You can write a lot about Georgia for a long time. This text is about three Georgian rolling places: Gudauri, Mestia, Gordezi. Pros, cons, logistics, prices, conclusions. About tourist attraction, border, pass, customs and personal feelings in the following texts. Here is only what applies to skating.

I came to Georgia after the Alps, Elbrus and Cheget. I ride behind the slopes, but I don’t really like walking up, so I’m always close to the ski lift. I can't say anything about the quantity, quality, length of the tracks. About long tours with guides too.

GUDAURI

The closest, highest and most expensive resort. It's the resort. Enough housing, enough restaurants and related services. Gudauri is the most popular Georgian resort, for which there is a price tag.

Pros:
+ Long season
+ Lots of off-piste
+ Low price to the ski pass
+ Powder days!!!
+ Minimal avalanche danger
+ It is very difficult to get lost and move to the wrong place

Minuses:
- Expensive housing. Finding a house for adequate money and walking in ski boots to the ski lift is a lot of work. No luck - you walk a kilometer along the road with cars. Or pay for ski in / ski out
- There are a lot of people on weekends and holidays, but the queues are small
- Apres ski at limited budget missing as a class
- The most party place is a supermarketwith cooking at the gas station

All this dull enumeration does not matter if it started to SNOW. Because the SNOW there is such that the head explodes with delight. Dry, weightless down to the waist, flooding the mask. It's a pity the slope is not enough to survive and not burrow into the blizzard.

SNOW besides the swimming experience also means some problems if you are traveling by car. After all, the pass is most likely closed and you will need to ride until it is opened. You can check the info along the way at https://vlars.ru or from the locals.

It is very convenient to come to Gudauri from Russia by car. The Georgian military road is incredibly beautiful, the distances are not significant. For 2 weeks of vacation, you can catch Elbrus / Cheget and here.

When all the puff was rolled out, and this is 2-3 days, without new snowfalls it becomes quite tough: bumps, low temperature, exposition mountains. The snow loosens a bit in the afternoon, but you have to traverse very far on the flat to get out of the trenches. On the slopes, slalom skiing is good. On the board is more than sad. There is a snowpark, as it were, but it consists of a couple of strange large flights with almost no acceleration, I never went there.

Since Gudauri is close to the border, you can plan a skiing day and a trip to Russia in the evening. We did just that. Ride at the entrance to Georgia and at the exit. Savings in two expensive resort overnight stays, minus - it is not visible in the dark beautiful road. By the way, I don’t advise you to live in neighboring villages in order to save money: this is a mountain road and the efforts spent on it, on loading and unloading, are not worth the difference in money.

MESTIA

Mestia is a very remote mountain village, where as many as 2 slopes have been equipped in the vicinity. So remote that a minibus-helicopter flies from Tbilisi for some quite adequate money. Adequate because otherwise you will have to cut almost all day on mountain roads. Beautiful, yes, but still not always useful.

So, two slopes: Hatsvali And Tetnuldi.

Hatsvali- a fairly ordinary mountain with a slight drop. Skiers will love the speed and terrain. Theoretically between the tracks - Christmas trees with a good slope. In practice, instead of snow under the Christmas trees, there was concrete, for which the board completely refused to cling. For half a day we tried to set speed records, but some local teenagers on skis were faster, which was a little annoying.

Tetnuldi- a new, fresh juicy mountain. Just opened, three and a half people. FREE riding. Was. Have you seen somewhere that the lift was spinning for free all season to test and attract people? So that. The diagram looks promising. I think the 16-17 season will be great if they launch the second phase. We got the bottom line at the end of the season. It was hot, little snow, very little slope. But downstairs they put a stall with shawarma, hot dogs and drinks. The sun warmed pleasantly, the lift was completely empty. It was warm and pleasant.

Everything is fine? And here it is not. You live in Mestia, in the village. Both mountains can be reached by car. Only four-wheel drive with normal ground clearance will drive into Tetnuldi. Local taxis on Delica. For the second time, you will feel sorry for the car and you will use the GAZ ski bus. Yes, the ski bus is a watch based on GAZ, slow, nauseating and most uncomfortable. It delivers staff back and forth, well, you can ride. They say that in winter you can go to Mestia on your own, but you need to know how, it’s not obvious at all, and the river flows.

The road to Mestia is very mountainous, very serpentine, long, and somewhat rocky. But beautiful, of course, and very diverse. At some point you can see the valley and the sea. And Batumi, it seems.

And why all these inconveniences and waste of time? And then. Mestia is Svaneti, such a patriarchal region. Watchtowers, villages, cattle breeding, people... People. People are like you have been for a long time, and maybe you have never seen.

