Sakhalin is the largest of the islands located off the eastern coast of the Soviet Union: its area is about 76,000 km 2. Among other islands, Sakhalin occupies the second place in area, Sakhalin separates the Sea of ​​Okhotsk from the Sea of ​​Japan, stretching strictly along the meridian, almost 948 km with a maximum width in the middle part 160 km and minimal on the Okha Isthmus (6 km) and on the isthmus Belt - 27 km. Its northern point is Cape Elizabeth (54°25'), and its southern point is Cape Crillon (45°54'). It is separated from the mainland of Asia by the Tatar Strait, the narrowest part of which is only 7.5 meters wide. km- is called the Nevelskoy Strait.

In the north and south of Sakhalin ends with numerous large and small peninsulas. In the north, near the Schmidt Peninsula, there are two capes - Mary and Elizabeth. Between the mainland and the western part of the Schmidt Peninsula there is a large bay - Sakhalin. In the southwest of Sakhalin ends with the Krillonsky Peninsula, and in the southeast - with the Terpeniya Peninsula, which closes one of the largest bays - the Gulf of Patience from the east.

The island was created by the Tertiary orogeny and young Quaternary movements. The largest orographic elements coincide with geotectonic structures. Sakhalin has two mountain systems, stretching parallel to each other along the coastlines: the West Sakhalin and East Sakhalin mountains, separated by the Tym-Poronai valley.

The West Sakhalin Mountains stretch from Cape Crillon to the north for 600 km. They consist of three parallel chains-ridges: along coastline there is the Primorsky Range, to the east of it stretches the main one - the Kamyshevy Range with pointed peaks. Most high point his is the Mount of Return with a height of 1322 m. Third Mountain chain closes the West Sakhalin Mountains from the east and is called Poronaiskaya.

The East Sakhalin Mountains are the highest and most massive mountain system of Sakhalin, consisting of several ridges arranged in an echelon shape. The main ranges are the northwestern one, where the highest peaks of Sakhalin are located - Mount Lopatina (1609 m) and Mount Nevelskoy (height 1398 m), and southeast - Central. In the southern part, the East Sakhalin Mountains decline, deviating to the southeast. The mountains are strongly dissected by longitudinal and transverse valleys and have smoothed, rounded peaks.

Tym-Poronayskaya flat-bottomed lowland 5-30 wide km lies at a height of up to 150 m. In the Tym-Poronai Dole, two of the largest rivers of Sakhalin, the Tym and Poronai, laid their valleys. The first of them flows to the north, the second - to the south. The surface of the lowland is swampy, there is a large number of lakes, some of them are of thermokarst origin, which is associated with the occurrence of permafrost.

The West and East Sakhalin mountains in the north descend to the North Sakhalin lowland. The North Sakhalin lowland is an area of ​​transverse subsidence of folded-block structures, which in some places act as separate ridges up to 500 m. The surface of the lowland was leveled by the work of the seas in the Quaternary.

Traces of maritime activity are clearly preserved both in the morphology and geology of the lowland: it is composed of marine pebbles and sands, layers of clay, and ancient sea terraces, dunes, modern beaches, spits and embankments are widespread on its surface in the coastal strip. Sea terraces are heavily swamped. This is facilitated by: flat terrain, shallow water-resistant horizons in the form of clays, and in some areas of permafrost, a large amount of precipitation, river floods, reduced evaporation due to low temperatures, high air saturation with water vapor.

On the Schmidt Peninsula, two low ridges stretch parallel to the coastlines, ending in the north with two capes (Elizabeth and Mary). Mountains rise to a height of 400 - 600 m. The ridges are separated by a longitudinal valley, flooded in the north by the waters of the North Bay.

The southern part of Sakhalin (to the south of the Poyasok isthmus) has a rugged relief.

The coastline of the island is slightly indented, even the deeply protruding southern and northern bays (Patience, Aniva, Baikal, Severny) have straight shores. On the eastern coast of the North Sakhalin lowland, lagoons stretch for many tens of kilometers, separated from the sea by straight spits, bays and ramparts with a heap of dunes. Sandy deposits here are due to the work of the coastal current, which runs from north to south, and the removal of loose material by rivers. Sand spits are currently experiencing an upsurge, as evidenced by outcrops of bedrocks of a folded basement washed away by the sea at the base of the spits. Similar types of shores are common in other parts of the island, for example, in the northern part of Patience Bay. Rectilinear mountainous shores are developed along the West Sakhalin and in some places the East Sakhalin mountains, on the Schmidt Peninsula, where they approach sea level. Terraced shores are common in the mouths of rivers and in the lowlands, where the mountains recede from the seashore. Terrace levels are different - 15, 40, 80 and 120 m. The main settlements are concentrated on sea terraces.

Geological structure. Sakhalin is composed mainly of sedimentary rocks and, to a lesser extent, igneous rocks. The complex of Paleozoic deposits consists of crystalline and metamorphic schists of the Lower Paleozoic age, intruded by granites and porphyrites, quartzites, tuffaceous sandstones and marble-like carboniferous limestones. They are distributed in the middle part of the island, east of the Poronai and Tym rivers. Cretaceous deposits are widespread in the central and southern parts of the island, reaching a large thickness (more than 5 km); they are formed by sedimentary rocks - sandstones, conglomerates, coal shale, coal seams. These rocks are crumpled into folds, torn apart by normal faults, cut through by intrusions of porphyrites and diabases.

Tertiary deposits are widely developed and reach a thickness of 7-9 km. They consist of freshwater coastal and marine sediments - conglomerates, sandstones, clayey and carbonaceous shales with coal seams. Tertiary rocks are also intruded by diorite and syenite intrusions and basalt and andesite dikes. Volcanic tertiary rocks are concentrated in the western part of the island.

Quaternary deposits - marine and continental (sands, gravel, pebbles) - lie unconformably on Tertiary deposits. They are widespread in the northern and central parts of the island and form sea terraces, dunes, beaches, spits, embankments along the banks, and fill river valleys.

