence the names of the courts - "Patriarch Alexy II", "Reverend Seraphim", etc., as well as curious dialogues between ship crews: "Today who will go - Alexy II or Seraphim?" Tourists organized "through the pilgrimage service" were planted quickly and without question. And then came the turn of the unorganized, who for some reason did not use the services of the pilgrimage service. Two middle-aged women in long skirts and headscarves were loaded immediately, and the mother of a five-year-old child in trousers begged for a long time to be taken. At first they did not take her without explanation, and then the young woman nevertheless managed to persuade the captain. So much joy in the eyes of getting to the island, like this mother of a little boy, then I didn’t manage to see anyone for the whole day.

Another guide was waiting for us on the island. We immediately learned what not to do here: you can’t take pictures of the clergy, in the monastery you can’t take pictures at all and talk on a mobile phone. You can't leave the path yet. This was due to the fact that tourists trampled rare vegetation.

First, the group was taken to a 10-minute concert in the gate church, after which four beautifully singing young people from the professional St. Petersburg choir "Valaam" (among them an honored artist of Russia) sold their CDs themselves.

The tour moved along the wall of the monastery. The more words were said about how "the monastery takes care of the local residents and took care of their provision", the more amazement was caused by the view of the common corridor of the locals, which is not separated from the passage in the wall, where crowds of tourists walk daily, not even a thin door separates . It seemed that the monastery was literally "crying out" to the locals: get out! Most of these residents are housed on the first and second floors of the four-storey "Winter" hotel, most of which has already been occupied by the monastery. So, on the fourth floor there are guest rooms (rather comfortable) and bedrooms for pilgrims for 10 people each, on the third - mixed with pilgrimage rooms and refectories - Valaam secondary school, where about 40 local children study. The school is scheduled to close in the near future.

Meanwhile, there was no time to look around. The tour proceeded at a walking pace. There was a feeling that tourists who turned out to be pilgrims were being led somewhere under escort. When, on the way to Nikolsky Island, one of the group tried to approach the water to take a photo, the guide shouted: "No! There are very strict rules here!"

Then we managed to find out that, according to local legends, wild tourists "trampled 8 species of orchids." As a result of attempts to make inquiries, it turned out that orchids really grow on Valaam. Very rare and only deep in the forest. But certainly not 8 species. There are no northern roadside orchids in nature. It was hard to shake off the idea that caring for nature was an excuse to control the flow of people.

Then the tourists decided to just make beautiful pictures without leaving the path. The pious tour guide lost her patience: "Comrades! We must not stop! Other groups are coming behind us!" Guides of the pilgrimage service are not animals at all. These are people who are terribly afraid of breaking the rules set by their employers.

What about tourists? They paid almost 4,000 to practice walking along Valaam with a guide for several hours in a row.

When the group finally entered the monastery itself, we were met at the gate by two good fellows in black ties - "security guards". They looked at the feet of the female representatives with great attention. If they ended up not only in trousers, but also in a skirt, the length of which was at least 1 cm longer than the knees, they were sent to wrap themselves in panels sewn in the form of a wrap skirt, where yellow five-pointed stars were depicted on a blue background.

The first thing you can see when entering the monastery is the bust of Alexy II. It is impossible to get around the cathedral - everything is blocked off. You can only enter the church, look at the latest icons and submit notes.

As a result, 4 out of 30 people in the group decided to go to the last goal of our excursion - the Igumen cemetery. The rest no longer had the strength.

The heroic and very responsible guide told everything that was required, and for 4 people, and the most persistent ones hurried back to the pier to catch the meteor.

It was impossible to believe that you would be very happy to leave here. In your life, in which you yourself can decide which way to look and what to photograph. And where can you get off the trail. It's still possible.

Alexandra Shalimova, for "Portal-Credo.Ru"

For all questions about organized tourist trips, you should contact it there. Service site http://vp.valaam.ru/. The desire to stay on the island for more than one day must also be coordinated with the pilgrimage service.

The most common way to get to Valaam is tourist trip on the ship from St. Petersburg. This method is the most expensive of all existing, but at the same time the most comfortable and simple. The cost varies, the specific amount can be found on the website of the pilgrimage service or when ordering an excursion to Valaam. The prices include meals, the road on the ship, where you will be allocated a separate cabin, as well as excursion and entertainment.