Apres ski in at its best. Of course, there are no clubs, but there are cafes, bars and just taking a walk. Housing an incredible amount and at ridiculous prices. Accommodation comes with homemade food for more than attractive money. Be sure to visit Koshki bar. Don't expect cool beer, just ask for food, wine or chacha. And talk to people.

Pros:
+ Cheap and varied accommodation
+ Plenty of eating and drinking establishments
+ Real harsh mountains around
+ Public

Minuses:
- Far from Tbilisi
- Skating is not interesting (as of 2016)
- The season is shorter than in Gudauri

GODERDZI

This is such a strange place that it is not clear how this can be. There is no direct road from Tbilisi. I did not believe it, and we did not reach the Goderdzi pass for a couple of kilometers, having practiced until night with a shovel, jack and stones. Then we drank energy and went there, but with a detour of 500 km. This is clearly visible on the map. Interesting experience, but not worth the ride.

Goderdzi is located as far from civilization as Mestia. But if in Mestia there is a branch of this very civilization in the form of people, food and fun, then in Goderdzi there is nothing but a hotel and a lift. The hotel has a dining room, poor food. Opposite is a stall-wagon with booze and canned food. Take some Georgian with you, otherwise the prices will be too touristy.

We were extremely unlucky with the weather: cold, stormy, no visibility. The top of the lift was never turned on. Oh yes, there were 5 of us there. And the three of us and the servants rode. By the way, a big respect to the guys from the technical staff who shared food with us and brought us to our senses after we were at 10 pm, beautiful ones, looked around the clay shit in search of a restaurant.

Since the mountain was hidden almost all the time by a snowstorm, I won’t say anything about it. The lower part is disgustingly flat, even the skier was spitting along the track. If you go exactly under the lift, you will come across funny shepherds' barns and a couple of hills with trees. But the plane is such that on the second day we fell into depression, visited the stall, and the rest of the day it, depression, dispersed. And in the morning, realizing that the top would never be turned on, they dumped it to the sea.

We still didn’t understand if the road was being cleaned, but we drove in places at the limit of the crossover’s capabilities on standard tires. We recommend calling the mountain and asking how they are doing. They speak Russian, but it's not immediately obvious on the phone =)

Perhaps in good weather it was necessary to take a guide and ride the backcountry. And everything would be great. But no, it's not.

Pros:
+ Possibility to get stuck on the road and test your SUV
+ Epic dam building
+ The ability to wonder why people climbed so high and live so sadly

Minuses:
- Nasty long road
- Flat at the bottom, steep at the top
- The complete absence of apres ski. We hang out in the room.

BAKURIANI

But we did not go to Bakuriani. In March-April it is already too warm there. This is the oldest and most popular resort. We decided it wouldn't be interesting. Maybe in vain, next time you can see.

CONCLUSIONS

It is a must to go to Georgia. Ride, walk, swim - it doesn't matter. Necessarily. Incredible friendliness, crazy hospitality, delicious food, excellent wine. And mountains.

With proper planning, the budget for Georgia will be comparable to our resorts. Except Sochi, Sochi is more expensive. Food costs like ours, accommodation in Booking.com and Airbnb for every taste. I highly recommend driving your own car and having some time to spare. Firstly, to stop wherever you like, and secondly, so as not to be nervous if the pass is closed.

About the pass and the border in the next text about Georgia tourist. In short, everything is easier than it seems. But better four-wheel drive or chains.

Georgian gasoline is more expensive, but not critical. Prices in cafes and restaurants are lower than in Russia, and the quality of products is incomparably higher.

If someone needs numbers, I don't remember them. Everyone has their own budget. I have something like 2500 rubles a day for everything. Avoiding expensive cafes and outright trash like a hostel for 8 people. So a two-week trip costs 35,000 rubles, plus or minus booze and souvenirs. Georgia fits into this budget quite well.

There are no photos from the mountain and never will be. There are plenty of them on the web. Pictures with my feelings can be found on VKontakte and in the following text.

Svaneti - a mountainous region in Georgia - is located on its picturesque territory of the ski center Hatsvali (Hatsvali). It is located at an altitude of 1500 m above sea level. But the tracks themselves are much higher. In the Mestia region, Hatsvali is the “youngest” among the resorts, it is only 5 years old.

Funding for its construction came from the state budget, so the center began to work after 6 months. The development of Hatsvali is still ongoing and with each ski season new mountain slopes are created and opened.

Ski season and climate

The subtropical climate causes a lot of precipitation, snow cover in winter is plentiful. The average January temperature is +6°C. Ski season: December-April.