The presence of dislocations in all pre-Quaternary deposits indicates that mountain-building processes took place especially vigorously at the end of the Tertiary period. However, Paleozoic rocks were affected by Upper and Lower Paleozoic dislocations. Both foldings were accompanied by intrusive processes. Therefore, the entire island belongs to the Cenozoic folded structures of the Pacific belt. Folded structures are broken by faults of longitudinal transverse and diagonal strike. They determine the configuration of the island, the straightness of the coastline, and also partially the direction of the main orographic elements.

There are three major geological structures on Sakhalin Island.

1. West Sakhalin anticlinorium. It extends along the western coast from Crillon almost to Sakhalin Bay and coincides with the mid-altitude West Sakhalin Mountains. Upper Cretaceous deposits come out in the central part of it, and Tertiary deposits along its edges. Along the western coast of the island and along the Tatar Strait, there is a Synclinal trough.

2. East Sakhalin anticlinorium. It stretches parallel to the eastern coast of the island and coincides with the East Sakhalin Mountains. In the north, it sinks and emerges again on the Schmidt Peninsula. The axial part of the anticlinorium is composed of Paleozoic metamorphosed rocks, which

are unconformably overlain by Cretaceous and Tertiary. Upper Cretaceous rocks emerge on the Schmidt Peninsula.

3. Central Sakhalin synclinorium. It is located between the western and eastern anticlinoria and coincides with the Tym-Poronaisky Dol. It is filled with Upper Tertiary (occurring in gentle brachifolds) and Quaternary (marine and alluvial) deposits.

In the Quaternary, Sakhalin experienced repeated ups and downs. During the ice age, it was connected to the mainland of Asia in the region of the Tatar Strait, and earlier - with the island of Hokkaido. Then came the sea transgression. Currently, marine sediments occur at altitudes of 60-120 m and 275 m on the western coast, creating distinct sea terraces.

Young tectonic movements are known on the island at the present time: this is evidenced by earthquakes, the strength of which reaches 7-6 points in the southwest and on the Schmidt Peninsula, outcrops of mineral springs, the ingressive coast of the western part of the North Sakhalin lowland, the modern subsidence of the north - East lagoon coast. The island has mud volcanoes. They are located in groups along tectonic cracks - fault lines oriented to the northeast. The main group of mud volcanoes is located on the east coast, between the cities of Poronaysk and Dolinsk, as well as to the northwest of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk.

Geological history and tectonic structures predetermined the main types of Sakhalin relief. The North Sakhalin and Tym-Poronai lowlands are marine and erosional plains on lowered structures of the Cenozoic folding with remnant-denudation low mountains (North Sakhalin) and alluvial plains (Tym-Poronai). The mountain systems represent mainly erosion-denudation mid-mountains and low-mountains of Cenozoic folding.

The main minerals of the Sakhalin Islands are coal and oil. They are confined to Cretaceous and Tertiary deposits. Coking coal deposits are located in the west of Sakhalin, in the inner valleys of the West Sakhalin Mountains, in the central lowland, on the coast of Terpeniya Bay and in the southern part of the island. Oil is concentrated mainly in Upper Tertiary deposits in the north of Sakhalin; most oil fields are associated with discharges. The cities of Okha and Ekhabi are the richest in oil fields.

Climate. As a result of the seasonal influence of continental and marine air masses, a monsoon climate type is formed on Sakhalin, which is characterized by cold, less severe and more humid winters than on the mainland, and cool rainy summers. There is a significant difference in the climate of the western and eastern, northern and southern parts of the island: the eastern and northern parts are colder than the western and southern ones. This is explained by the fact that the northern and eastern shores of the island are washed by the cold current of the Sea of ​​Okhotsk with nearby spots of chilled water, with ice floating in the first half of summer, which are carried far to the south by the Sakhalin current and cool everything. East Coast to Aniva Bay. In the north of the island and near the Shantar Islands, ice remains until the end of June. The cold current contributes to the formation of strong fogs in spring and summer, which weaken the heating of the Sakhalin surface by the sun's rays.

Southwestern and southern shores the islands are washed by the waters of the warmer Sea of ​​Japan and the northern stream of its warm Tsushima current, under the influence of which the southern half of the Tatar Strait does not freeze, the amount of summer fogs is noticeably reduced and the air temperature rises.

The northern part of the western coast of Sakhalin is warmed in summer by the warm Amur water, which comes right up to the shores of the island. The meridional Sakhalin ridges isolate the Tym-Poronai lowland from the influence of cold sea winds and frequent fogs, and therefore its climate is harsh, continental.

Winter lasts five months in the south and seven months in the north of the island. On Sakhalin, polar continental air masses pass from the marginal part of the stable Asian anticyclone from October - November to March. At this time, northwestern dry cold continental winds dominate. When passing through the non-freezing part of the Sea of ​​Okhotsk, they are partially saturated with moisture. Winds blow at high speed - 7 m/s, and sometimes (during winter storms) - 30-37m/sec.

In winter, the entire island is cooler compared to the surrounding water spaces, as a result of which the local, Sakhalin, monsoon develops on it, blowing from the central part of Sakhalin to the seas. Winter temperatures are higher than on the mainland. In the northern half of the island average temperature January from -17.7 to -21.5°, and in the south - from -6.2 to -11.3°. In the Tym-Poronai lowland, the average January temperature is 23.5°, frosts reach -50°, in the North Sakhalin lowland the temperature can reach up to -40°. At the bottom of the Tym-Poronai lowland, cold air stagnates in winter, which contributes to temperature inversion.

Snow falls throughout the island. Snow cover is established in November, disappears in April and May, and in the mountains lies until mid-August.

There is a large amount of precipitation throughout the year, but they are distributed unevenly both over the territory and over the seasons: in the north, the annual amount of precipitation slightly exceeds 400 mm, on the west coast

600-850 mm, in the central parts of the island - 550-750 mm. The least amount of precipitation falls in winter.

Winter types of weather are not favorable for the growth of winter crops, but spring wheat crops in the central lowlands give a good harvest.