There are also cheaper tours that do not provide accommodation in cabins and meals on board the ship. In most cases, the ship travels to, you spend the day on the island, and return back the next night. The cruise route to Valaam can be combined with visiting other places: the island of Kanevets, Svirstroy, on which Alexander-Svirsky is located, are sometimes included in the excursion program and others. Specify details when ordering a tour.

From St. Petersburg you can get to Valaam "Meteor". An organized trip includes an early morning departure, a stay on the island (approximately 8 hours) and a return journey. The one-way trip takes only 4 hours, but the conditions on the Meteor are not so comfortable. In addition, this is a rather noisy way of moving on water, so many people prefer a boat.

You can get not from St. Petersburg itself, but from the cities Leningrad region located closer to Valaam, for example, from Priozersk. "Meteor" also goes from there, the journey takes about an hour.

Sources:

• Valaam pilgrim
• meteor on valam

The Valaam archipelago, located in the northern part of Ladoga Island, is more than 20 km away from the mainland and unites more than 50 islands. The largest of the islands of the archipelago is Valaam Island. The surrounding nature alone is enough to turn Valaam into a place of pilgrimage for thousands and thousands of tourists.

Instruction

One of the most comfortable and, as a result, the most expensive ways is a tourist cruise on a ship. The ship departs from St. Petersburg with the arrival directly on the island of Valaam. Additionally, you will need to take care of getting from Moscow to St. Petersburg, which in general is not a problem - you have at your disposal express trains, regular trains, bus routes departing from Moscow to St. Petersburg and back several times a day.

A boat trip usually takes a night on the way, a day on the island and another night on the way in the opposite direction. The fare includes accommodation in a cabin, meals, a number of excursion routes on the island and recreational activities on the boat.

A faster and more economical option is to travel on a water boat (as a light single-deck boat is called) in 1 day. Departure will be, as in the previous case, from St. Petersburg, here on the way you will spend 4 hours in each direction, and about 8 hours of free time will be left to get to know the island. The disadvantage of this trip option is the noise of the boat, which is very tiring for a four-hour voyage.

Another option for tourists to come to Valaam is especially popular in the spring and autumn, when standard trips from St. Petersburg have already been discontinued. In May, or you can get to Valaam from the city of Sortavala, where, for example, Oktyabrskaya leads from Moscow Railway. From St. Petersburg - No. 350 departs on odd numbers from the Ladonezhsky railway station. Electric train from northern capital goes to the village of Kuznechnoye, then to the city of Sortavala. Departure daily from the Finland Station at 16.32.

It is also possible to get to Sartovaly from Moscow or St. Petersburg by intercity bus or car, but such a journey is tiring due to the length (between St. Petersburg and the city is about 300 km), besides, the car will have to be left in the city for the entire duration of the walk along Valaam. In fairness, it must be said that there is a guarded and quite large parking lot near the pier.

From the city pier to the island can be reached by regular boat on Mondays and Fridays at 16.00 or 17.00. Travel time 2.5 hours. You can use the local sightseeing boat "Meteor", it runs almost every day, but without a clear schedule. Travel time 1 hour. Estimated cost is 700 rubles.

In Sortavala, you can also use the services of the yacht club, which is located near the well-known Piipun-Piha hotel in the city. Vessels depart from the city pier every two hours to Valaam, there are also small carriers, most of which work either through numerous agencies or independently, without, however, providing tourists with special guarantees of safety on the water.

A trip to "Northern Athos" can also be made from the city of Priozersk, Leningrad Region, which can be reached by train from the Finland Station - direction to Kuznechnoye - from the Devyatkino station or from the Severny bus station, Devyatkino metro station by bus number 859 .

You can get from Priozersk to Valaam only by water from the Valaam pier and only during the navigation season, which begins in May and ends in October. The cargo ship "Saint Nicholas" makes trips until the end of November, but officially does not take passengers.

The monastic republic also has a specialized pilgrimage service, which also organizes trips to the island. For example, you can fly to the monastery monastery with their help by helicopter. A one-day such tour will cost about three hundred thousand rubles, a two-day one - 450,000.

Sources:

• valam how to get

IN fresh waters Lake Ladoga located rocky archipelago, consisting of a large group of granitic and diabase islands. Unique in its beauty, the Valaam archipelago is considered to be the main attraction of Karelia.