Characteristics of Hatsvali

General indicators:

• the most low point resort - 1,865 m;
• the highest point is 2,347 m;
• average height difference - 480 m;
• number of tracks - 3;
• the length of the green, simplest route - 700 m;
• the length of the blue (the longest) route is 2,600 m;
• the length of the red route is 1,900 m;
• the number of lifts - 3, of which 2 tows (600 and 800 meters each) and 1 four-seat (1,462 m long);
• the trails are illuminated at night;
• there are freeride zones;
• ski equipment and equipment rental service;
• instructor training services;
• children can learn to ski at the Mestia ski school;
• rescue team, which was organized and trained by experienced French specialists.

Since the resort is new, the number of runs is still small, and their complexity is not designed for professionals.

But on the other hand, freeride zones, as tourists note, are very spacious and run through the most beautiful places.

Additional sports services

Hatsvali has some amazing backcountry and ski touring trails, trails and trails for horseback riding.

These paths will lead the tourist to the mysterious and beautiful mountainous region of the Caucasus, to the peaks of Tetnuldi or Ushba.

Reference: "Backcountry" and "skitouring" are new sports directions in snowboarding and skiing when the ascent to the top of the slope is carried out on foot, and not on a lift. It is a combination of hiking mountain tourism and skiing from the slopes.

Ski lifts are designed for both adults and children. At the chair mechanism, which raises to the upper station in 10 minutes, throughput is 1,000 people per hour. And while there are not too many tourists here, queues are not peculiar to the resort.

Among the accommodation options for a guest in Hatsvali there are several hotels (the most popular is Hatsvali) and about 20 guesthouses (guest houses).

Living conditions and hotel service are different, as are prices. And yet, tourists give preference to guest houses, mainly because of the noticeable cheapness.

Prices for ski-pass, accommodation and services

• The cost of a ski-pass is approximately 20 lari, which is equal to $9. If you buy a subscription for several days, the resort will kindly provide a discount.
• Hotels accommodate in a double room and two meals a day for 240 GEL ($ 100) per day. There are prices and higher, with more luxurious rooms and extended service conditions. Budget rooms are also available. Their prices vary from 120 to 190 lari ($50-80).
• Guest houses are much cheaper: for 1 person from 55 GEL ($ 23) per night, with two meals a day.
• The cost of learning to ski with an instructor is 20 GEL per hour. The price for 1 day is 50 GEL.
• Ski and snowboard rental - 25 GEL for 1 day.
• Transfer to the ski lift and back costs 120 GEL for a six-seater car.

To Hatsvali additional services not so much. There are several restaurants, bars, cafes, souvenir shops and shops, hotels provide massage, spa services, there are swimming pools, hamams, baths, saunas.

There are cafes at the upper and lower lift stations where you can warm up with a glass of hot, warming mulled wine.

Entertainment

Hatsvali Hotel has a large restaurant serving a variety of cuisines. Although mostly traditional Georgian recipes. Tourists here first of all try Georgian shish kebab.

If you come to Hatsvali, be sure to go to Mestia. This city is only 8 km.

The Mestian hotel "Tetnuldi" conducts an interesting "rite": a fire is kindled in the central hall in a stone pedestal. This creates an atmosphere of comfort, romance and sincerity.

The highlight of the resort and the entire region of Svaneti has become the local unique architecture.

The centuries-old Svan towers, breathing the grandeur and pride of the people of Georgia, attract attention.

How to get to Hatsvali

In Georgia, the work of transport rarely follows schedules and order, which gives tourists a lot of adventure.

Svaneti, where Hatsvali (Mestia) is located, is a remote region. You can get to the resort in the following ways:

• by plane from Tbilisi or Kutaisi airports;
• others ground transport through the city of Zugdidi.

Tbilisi - Mestia.

1. The plane from the capital flies three times a week. It departs from Natakhtari Airport, near Tbilisi. The cost of a plane ticket to Mestia is 65 GEL (in 1 direction).
2. Early morning minibuses at the airport depart as the bus fills up. Ticket price - from 8 to 12 lari.
3. Night train and bus departing from Tbilisi will take you to Zugdidi, from where you can get to Mestia.

Kutaisi - Mestia, Batumi - Mestia.

Minibuses depart from Batumi and Kutaisi airports for Mestia. Their schedule is coordinated with the time of flights. Ticket price - 25 GEL. You can also go through Zugdidi, where buses go more often.

Zugdidi as a connecting point.

In Zugdidi, at the bus station next to the Svan tower, all buses going to Mestia stop until noon. You can also hire a taxi here.

Of course, you can pre-order a comfortable transfer to the resort from the desired airport.

You can fly to Mestia by helicopter from Tbilisi for 37 GEL. From Mestia to Hatsvali there is a beautiful road, but public transport doesn't drive. Desperate daredevils walk.