Spring is long, cold, in its second half fogs increase, especially on the coasts, snow lies for a long time, frosts are frequent, winds. In southern Sakhalin, even in March, frosts reach -30 °. In the second half of spring, the amount of precipitation begins to increase. During the spring period in the south of Sakhalin (the city of Korsakov) 22% of the annual precipitation falls. In spring, cloudiness increases, and air humidity also rises. The main reason for the cold and prolonged spring is the cooling effect of the Sea of ​​Okhotsk and its cold current.

Summer on Sakhalin is short and cool. Summer types of weather are formed under the influence of the southeast maritime monsoon, which operates from May to August. Southeast and south winds prevail, bringing in the lower layers of the air flow sea air of temperate latitudes, and in the upper layers - warm, tropical, sea air. Large cloudiness, prolonged fogs, which are especially intense on its eastern coast, and abundant precipitation are associated with the invasion of Sakhalin by sea air.

The warmest month is August: the average August temperatures reach +10.9, +15.6° in the north. Such a temperature in summer is also typical for the Murmansk coast, which is located 15° north of Sakhalin. In the south, the average August temperature is from +17.4 to +19.6°, in the southwest +18.2°. The highest summer temperatures (+36°) are observed in the Tym-Poronai lowland and southern Sakhalin (+30° and more).

The greatest amount of precipitation falls in the summer and autumn months (July - September). It often rains drizzling.

Autumn is warm and rainy. Rains are plentiful, but short, often in the form of downpours, sometimes with thunderstorms. Therefore, in autumn there is the greatest number clear days- 48%. In September, frosts are rare, in October the temperature drops to -10 ° and snow cover sets in. November is a winter month with frosts down to -20°, with the lowest air humidity.

Rivers and lakes. In the mountains and on the plains of Sakhalin, the river network is dense and abundant. The rivers belong to the basins of the Sea of ​​Okhotsk and the Sea of ​​Japan. The main watershed runs through the West Sakhalin Mountains and the central part of the North Sakhalin Lowland.

The largest rivers of the island are Tym and Poronai, each of them is about 250 meters long. km, and the pool area is approximately 8000km 2.

Most rivers start in the mountains. Plain rivers flow calmly in sandy-silty sediments over swampy lowlands. Freezing of rivers begins in November, opening - in April and May.

The flooding of rivers is influenced by the melting of snow on the plains and in the mountains, as well as monsoon rains. Therefore, the flood passes in three waves: in spring, rivers overflow as a result of snowmelt on the plains, in early summer - as a result of snowmelt in the mountains, and in June and August, floods begin associated with monsoon showers. The water in the rivers rises by about 4 m above the intermediate level. Tidal waves penetrate into the mouths of the rivers, while the level of the rivers rises by 1-1.5 m.

The Tym and Poronay rivers are used for the movement of boats and for timber rafting.

On the plains there are a large number of small lakes of the floodplain type, along the coasts lagoon lakes stretch for tens of kilometers.

Soils and vegetation. The Quaternary history of Sakhalin and the severity of the climate predetermined mainly its modern flora. Former connections of the island with the mainland and with neighboring islands contributed to the movement of wildlife and vegetation from north to south (for example, Dahurian larch, tundra mosses) and from south to north (Kuril bamboo, Manchurian walnut, velvet tree, vines). At the same time, the insular position had an impact on the development of typical island species of flora and plant groups, such as: Sakhalin fir ( Abies sahalinensis), Kuril bamboo( Sasa kurilensis), dove ( VacciniumOValifolium), communities of stone birch with thickets of Kuril bamboo. However, there are few endemic species, which proves the recent isolation of Sakhalin.

The Sakhalin flora includes representatives of the Okhotsk-type flora (Ayan spruce and stone birch), Arctic flora (Alpine bearberry, Arctic bluegrass) and East Siberian flora (dwarf pine, Middendorf birch). In the southern part of the island, tertiary species of the Manchurian flora predominate (Manchurian walnut, ash and oak, Mongolian oak, from vines - lemongrass, actinidia, grapes, holly( Jlex rugosa).

The flora of Sakhalin has about 900-1000 species. The distribution of plant groups and the formation of various types of soils are mainly influenced by various climatic conditions, topography, which creates local climate features and determines the manifestations of vertical zonality, as well as the composition of parent rocks.

According to its latitudinal position, Sakhalin is located in the forest-steppe and steppe, however, the cooling effect of the Sea of ​​Okhotsk and its cold currents creates more northern taiga plant groups. At the same time, on the east coast, as it is more chilled, the northern species descend to the south much further than on the west, and many southern, heat-loving species are completely absent there, while on the southwest coast they are widespread.

Spruce-fir forests are the most typical for the landscape of Sakhalin. They grow in the foothills and mountainous regions of the island on slightly podzolized soils formed on stony and gravelly parent rocks. The soils are well drained, rich in humus, their illuvial horizon is poorly developed.

Shade-tolerant Ayan spruce is considered the main tree species of spruce-fir forests. ( Picea jezoensis), forming the first tier. In the second tier, shade-loving Sakhalin fir is mixed with it.( Abies sachalinensis), which grows in the south of Sakhalin.

From hardwoods in spruce-fir forests there are: aspen, birch, willow, poplar, elm, ash, yellow maple( Acer ukurunduense), Rowan ( Sorbus commixta), Sakhalin euonymus( Evohymus sachalinensis), and in the south-west, in the conditions of the warmest climate, warmed by a branch of the Tsushima current, the taiga is replaced by a mixed forest with an admixture in the extreme south of broad-leaved Manchurian species: Mongolian oak, Manchurian ash, velvet tree, coniferous - spiky Far Eastern yew( taxus cuspidata); from vines there are actinidia( Actinidia kolomikta), Schizandra chinensis, or schizandra( Schizandra chinensis), grape. Mountain brown forest soils are developed under the southern forests.

