There is in the north-west of the Czech Republic in the Usti region, on the very border with Germany, an amazingly beautiful protected place, which is called nothing less than Czech-Saxon Switzerland. This corner is almost untouched wildlife, a magical protected park that simultaneously covers the territory of two countries - the Czech Republic and Germany.

Many tourists from all over the country and beyond come here every day to enjoy the cleanest air, wild beauty reserve, which is called: Czech Switzerland Park. It is interesting that part of the protected lands that ended up on the territory of neighboring Germany is called Saxon Switzerland.

Why are these places so attractive for those who are tired of civilization?

Czech Switzerland - brief description

It all started many thousands of years ago - it was then that from rocks of volcanic origin on the lands of the present national park amazingly beautiful canyons, crevices, gorges were formed, sandstone rocks unusual in their shape and structure, as if endowed with a human soul...

Dozens of centuries passed, and by 2000, a national park with an area of ​​80 sq. km appeared on the map of the country of beer and dumplings. — Czech paradise or Czech Switzerland. But long before this, a small urban village - Grzhensk - became a real tourist center, a pier for everyone who wanted to relax away from noisy cities. It is well developed here tourism infrastructure and, despite its modest size, in this town, always filled with tourists, there is always a place to stay for the night or just have an inexpensive and tasty snack.

Most often, guests come from the capital to admire the protected paradise, and the trip can take only one day. But if you want to have a full and quality rest, it is best to book accommodation in a boarding house or a hotel room for at least 2-3 days, since there is really something to catch the eye of even a very experienced traveler.

Attention! In Grzhensk you can buy cute souvenirs in the form of gnomes and other things for children or just as a good memory. fairy tale characters.

Sights of Czech Switzerland

So, you are eager to see with your own eyes what other guests of this magical place are enthusiastically talking about. Then let's together make a list of attractions in the reserve that are simply prohibited by the law of conscience and honor to miss!

Advice! If you want to fully enjoy the bright colors of the luxurious nature of these places, go to Czech Switzerland in the fall, in September or October.

Thanks to numerous signs scattered throughout the protected park, you can choose for your company both more complex, longer, 15-25 km long, and simple routes in Czech Switzerland, 8-12 km long.

Pravcicka Gate

There is a special rock in Czech Switzerland, which is proudly called the symbol of the entire reserve. This is “Pravchitsky brana”, which in Russian sounds like “Pravchitsky gate”. The unique rock is the highest in all of Europe and looks like a monumental sandstone arch created by Mother Nature, 16 meters high and as much as 26 meters long. The width of the rock structure is more than 4 meters

Getting to the Gate will not be difficult - from Grzhensk, where you can leave your car, there is a walking trail about 4 km long. to get closer to the attraction, you will have to pay entrance tickets for 75 CZK and although you are not allowed to climb the Gate, it is worth admiring it up close. Entrance ticket for children costs 25 CZK.

From the grandiose Pravchitsky Gate you can easily reach its smaller copy with a height of only 2 meters - this is the so-called Small Pravchitsky Gate. There is a fairly wide path leading to them, suitable for cycling.

Advice! Do not confuse this trail with the narrow path marked in red on the maps of the area, otherwise you will have to wander through the mountains for about an hour, although in the end you will still be able to reach the Small Pravchitsky Gate.

Schaunstein Castle

Near the Small Gate you can see a sign leading to the rock castle - this is the robber castle of Shunstein, shrouded in secrets. The road to it is quite difficult, about a kilometer long, you will have to climb steep steps and even squeeze through tunnels between the rocks. But, believe me, the views of extraordinary beauty and scale that open from the observation deck of the castle are worth the effort!

Castle "Falcon's Nest"

Very close to the Pravchitsky Gate, right in the rock in 1882, a castle with the romantic name “Falcon's Nest” was built, more reminiscent of a large hunting lodge. It has been surprisingly well preserved to this day, and today, within the walls of the ancient castle - the family estate of the Clary-Aldringens, you can enjoy dinner in a magnificently decorated restaurant overlooking the whole of Czech Switzerland. Also in the Falcon's Nest it is worth visiting a museum dedicated to this region.

Mill "Dolsky Mlyn"

This once very popular mill has now turned into ruins, but even today residents of these areas remember how many years ago the fairy tale “The Arrogant Princess” was filmed here. It’s hard to believe that the building, lost in the green forests, was once a very busy place and a crossroads center for several centuries in a row.

Village "Hrzypska"

The colorful authentic village was loved by guests of this region because it was where an ancient glass workshop once functioned, whose glassblowers produced “Bohemian glass” back in the 15th century. It seems incredible, but the workshop still cordially opens its doors to tourists today: here you can intelligently read account books of past centuries, see live how the most famous glass in the Czech Republic is blown, and at the same time buy your favorite glasses, vases or figurines made of crystal or Bohemian glass

Abandoned silver mines

Arranged in Czech Switzerland and very interesting excursions to ancient mines where silver was once mined. You can personally feel like a real miner by putting on a safety helmet and descending into the depths of the mine under the supervision of a guide.