Valaam - the harmony of nature and architecture

The Valaam archipelago is also called "Northern Athos". It represents a monastic empire, with a way of life, law, hierarchy preserved from ancient times. The landscape architecture of the island is in harmony with the pristine nature.

Among the sights of Valaam, which tourists should definitely visit, are Spaso-Preobrazhensky monastery, where the beauty of Russian architecture is presented in an unusual combination of color and architecture. The top, the color of heavenly blue, harmoniously combines with the red bottom. A three-tiered bell tower completes the entire architectural composition.

Cells-sketes were spread all over the island, where hermit monks retired from the bustle of the world:
- All Saints (White) Skete. Located on Skitsky Island. It looks like a snow-white fortress with pointed towers;
- Ilyinsky. Made in the Russian style, reminiscent of a rustic frame;
- Nicholas the Wonderworker;
- John the Baptist;
- Konevsky;
- Abraham of Rostov. Restoration work is currently underway;
- Complex "Northern Jerusalem". Includes buildings of the Resurrection (Red) and Gethsemane (Yellow) sketes;
- Smolensky;
- St. Vladimir.

Znamenskaya (Royal) Chapel
The roof of the marble chapel is decorated with a medallion with a commemorative inscription stating that Emperor Alexander ΙΙ visited Valaam in 1858. On the left side of the road are the Spassky Gates leading to the internal buildings of the monastery.

Those wishing to make an additional excursion can visit the Igumen cemetery. You can go down to it by passing under the arched bell tower.

Mannerheim line
addicted military history can see the preserved fortifications, which are a whole complex.

Ascension Chapel
There is a lake south of the Gethsemane Skete. The right bank of Malaya Nikonovskaya Bay is decorated with granite worship cross. At the very top, the Ascension Chapel with 5 chapters was erected.

The forest path will lead to the Konevsky lakes - Igumenskoye, Ossievo, Mustojarvi. On the monastery farm, located on the shore of about. Sisjarvi, tourists are offered treats here.

It is possible to make a water excursion along the river. Ladoga around the island.

Memo to the tourist

On the monastery territory, women must be in a skirt.

Only men are allowed in the White Skete (All Saints), the exception is the feast of All Saints.

It is forbidden to drink alcohol, smoking.

The cleanest air, the beauty of pristine nature, architecture will not leave anyone indifferent. Impressions from visiting Valaam will remain for a long time.

- not only the lot of Orthodox pilgrims. Of interest here are both beautiful churches and amazingly beautiful nature - lakes with warm water, pine forest, sheer cliffs.

You can go to Valaam with excursion group and you can travel on your own.

How to get to the island?

There are several routes for independent travel.

• . Every day (with rare exceptions) the ship "Valaam" departs from here. Departure time - 9.30. Duration - three and a half hours. Another possibility is a trip on a "meteor". It departs at 11 days, but here it will be necessary to agree separately.
• . From here, on Monday and Friday, a regular boat departs. The duration of the trip is two and a half hours. A sightseeing boat also runs from here, but it does not have a schedule. Tickets can be purchased directly after boarding.
• There are also cruise ships. You cannot buy a ticket in advance. They start selling empty seats almost before sending.

What you need to know

If you do not buy return tickets in advance, then there is a high probability that you will have to spend the night on Valaam. The fact is that it is tourist (organized) groups that have the advantage of boarding motor ships. And only then pilgrims and "wild" tourists can climb on board. If there is no ticket, then there may simply not be enough space. Alternatively, you can conclude an agreement with the owner of the motorboat.

Do not forget that Valaam is an island. Ladoga is often very restless, and in the event of a storm that has begun, it will not be possible to get out of the island.

If you wish, you can go on a trip to Valaam by car. Price ferry crossing reaches fifteen thousand rubles only in one direction. The option is not cheap, but extremely attractive.

Camping on the island is strictly prohibited, since Valaam is a nature reserve. With great luck, you can get a room in one of the two local hotels.

Do not forget that the territory of Valaam is a functioning monastery. That is why you need to dress appropriately. Women must wear headscarves and long skirts. Men only wear trousers, shorts are prohibited.

There are no shops here, so you need to bring food and water with you.

Video and photography are prohibited in many places. That is why, in order to avoid unpleasant situations, you should always ask permission.

Rest on Valaam means sightseeing. Therefore, you will have to walk a lot. That is why it is necessary to take care of comfortable shoes.