In the southern part of Sakhalin, large areas of forests have been heavily cut down. Therefore, large areas are occupied by clearings, burnt areas, wilds of dense tall grass. Under the canopy of coniferous and broad-leaved forests, Kuril bamboo forms dense thickets up to 2 m. After cutting mountain forests or fires, it descends into the foothills, littering crops. In forests, bamboo drowns out the undergrowth of coniferous and deciduous species. The fight against it is very difficult, since it has huge rhizomes (5-6 m) and elastic slippery stem. Kuril bamboo rises above the belt of coniferous forests, even in forests of stone birch its height reaches 2m.

The northern plain of Sakhalin is dominated by sparse larch forests. There are spruce forests with blueberries or moss cover. Peaty, peat-gley soils form under forests, and podzolic soils develop in the driest areas, on river terraces and on mountain slopes. Larch forests and lichen groups of northern Sakhalin are excellent forage grounds for reindeer.

Significant areas of the North Sakhalin lowland are occupied by raised sphagnum bogs with peat-bog soils. Thickets of tall shrubs rise above the mosses - marsh myrtle( Myrica tomentosa). The thickness of peatlands reaches 2-5 m. In dry areas, thickets of dwarf pine are common, which on coastal ridges looks like trees 6-7 meters high. m with straight stems. The watersheds are covered with a continuous reindeer moss carpet.

On the Tym-Poronai lowland, peat bogs are widespread, covered with larch forests with white birch.

Along the river valleys, especially in the southern part of the island, urem forests stretch, consisting of colossal poplars.( Populus maximowiezii) height up to 35 m. They either form pure groves or meet with willows: Chosenia( Chosenia macrolepis), Sakhalin willow( Salix sachalinensis) and hearty willow. In the floodplain forests there are thickets of giant grasses; the most typical of them are large umbellate: bear's root( Angelica ursina) and hogweed ( Heracleum barbatum), shalaminik ( Filipendula kamtschatica) , Sakhalin nettle( Urtica platypkylla), sow thistle (WITH irsium pendulum), japanese butterbur( Petasites japonica), ragwort ( Senecio palmatus), giant ferns and burdocks( Petasites japonicus), cacao, reed grass.

Meadows consisting of reed grass, sedge and herbs occupy small areas in river valleys.

Tundra groups developed on the chilled coasts, in the upper reaches of the river. Poronaya, on the embankments of the Patience Peninsula and on the tops of the mountains. Sandy dry coasts are covered with lichen cushions, birch, alder, cedar, dog rose bushes. On saline soils of lower areas of sea coasts, halophyte vegetation is found: saltwort( Salicorma herbacea), milky ( Glaux maritima), plantain ( Plantago Salsa).

In the mountainous regions of Sakhalin, the vertical zonality of the soil and vegetation cover is clearly expressed. An example is the change of vegetation when climbing the mountains from the valley of the river. Tymi or Poronaya: on river terraces, flooded only during high floods, forests of poplar, willow and chosenia grow; higher, on the floodplain terraces, larch forests are widespread. On the slopes of the mountains, fir-spruce forests already dominate; at an altitude of 700 m stone birch is mixed with these forests, and gradually they turn into park birch forests. The Sakhalin Mountains are characterized by belts of forests of one stone birch, growing on very stony soils. Stone birch looks like crooked trees 6-12 m with curved branches and spreading crowns. In the undergrowth of birch forests, dense thickets of bamboo and various shrubs are common: cedar elfin, dove, golden rhododendron. Above, starting from a height of 1000-1100 m, birch forests are replaced by thickets of elfin cedar with an admixture of wild rosemary, golden rhododendron and lichens, and sometimes Kuril bamboo.

The Alpine belt of the Sakhalin Mountains is formed on bald mountains and has the appearance of a mountain tundra, consisting of blue heather( Phyllopode coerulea) and diapensia ( Diapensia lapponica), partridge grass( Dryas Tschonoshii), gentians ( Gentiana Nipponica). Spots alpine meadows found only in the southern parts of the mountains.

The forests of Sakhalin are of great economic importance. Spruce and fir wood is highly valued. On Sakhalin, resonant spruce is being harvested, which is technically superior to Caucasian spruce.

The area of ​​agricultural land in the Sakhalin region is relatively small. Climatic conditions Sakhalin is not very favorable for agriculture: an abundance of moisture in the soil and in the air, late onset of warm days, intense rains. Lands on alluvial soils in the valley of the river are used for agriculture. Tymi. Spring rye, barley, wheat, potatoes, oats and vegetables are cultivated there. In the south of Sakhalin, a large number of agricultural crops give a high yield. In addition to the crops listed above, millet, sugar beets, peas, flax, beans, hemp, tobacco, poppy, soybeans, and cold-resistant varieties of rice grow here.

Animal world. On Sakhalin, the taiga-Siberian fauna is most common, but many animal species typical of the Siberian taiga are absent on Sakhalin, for example, deer, elk, roe deer, badger, black grouse.

In the harsh sparse larch forests and in the spruce-fir mountain forests, mammals are found: bear, wolverine, wolf, fox, lynx, hare, squirrel, chipmunk, flying squirrel, and sometimes sable. Of the birds, common Siberian species are known: kuksha, nutcracker, tit, small and motley woodpeckers, owls, capercaillie, hazel grouse.

Wild Sakhalin reindeer are found in the north of Sakhalin and in its central part.( Rangifer tarandus setoni). Here at 46° N. sh. - the southernmost limit of its distribution. Of the birds, the white Sakhalin partridge lives( Lagopus lagopus okactai), the spotted pipit nests in swamps

(Authus hodgsoni inopinatus), snow bunting (Plectrophenax niualis). The Amur frog is found in hummocky swamps( Rana amurensis).

Of the southern species of birds for Sakhalin are typical: Japanese small starling( Sturnia philippensis), Japanese flycatcher (Muscicapa narcissina), Sakhalin Thrush(T urdus sibiricus), flying away for the winter southeast Asia, Japanese long-tailed bullfinch( Uragus sibiricus sanguinolentus) .

The rivers of Sakhalin are rich in fish; pink salmon, chum salmon, saffron cod, smelt enter them. Some species of fish are common with Amur ones, for example, the Far Eastern loach ( Misgurus anguillicaudatus) and Amur pike ( Esox reicherti), which proves the once existing connection between Sakhalin and the mainland.