Falkenstein Castle

Those tourists who take the time to climb higher into the mountains will be amazed by an unforgettable sight - the unusual Falkenstein Castle, located right among the rocks. The views from here, especially if you climb higher, are fabulous!

Panska Skala

This geological phenomenon is a huge 12-meter cliff, which was skillfully assembled by nature from polygonal basalt slabs. There is a similar giant in Northern Ireland, however, the Czech stone relative is quite accessible to tourists and is located 500 meters south of highway No. 13, the landmark is the village of Prachen, located 18 km from Decin.

Kamenice Gorge

To visit this picturesque gorge, you need to follow the hiking trail, marked in green on the map, from the village of Mezna to the canyon of the Kamenice river. In these marvelous lands, you will cross a wooden bridge across a 30-meter-long gorge, and then you can go down to the piers, from where gondola excursions along the Dikoe and Quiet gorges are held. If tourists follow the path marked in blue on the map, they will come to the authentic village of Mezni-Luka.

Gorges Wild and Quiet

Let's take a closer look at these gorges. Once on the steep canyon of the Kamenitsa River, travelers find themselves in places where the river is blocked by dams. Between these dams you can raft on a flat-bottomed boat led by a local gondolier. First, guests of the reserve will sail through the Wild Gorge (“Divoka Souteska”), 250 meters long, romantic and calm. But then the Quiet Gorge (“Tikha Souteska”), almost 500 meters long and “decorated” with a picturesque waterfall, the waters of which noisily flow out of the rock, awaits them.

Suha Kamenica

In early spring and autumn months, the canyon of a small stream flowing into the Laba (arm of the Elbe) fills with water and dozens of miniature waterfalls gurgle merrily between the rocks over a scattering of huge boulders. In summer, the waters dry up, and Suha Kamenica is filled with mystery and cozy silence.

Gazebo

It was once possible to reach the spectacular Belvedere observation deck, hanging over the Elbe River canyon, along a perfectly straight road coming from the castle in the town of Binovce. Tourists at the Belvedere are treated to amazing views of the curving river and bizarre sandstone rocks reminiscent of petrified giants.

Ružovsky Vrh

For those who are not afraid of steep climbs, something awaits! In the thickets of the beech forest that densely covers Mount Ruzovsky Vrch, there are many unique viewing platforms. And although there are no special attractions here, the views are worth the effort spent on climbing.

Wolf board

Having passed along the road through the canyon of the Krinitsa River, called Kiyovske Udoli and known for its unbridled beauty, tourists will come to another attraction. This is a stone slab; in the 17th century, a story was carved on it about a hunter who was able to kill two wolves at once.

From Prague to Czech Switzerland: what tourists need to know

It is worth noting that the excursion from Prague to Czech Switzerland is very popular, since the journey does not take very much time, but the pleasure received is worth it!

The reserve is open to visitors all year round: from April to October you can be on its territory from 10-00 to 18-00, and from November to March - only on weekends from 10-00 to 16-00.

How to get from Prague to Czech Switzerland

Let's consider all the options:

• Public transport: in Prague itself we take the train to the town of Decin. Here we change to shuttle bus No. 434, which will take us to Khrzhensko.
• Own or rented car: we drive along the intercity highway to the town of Decin, then from there we go to Khrzhensko. Here you can leave your car in paid parking lots and continue exploring the reserve on foot.
• Steamboat: first you have to take a train to Decin, from Decin you will need to walk about a kilometer to the pier, and from there, on a steamboat plying along the Labe River (aka Elbe), swim to the final stop, which is also located about 800 meters from Grzhenska.

Where to stay

Despite the fact that Grzhensk is a rather small town, there are no problems with accommodation here.

Relatively affordable hotels are:

• Hotel “Labe”, where bus number 434 stops. The cost of daily accommodation in a room starts from 660 CZK, and in the season (from April to the end of October) - from 730 CZK (breakfast is included in the price). Hotel website: www.labehotel.cz
• Hotel U Lipy offers accommodation in double or triple rooms, which cost 1,100 and 1,650 CZK per night respectively. Hotel website: www.hotelulipy.zaridi.to/lipa.htm

Cost of entrance ticket and excursions

The entrance ticket to the territory of the Czech Switzerland Nature Reserve costs 50 CZK. Excursions are paid separately. For example, the favorite excursion of all tourists - canoeing along the Edmund's Gorge - lasts about 15-20 minutes and costs 80 crowns for adults and half as much for children.

Other excursions vary in price and number of attractions visited. In principle, you can get a map of the territory at the entrance to the reserve and walk around those areas yourself. interesting places that attract you most.