To do this, we go to the road leading to the Ushguli community. Then we pass the museum of Svaneti and after a kilometer of the way we meet a turn to the right - this is the road to Hatsvali. Sometimes on the way there are rides that are not averse to throwing a tourist.

You can rent a car, but in winter and spring time need an SUV. Since there is a lot of snow on the roads in this area.

Housing prices in Mestia in winter

Indicative prices - for New Year housing can be a little more expensive, by the end of the season a little cheaper. Two types of housing are popular in Mestia: guesthouses and hotels. There are no "star" hotels here. Hostels in the usual format too. Apartments, rather, are called floors in residential buildings or adjacent rooms, sometimes with a separate entrance. There are no apartments in block houses at all. Nevertheless, there is a choice - both in terms of comfort level, and in the design of the premises, and in terms of price tag.

Guesthouses:

Double or multi-bed accommodation in a Georgian house. As a rule, the rooms are isolated (for example, two-, three- and four-bed rooms), and the amenities are shared on the floor. But the rule is not ironclad. In accommodation options called "guesthouse" there are one or two rooms with a private bathroom - you need to specify when booking. Guesthouses have a more "home" atmosphere. For lovers of immersion in the local culture, the most the best option accommodation.

• Only with breakfast: 10$-15$ per person per night
• With two meals a day: 20$-30$ per person per day

Hotels

Rooms for two, three, four people with private facilities. Hotels, as a rule, differ from guesthouses in a less homely atmosphere and the presence of common neutral (not together with the owners) recreation areas.

• Only with breakfast: 25$-30$ per person per night
• With two meals a day: $30-40 per person per day

Mon August 10, 2015 14:54

What will impress and disappoint in the new ski resort of Georgia? - Photo report and reflections of Marc Benois before the opening of the resort.

For three winters in a row, Mark Benoit flew to Svaneti from France for ski touring and heliskiing with the Flory Kern company, and he was impressed by the opening opportunities of a new resort on the slopes of Tetnuldi..

...Tetnuldi - in a couple of years there will be tens of thousands of skiers and boarders here. Do you want to share your impressions with them when you stand elbow to elbow with them in line for the lift, or do you prefer to have your own experience, perhaps the most unique and unforgettable ski experience of your life? If you choose the latter, you definitely need to visit the Tetnuldi resort this winter.

- Why Tetnuldi?

It seems that new stars and galaxies in the sky are now opening more often than new ski resorts on the planet. Only four new ski resorts have been announced in recent years - one each in England, North America, Russia and South Korea. All other mountainous territories on the planet suitable for these purposes have been developed for a long time - in Europe, for example, almost all the now popular ski resorts were operating in the middle of the last century.

In the place where the Greater Caucasus Range is most impressive with the height and splendor of the mountains, in the mountainous region of Svaneti in Georgia, on the northwestern slopes of Mount Tetnuldi, surrounded by eternal glaciers, Development Tetnuldi LLC is completing the construction of a new ski resort with state money - for these purposes Georgia allocated 40 million euros. The website of the Tetnuldi resort announces the opening of the Tetnuldi resort in December 2015.

Tetnuldi - the new "Mecca of freeride"

They speak a language that Google has never even heard of., simply because this language does not have its own written language, but here everyone speaks a little bit of English and not bad in Russian.

On the very first day, you will have friends with whom you will communicate for the rest of your life, because there is still the concept of true friendship. Here you will be welcomed by the Svans - the highlanders inhabiting this mountainous region. The Svans will meet you, give you drink, feed you, help you with everything and then let you go home, for a short time. Because you will definitely come back here.

Another factor that can be discouraging in the first days in Svaneti is another passage of time Here. In the beginning, you will often glance at the clock, trying to be on time somewhere or not being late, trying to follow some kind of schedule or routine invented only by you. All in vain - there is no schedule here, except for the time of inclusion cable car. At first, you will even be angry at the slowness and sluggishness of the Svans, and then at your vanity, which prevented you from enjoying your stay in Svaneti from the first minutes.

In short, if you do not expect SPA services, European service, high hotel standards from a holiday in Tetnuldi, a trip to Svaneti will become an amazing journey in terms of beauty and impressions. And, importantly, - it's all worth more than the money you spend

Travel to Svaneti in winter- fertile ground for all kinds of bloggers and photographers. Their first reports about Tetnuldi will blow up the Internet, videos - YouTube, and their friends will simply envy. Not to mention that after skiing in Tetnuldi everyone will feel like a real cool Big Mountain Rider and will no longer be able to ride on boring slopes.

When you return and show the pictures to your friends and family, while drinking the brought chacha, Sarajishvili brandy or donated wine, you will definitely say meaningfully, raising your eyebrow - “ This is Georgia, baby!».

See you at the opening of Tetnuldi!

Marc Benois, specially for the site