For freshwater reservoirs are typical: crucian carp, pike, carp, trout, perch, burbot. The largest of the freshwater mollusks, the Eastern Chinese form is the cristaria. ( Cristuria plicata) - found on Sakhalin.

The world of animals on the coasts is rich and diverse. On the steep, rocky shores, many seabirds nest, forming "bird colonies". These are guillemots, guillemots, gulls, hatchets, albatrosses.

Marine mammals are of great value: seal, sea lion, sea otter, white whale.

To Tyulenye Island comes every year from southern seas a herd of fur seals that arrange a rookery here. On the rocks islands are large"Bird market". Locals collect eggs and hunt birds.

On volcanic island Monerone, washed by the jets of the warm Tsushima current, there is a large sea lion rookery. Pacific herring, cod, flounder, chum salmon, pink salmon and crabs are hunted in the sea.

The following physical and geographical regions are distinguished on Sakhalin:

0- IV 1 . North Sakhalin lowland - sea plain, reworked by erosion. The plain is composed of submerged Tertiary folded-block structures overlain by sedimentary, Miocene and Quaternary deposits, with recent subsidence and ruptures. Under conditions of a harsh climate, a predominantly larch sparse taiga with an admixture of spruce and fir is developed.

The Schmidt Peninsula is formed by low-mountain ranges composed of Upper Cretaceous and Miocene sediments with a predominance of recent uplifts and faults. The ridges are covered with spruce taiga, and the valley between them is covered with forest-tundra and deciduous woodlands. Permafrost is developed.

ABOUT - IV 2 . West Sakhalin mid-altitude mountains, formed by the Tertiary anticlinorium, composed of Upper Cretaceous and Tertiary deposits. Recent uplifts with faults along the eastern and western slopes predominate. The mountains are covered with spruce-fir taiga, and in the south, in the valleys of the western slope protected from cold winds, broad-leaved forests appear.

ABOUT - IV 3 . Tym-Poronaisky And Sosuan Doli- intermountain alluvial proluvial plains, composed of Neogene and Neogene-Quaternary deposits with a predominance of the latest tectonic subsidence. The cool climate with the development of temperature inversions and permafrost spots promotes the growth of larch taiga, light forests with forest tundra areas. Sosuan Dol is much warmer than Tym-Poronai. It is covered with meadows and arable lands, deciduous forests and larch groves that grow along the river valleys.

ABOUT - IV 4 . East Sakhalin mountains. Tonino-Aniva and Sosuan ranges. These are erosion-denudation medium-altitude and low mountains formed by the Tertiary anticlinorium around the middle ancient massif. They are composed mainly of Paleozoic deposits with spots of the Upper Proterozoic and Lower Cambrian, and Cretaceous and Tertiary deposits are developed along the edges of the anticlinorium. Recent uplifts predominate. The mountains are covered with the Okhotsk taiga.

- Source-

Davydova, M.I. Physical geography of the USSR / M.I. Davydova [and d.b.]. - M .: Education, 1966. - 847 p.

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From Japanese, this area is translated as "the land of the god of the mouth", the Manchu language calls it "Sakhalyan-ulla". Initially, Sakhalin was identified on maps as a peninsula, but subsequent expeditions provided a lot of evidence in favor of the opinion that Sakhalin is still an island.

The harsh lands of Sakhalin are located east of the Asian coast. The island is the largest Russian Federation and is a neighbor of the Kuril Islands. A traveler who has visited these places remains deeply impressed for a long time. Natural monuments are the main treasure of the island.

Description and location of the island

The cold waters of the Sea of ​​Okhotsk wash the territory of Sakhalin, warm waters are taken from the Japanese and Pacific Oceans. Treason, La Perouse and Soviet are the only border with the state of Japan. The distance from Sakhalin to the mainland is completely occupied by water.

The area of ​​Sakhalin is 87 thousand square kilometers. This figure includes the islands of Tyuleniy, Ush, Moneron, the Kuril ridge with the Kuril archipelago.

From the extreme southern point of the island to the northern one, there are 950 km. The entire area of ​​Sakhalin looks like a scaly fish (from the height of the ISS flight), where the scales are a lot of rivers and lakes scattered across the island.

Separates Sakhalin and the mainland. There are two capes in the strait, the width between which is about seven kilometers. For the most part, the coast is flat with numerous mouths of rivers that flow into the seas.

Story

The historical background of the island begins with the Early Paleolithic, about three hundred thousand years ago.

Today, more than 10,000 kilometers separate the Sakhalin area from the Russian capital. The plane flies through seven time zones before reaching the airport of the largest city, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk.

Russian travelers in the 17th century often became pioneers, discovering new lands of their vast country. In the 50s of the 19th century, an expedition led by Nevelsky finally proved the Japanese theory that Sakhalin was an island formation. At the same time, the island was inhabited by peasants, and became the border point of Russia and Japan, so military posts were placed throughout the territory. The next 30 years turned this place into a colony where exiles were sent.

Treaties between Russia and Japan had a great impact on the study of the Sakhalin land. For ninety years, the Russian-Japanese border has changed four times. Due to the armed intervention by the Japanese in 1920, the entire area of ​​Sakhalin was occupied. The troops were withdrawn only in 1925, and seven years later the island became part of the Far East, as the Sakhalin region.

Wandering from one country to another, the Kuriles finally returned to the Soviet Union after the Second World War. The modern border of the region was formed in 1947.

The capital of Sakhalin is the city of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, which was formed by settlers at the end of the 19th century.

Tourism on Sakhalin

The geography of Sakhalin and the Kuril Islands is a treasure trove of the Far East. Until now, the development of island attractions continues. The development of tourism, according to the authorities, should bring the region's economy to a qualitatively new level of development. About 60 travel companies operate on the island, and most of the tourists are from neighboring Japan. They are attracted by the variety of not only natural, but also historical monuments. The authorities of the island also monitor the Japanese heritage left over from the occupation.