My first trip to “Czech Switzerland” ( České Švýcarsko) was of a random nature: while preparing for a Christmas tour of European cities (the main one being Prague), I was looking for what to see in different countries and how best to plan my route. And then I came across the Pravchitsky Gate. “What is this, where is it, how is it?” - there were no answers on the Internet, which means you have to go and explore everything yourself!

And on the way from Dresden to Prague after the national park “Saxon Switzerland” (and I already talked about the trip there) I find myself in “Czech Switzerland”. The nature there is really different from what I am used to seeing in the center of the Czech Republic.

Yes, and visiting at least the main attractions promises leisure. On my second visit to the national park in summer, not winter, I spent the whole day exploring “Saxon” and “Czech” Switzerland: I left Dresden early in the morning and returned to Prague late in the evening. And this takes into account the fact that the distance between the cities is some 150 kilometers - no match for intercity trips across Russia.

I had to walk a lot, so I advise you to be fully armed: sports shoes (preferably with soft shock-absorbing soles, since after just the Pravchitsky Gate my legs were literally “humming”), comfortable clothes, a bottle of water and maybe some kind of... then a snack.

So, what is “Czech Switzerland” like and what can you see there? I'll tell you now.

History of the park

I have not heard any legends or epics around the rocks, crevices and canyons formed here several thousand years ago due to the movement of volcanic rocks.

Therefore, I had to look for interesting information myself. It turns out that in the 13th–14th centuries, colonialists were invited here from the lands where modern Germany is now located, and castles and other buildings were built by them. They also started glass production and coal mining. But due to the lack of plains and dense forests, their life was, to put it mildly, not simple and very specific. In one place, I saw with my own eyes that food and other necessary things cannot be delivered here so easily. But more on that below.

So, all this specificity was reflected in the architecture. But in the last century, many buildings and even settlements fell into disrepair. Probably, the opportunity and availability of an easier life played an important role and people simply simply moved. Now, in some places on the territory of “Czech Switzerland” you can see the most picturesque ruins!

I have already talked about the name of the park, namely the word “Switzerland,” so I will not repeat it. In 2000, this area was given the status of a national reserve.

Geography of the park

České Švýcarsko- all the same Elbe Sandstone Mountains that I talked about at More precisely, a quarter of this mountain range. National Park is located in the north of the country, its western border runs along the Elbe River. It was from there that I visited “Czech Switzerland” both times. Actually, both national parks (“Saxon” and “Czech”) are separated by the border between Germany and the Czech Republic; they are adjacent to each other.

The most high point National Park - Mount Decin Snezhnik ( Děčínský Sněžník) - located at 723 meters above sea level. When I first heard about this, I smiled: I arrived in “Czech Switzerland” shortly after the Austrian Alps, where I lived in a hotel at an altitude of approximately 1,200–1,300 meters. But, after all, the reserve is not famous for its mountains!

Further in the text I added some cards. They will help you better understand the geography of the area, but they are unlikely to explain how to get to a specific attraction. But! In the near future locality for each of them (and they are visible on my maps) you can take a detailed paper map, as well as use signs along the roads and trails. The park took care of the convenience of sightseeing, which I personally really liked.

How to get to “Czech Switzerland”

There are basically two options: with a tour or on your own. I chose to travel in a rented car without guides or a group of onlookers. But for those who want to take a tour of the reserve, I advise you to read about tours from Dresden or Prague to “Saxon Switzerland” (I think they also offer tours to the Czech part). The prices, it seems to me, are similar, because there are parks in the neighborhood. Below I will tell you about an independent journey to “Czech Switzerland” by car.

From Prague

From Prague you can enter “Czech Switzerland” from different directions. There is an option to travel through Hřensko. It is not far from this city that the Pravchitsky Gate is located. By the way, the first time I read Hřensko as Hrensko (I didn’t notice the gachek above the letter “r”, which makes the sound [rzh]), and so it happened: to this day I refer to the innocent town almost as a vegetable (everyone makes associations to the extent of depravity, right?). I marked the route Via Khrzhensko on the map below; the first half of the route will pass through the highway, and then I propose to follow a regular road past towns and picturesque fields.

You can also enter via Jetřichovice. To reach the town of Děčín, the route is the same as the previous one, and at the fork follow the signs.

Or Krasná Lípa. In theory, you can drive through the same Děčín, it seems to me that in terms of time it will not be too much of a detour.

But the last half hour flew by faster: there were still no toilets along the way, the flow of hikers was small, but there was always one, so now the attitude is “get there!” was supported not only by curiosity, but also by obvious necessity.

Along the way, I came across these cute “installations”: I don’t know who “propped up” the mountain and why, but the spectacle amused me.