In recent years, ecotourism has begun to actively develop on Sakhalin. But given the fact that the Japanese are more focused on comfortable living conditions, then travel companies are limited to field trips, and hotels and hotels are increasingly improving the services provided. Almost all hotels have a menu with oriental dishes (including Japanese).

A program of hikes to Chekhov Peak is being implemented. The territories are being improved more and more, including the construction of a tourist complex in the village of Goryachiye Klyuchi and the Aquamarine tourist center. A project is being prepared for the construction of complexes near thermal mineral springs.

Of the sights, one can single out: the incredible beauty of the Bird's Lake; the partially destroyed Devil's Bridge; the largest waterfall on the island of Kunashir - Ptichy; active volcanoes Kuril - Golovnina, Tyatya; lighthouse at Cape Aniva; the coast of the Sea of ​​Okhotsk covered with white rocks; picturesque lake Tunaicha; Treasury of the nature of the Kuril Islands - Iturup Island; northern hot springs of the island; formation on the rocks Kunashir - Cape Stolbchaty; the southern point of the island is Cape Crillon; most beautiful waterfall on Russian territory - Ilya Muromets.

Population of Sakhalin

It has about 500 thousand multinationals, the population consists of Russians, Ukrainians, Belarusians, Koreans, Mordovians, Tatars, as well as indigenous people.

Includes several nationalities: Nivkhs, Tonchis, Evenks, Ainu, Nanai, Uilta. These are the inhabitants of these lands who lived on them before the establishment of modern borders. Indigenous peoples, unfortunately, are very few in number. However, they are still engaged in the development of their national economy and lead a national life.

Flora

Diversity among the flora and fauna of Sakhalin is not observed. Compared with Japanese islands, the territory of the Sakhalin region is quite poor in terms of the number of representatives of the flora and fauna.

F. Schmidt began to study the flora of the island in the middle of the 19th century. On this moment There are about 1,500 species of plants on Sakhalin that have vessels for carrying water, dissolved mineral salts and other organic elements (vascular).

About seventy percent of Sakhalin is occupied by forests, despite the environmental problem of deforestation and annual fires, the north of the island is still occupied by coniferous trees. This area is considered dark coniferous taiga. New trees grow very slowly due to lack of sunlight. In order for a young tree to receive a good dose of sun, it has to wait until one of the old representatives of the forest falls and brings light into the dark taiga shroud.

There are, of course, light coniferous forests, but their representatives are mainly larches, which are not very common on the island. Why is this happening? The special soil is to blame for everything, under which clay layers are located. They do not allow water to pass through and, accordingly, do not allow trees to develop and grow well. And a very small part of the forest area is occupied by deciduous forests.

Sakhalin forests are rich in wild rosemary, which forms serious thickets and swamps. Of the berries, blueberries and cranberries are common here, and cloudberries grow in the swamps. There are many perennial herbs and shrubs.

Fauna

Allows forty-four species of mammals to live on the island. Bears, reindeer, otters, wolverines, raccoon dogs and a large number of rodents are common here, about 370 different types of birds, of which 10 are predators.

During the period of development of the island, a large amount of flora and fauna was destroyed by man, therefore, a rather long list of endangered animals and plants of Sakhalin has been included in the Red Book.

Industry

The Sakhalin industry is developing at a fairly rapid pace, it included the oil and gas production, coal, fishing and energy industries. Of course, the advantage for many years remains oil and gas production. Thanks to the developments of the Sakhalin scientists Russia entered the list of leading countries in the export of liquefied natural gas. Sakhalin provides gas to Japan, Thailand, Korea, Mexico and China.

The development of shelf deposits made it possible to improve the condition of roads, residential premises, and so on in terms of money. For the constant growth of the region's economy, work is underway to attract continuous investment in existing projects.

Climate of Sakhalin

The climatic conditions of the island are moderate monsoons, due to the direct proximity to the water. Winter here is quite snowy and long, and summer is cold. For example, January weather has strong northern winds and frosts. Quite often you can get into a snowstorm. Snow avalanches are also not uncommon here, sometimes the winter wind reaches an incredible speed of hurricane force. In winter, the temperature drops to -40 degrees, and adjusted for the wind, even lower.

Summer on Sakhalin is short - from mid-June to early September with temperatures from 10 to 19 degrees above zero. It is quite rainy, the Pacific Ocean brings high humidity.

The warm current of the Sea of ​​Japan flows in the southwest, while the eastern coast is washed by the Sea of ​​Okhotsk with a cold current. By the way, it is the Sea of ​​Okhotsk that dooms Sakhalin to cold spring weather. The snow usually doesn't melt until May. But there were also record highs of +35 degrees. In general, each season here comes with a three-week delay. Therefore, in August, the warmest days, and in February - the coldest.

The summer season brings floods to the island. In the 80s, Sakhalin suffered from a powerful typhoon. He left more than 4,000 people homeless. And in 1970, a typhoon poured more than a month's rainfall in a few hours. A fifteen-year-old typhoon brought mudslides and landslides. Usually such weather conditions come from the Pacific Ocean.

Geography and geology

The geographical relief of Sakhalin Island is determined by mountains of medium and low height, as well as flat areas. The West Sakhalin and East Sakhalin mountain systems are located in the south and in the center of the island. The north is represented by a hilly plain. The coast is marked by four peninsular points and two large bays.

The relief of the island consists of eleven areas: the Schmidt Peninsula is a land with a steep rocky coast and mountainous terrain; the plain of northern Sakhalin is a territorial area with hills and many river networks, it is here that the main oil and gas fields are located; mountains of the western part of Sakhalin; lowland Tym-Poronayskaya - located in the center of the island, its main part is swampy; Susunai lowland - located in the south and most of all populated by people; the eponymous ridge - Susunaisky, which includes the famous Chekhov and Pushkinsky peaks; mountains of eastern Sakhalin with the highest point - Mount Lopatin; peninsula of Patience with its lowlands; plateau Korsakovskoe; lowland Muravyovskaya, consisting of numerous lakes, popular among local residents; the Tonino-Anivsky ridge is famous for the Kruzenshtern mountain and its deposits of the Jurassic period.

Minerals

First place among natural resources Sakhalin Islands are biological, moreover, this niche brings the region to the first place in the Russian Federation. The island is rich in hydrocarbon reserves and coal deposits. In addition, Sakhalin produces a large amount of wood, gold, mercury, platinum, chromium, germanium and talc.

How to get to the mainland?

The distance from Sakhalin to the mainland of Russia can be overcome in several ways: by plane (for example, from the nearest city of Khabarovsk), by ferry from Vanino, and for extreme people in winter, you can overcome the water part on foot on frozen ice.

Considered the narrowest point between the mainland and the island, its width is about seven kilometers.

However, the island has interesting story frozen construction railway started under Stalin. Moreover, the trains had to pass through special tunnels through the already mentioned Cape Nevelskoy and Cape Lazarev. The construction of railway lines was carried out by convicts from Gulag prisons. Work progressed at a rapid pace, but the death of the leader completely stopped the project. Many prisoners were amnestied.

Surprisingly, not a single bridge has been built in all the past years. Therefore, modern developments begin precisely with the intentions of constructing bridge crossings. Moreover, Russia intends to connect Sakhalin with Japan for more fruitful cooperation between the regions.

- near the eastern coast of Siberia. It lies between 46° and 54° north latitude and 141° and 145° east longitude. The island stretches from north to south for 850 km. The width of the island is maximum 183 kilometers and minimum 24 km.

The nearest distance from the island to the mainland is near the mouth, between Capes Lazarev and Pogobi. Here between the lands 7 km. The southern end of Sakhalin departs from the coast of the mainland at a distance of about 300 km. If you count in parallel. The smallest width of the La Perouse Strait, which separates Sakhalin from Iesso, is about 40 km. Between Sakhalin and the mainland is located, the continuation of which is, which received in its narrowest part, near the mouth of the Amur River, the name of the Nevelskoy Strait. The width of the strait coincides with its depth. From Cape to Cape Mary, the depths are so insignificant that three famous navigators: La Perouse and Broughton tried to penetrate this strait from to. They came to the conclusion that Sakhalin is a peninsula. Subsequently, the fairway was found by Nevelskoye, but it turned out to be passable only for ships with a draft of no deeper than 23 feet (1 foot = 30.5 cm). To the south of Cape Lazarev, the depths increase rapidly.

The water in the North is warmer than in Okhotsk. Which by its properties approaches the polar seas. main reason low in the Sea of ​​Okhotsk lies in the masses of ice that originated in the Gizhiginskaya and Peyzhinskaya bays. The ice stays near the northern end of Sakhalin almost all summer long. These ices are carried by the fast Sakhalin current, washing the northern part of the island and the northern half of its eastern coast, to the latitudes of middle Sakhalin. The influence of low temperatures in the Sea of ​​Okhotsk does not extend to the North Japan Sea, as this is prevented by Sakhalin. In addition, the current from the Amur blocks the access of ice from the Sea of ​​Okhotsk to the Tatar and La Perouse Straits. Through these, only the surface layers of both seas are connected, which does not contribute to the cooling of the Sea of ​​​​Japan for the reason that the warm Japanese sea approaches it. One branch of the current turns into the Sea of ​​Okhotsk, and the other rises along the western coast of Sakhalin and has a beneficial effect on this part of the island.

The physical properties of the seas surrounding Sakhalin determine the difference in the climates of different parts of the island. Its northern part, coming close to the mainland, is climatically influenced by it. Strong cooling during the winter, when the Nevelskoy Strait freezes completely, causes strong northerly and northwesterly winds on Sakhalin.

Under the influence of winds, winters in the northern part of the island are distinguished by continental severity. Freezing of mercury is a common occurrence here. In summer, in the northern part of the island, blowing from the cold Sea of ​​\u200b\u200bOkhotsk prevails, which greatly lower the temperature in summer. Thus, climatically, Northern and Middle Sakhalin are placed in unfavorable conditions: these parts of the island have severe continental winters and cold seaside summers. Winter in the northern part, in terms of average temperature, approaches the winter of the coast of the Arctic Ocean in or the southern part of the island. Summer is like the summer of the coast, although the northern end of Sakhalin is approximately at the latitude of Simbirsk. At the mouth of the Tym east coast islands and in Due, almost at the latitude of Saratov, is found. The further south from Douai, the milder the climate becomes. It takes on a marine character. The difference in climate between the western shores of the island and the opposite coast of the mainland is growing. The difference lies in the fact that the winter cold on Sakhalin is less significant than at the corresponding latitude of the coast of Eastern Siberia. Winter and summer in the southern part of the island resemble the same seasons of the Arkhangelsk and Olonets regions in terms of average temperature. Despite the fact that the southern end of Sakhalin is at the latitude of Odessa and Astrakhan. In addition to the low temperature of winter and summer, Sakhalin is also distinguished by the fact that spring is much colder than autumn. This happens even inside the island, but especially in its south.

Despite the insignificant width of Sakhalin, there is a big difference in the climate of its eastern and western shores. This is precisely the different influence of the seas washing the island. On the eastern coast, washed by the cold, where even in June there are floating ice, at the latitude of the mouth of the Tym River, the climate is much more severe. Winter and summer are colder here than at the corresponding latitude of the western coast. This is because the influence of the cold Sea of ​​Okhotsk, due to the mountainous nature of the island and the meridional location of the ridges that hold back the winds, is not transmitted to the western coast.

Sakhalin Island (photo by Vladislav Petrushko)

Throughout Sakhalin it is very significant. Winter is characterized by an abundance of snow, and summer by frequent rains. The thickness reaches two meters. In Kusunnai, up to 150 rainy days are observed during the year, of which 60 are rainy and 90 are snowy. Frequent in summer, more on the east than on the west coast. The surface of Sakhalin is almost entirely mountainous, and only between the ridges are lowlands along which rather large rivers flow. The western coast from the southern tip of Cape Crillon consists of an almost solid stone wall. It rises in places up to 100, 200 feet. There is not a single significant bay here, and there are no islands either. The exception is Monneron Island, which lies near the southern end of Sakhalin. The western coast remains in this way until Cape Wanda, located opposite the De-Kastri Gulf. To the north of this cape stretches a flat Sandy shore stretching along the entire Amur estuary. In the Sea of ​​Okhotsk, near the northern tip of Sakhalin, the coast becomes mountainous again. A similar alternation of steep and flat banks is observed on the eastern coast. This is observed at approximately the same latitudes. There are two bays here: Nyisky and Patience Bay.

In those places where the coast is low, there are many lakes, separated from the sea by low isthmuses and connected to it by channels. These channels, as well as the mouths big rivers, are the only places where small boats can land on shore.

Europeans discovered Sakhalin in the 17th century. The first to visit the island in 1640 were the Cossacks, led by the ataman and explorer Ivan Moskvitin. Three years later, the expedition of the Dutch navigator Martin de Vries went there. However, Freese erroneously considered Sakhalin to be a peninsula connected to Hokkaido. Disputes about whether it connects to the mainland or other islands continued until the middle of the 19th century. In 1849, Admiral Gennady Nevelskoy crossed the strait between the island and the mainland on the military ship Baikal. Sakhalin was marked on maps as an island, and the strait was later given the name of Nevelskoy.

In 1869, those who were sentenced to penal servitude, most often for life, began to be exiled here. Initially, prisons for them were built only in the northern part of the island, but then settlements appeared in the south. Gradually, convicts became the main part of the population of Sakhalin.

IN late XIX centuries, Anton Chekhov came to the island. He got acquainted with the life of convicts, wrote down petitions and memoirs of Sakhalin residents, and conducted a population census here. Later, the writer published the artistic and publicistic book "Sakhalin Island", in which he described in detail the local nature, the way of life of the indigenous people and the exiles, included here fragments of documents, statistical data, records of scientists and travelers who had been on the island before. A whole museum in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk is dedicated to this book: its exposition includes exhibits related to the life and work of Chekhov (including his personal belongings). Several settlements of the Sakhalin region are named after the writer. Monuments to Chekhov have been erected in several cities of the island, and the Literary and Art Museum of A.P. Chekhov "Sakhalin Island".

The indigenous people of Sakhalin are the Nivkhs and the Ainu. However, today they make up less than 1% of all inhabitants of the island. In addition to Russians, Koreans, Ukrainians, and Tatars live in the Sakhalin Region.

Historical and cultural monuments of Sakhalin

Sakhalin passed from Russia to Japan and back several times, and many monuments of Japanese culture have been preserved on the island. One of them is the building of the Museum of Local Lore in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. It was built in traditional Japanese style in 1937. The modern exposition of the museum includes more than 170 thousand exhibits: they include samples of flora and fauna, household items of the indigenous inhabitants of the island, historical documents, ancient weapons.

Another monument of Japanese architecture is a ritual torii gate made of white marble near the village of Vzmorye. Previously, there was a temple of Tomarioru Jinja behind them, but it has not survived to this day.

At the beginning of the 20th century, the Japanese built the Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk-Polyakovo railway line on the island. Today it is not used for its intended purpose and has become historical monument. From the Devil's Bridge - the highest in the Sakhalin Region - opens beautiful view in the vicinity of the railroad.

Island nature

The flora and fauna of Sakhalin is poorer than on the mainland, but dense forests grow here and there are animals and plants listed in the Red Book. In addition, scientists have recorded a phenomenon that is unique to this region: herbaceous plants on Sakhalin often grow to gigantic sizes. Nettle, buckwheat, bear's pipe and other herbs can reach 3-5 meters in height.

Nesting on Lake Tunaicha different types birds, and on Seal Island near Sakhalin there is a large seal rookery and huge bird colonies. In the vicinity of the highest point of the island - Mount Wajda - there are karst caves. From the top of the Zhdanko mountain range, a view of the picturesque surroundings opens up. On Cape Velikan you can see natural arches, grottoes and pillars that arose under the influence of wind and salt sea ​​water. Sakhalin has an active mud volcano, as well as mineral and thermal springs.

Sakhalin is an elongated island located in pacific ocean. In the Russian Far East (between 45°50' and 54°24'N). Together with the Kuril Islands, it forms the Sakhalin region, the capital of which is Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk.

The island has a length from north to south of 948 km, with an average width of several tens of kilometers. The area of ​​the island is 76,400 square kilometers, making it the 23rd largest island in the world.

Sakhalin Island is within walking distance of the Asian continent, from which it is separated by the Tatar Strait; in the northern part, the distance to the continent narrows to about 7 km. In the south, the La Perouse Strait is separated from the Japanese Hokkaido. The northern point of the island is Cape Elizabeth, and Cape Crillon is the southernmost point.

The territory of the island is mostly mountainous, with the exception of the northern part, where the northern lowlands begin. Central and southern mountains mainly elongated in the meridional direction, the largest of which is the Western chain. In the Eastern chain, Mount Lopatina (1609 m) is the highest point of the island. There are no major rivers on the island.

Climate

Enough on Sakhalin Island low temperature, for its latitude, this is due to cold sea currents that carry cold to the shores of Sakhalin, the western shores of Sakhalin are the most exposed to cold.

The island has very cold winters, in January the temperature fluctuates between -18°C and -25°C in the north and between -6°C and -12°C in the south. The rise in temperature is very slow, due to the proximity of cold seas, so spring comes late, about three weeks later than on the mainland. The hottest month of the year is usually August, when the average temperature is between 11°C and 16°C in the north and between 16°C and 20°C in the south.

Population

At the beginning of the 20th century, about 32,000 Russians (of which 22,150 were deported) lived on the island along with several thousand natives. Currently, Sakhalin has 673,000 inhabitants, of which 83% are Russians. The 400,000 Japanese who lived in the southern part of the island were forced to take refuge in Japan after World War II. The capital, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, which has nearly 200,000 inhabitants, is home to a small number of Koreans who were brought here during World War II to work in the coal mines.

Popular science film about the nature of Fr. Sakhalin, ecology and life of indigenous peoples