And finally you can see the Falcon's Nest estate (now a hotel/restaurant of the same name) and the Pravchitsky Gate to the right of it. It would seem that you just have to extend your hand. This was not the case: the vertical distance from me to my destination was several tens of meters, which also had to be walked in a loop.

But all the efforts were justified. The height of the arch itself reaches 26 meters, so that, standing in this natural opening, you feel all the greatness of nature. In addition, near the gate there was a stall with my favorite ones. By the way, they were cheaper than: only 1.25 EUR or 34 CZK.

Once through the gate arch, you can see many paths leading to observation platforms. And literally “the whole world is at your feet.”

"Falcon's Nest"

Almost under the Pravchitsky Gate is the summer estate Falcon's Nest. Once upon a time, the owners accommodated noble guests there. Now inside the castle there is an exhibition about the history of “Czech Switzerland” and there is a restaurant.

The restaurant has preserved original paintings, and the interior is designed in the style of the beginning of the last century.

I didn’t have dinner at the restaurant, since the local employee, as I understood, had already closed it. To be honest, I couldn’t fully understand him: he agreed to speak only in Czech and German, so the conversation was almost “hands-on”. But they did let me into the toilet.

Near the Falcon's Nest there is a booth with the control of the cable car.

I understand that walking and carrying the necessary things is not easy here, so there is a utility box running along the cable car, where you can put the necessary things and send them upstairs or downstairs.

Lupežnice Castle or Schaunštejn

I heard that the castle used to be a robbery site. That is, it was built as a fortification, but later it was captured by robbers and changed its name. Šaunštejn translates as “thieves' castle”.

The castle itself has not been preserved, so at present you can be content with ruins and a good viewing platform.

Connecting bridges are laid between parts of this site. You know, the sensations are quite exciting when you walk like this literally next to an abyss along a connecting structure that is quite easy at first glance!

Dolský Mlýn

They say that the fragments preserved from the mill date back to the beginning of the 14th century!

I heard that in the middle of the last century the place even became the setting of a Czech fairy tale film. You could even say that the film glorified this landmark.

Over time, without maintenance, the mill deteriorated more and more, until in 2007 it was declared a cultural monument and the process of destruction was stopped.

By the way, a hundred meters upstream there is a unique building: a reinforced concrete bridge. I heard that this is the first such structure (made of steel and concrete) in the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the bridge was built shortly before its collapse.

The closest village to the mill is Kamenická Stráň, a kilometer away.

Royal spruce

They say that half a kilometer from the Dolskaya mill there is one spruce. Its age is about 180 years, and the trunk span is about 3 meters. Alas, I myself did not see this ancient tree, since I was limited in time, but don’t be lazy and take a walk to it from the mill.

Hřensko

To be honest, I really liked this small town almost on the border with Germany. Most likely, there are few just residents here: almost everyone runs a hotel, restaurant or something else for the needs of tourists. But the 2-3 storey houses are decorated very authentically, this is exactly how small rural towns or villages seem to me.

I also liked the fact that globally there are only two streets in Khrzhensko, running parallel along the two banks. Of course, the high cliffs do not provide room for expanding the territory deeper.

If you drive along the river from the highway where you turned to Khrzhensko (remember, I asked you to remember this path?), then at the very end of it, in front of the parking lot, which I mentioned in the part about the Pravchitsky Gate, there is a waterfall.

Near it, I took two identical pictures towards the city: one in winter, and the second in summer.

The difference, in my opinion, is not big.

There are a lot of souvenirs near the track, but I didn’t buy anything there. It’s hard to say what the prices are: on the one hand, this is the Czech Republic, on the other, Germany and its prices are quite close. There is also another parking lot; you can ask the workers about a toilet nearby.

Other attractions

There are places where I was not able to visit, but I will definitely make up for it on my next visit:

• Dittersbacher peaks.
• Waterfalls near Brtnikov.
• A boat trip along the Křinice River (Kirnitzschklamm) on the border of the Czech Republic and Germany.

And this is just what remained in my ears after the trip. I'm almost sure that if you start digging, less touristy places in the national park might come up.

Routes around the park

At the moment, there are dozens of well-marked hiking trails and routes in the park: signs, certain specific coverage and relief for the type of tourism, picturesqueness. In “Czech Switzerland” you can go rock climbing, horseback riding, cycling, and camping in equipped areas (and only in them!).

True, I explored the territory on my own, without resorting to the help of tourist centers, but I can tell you the addresses of organizations that will help, if necessary, organize your leisure time:

• In the city of Krasná Lipa.
  • Opening hours: June - August from 09:00 to 18:00, January - February until 16:00, in other months until 17:00; break from 12:00 to 12:30.
  • Address: Krinicke nam. 5, Krasna Lipa 407 46.
• In Hřensko.
  • Opening hours: November - January from 09:00 to 17:00, in other months until 18:00.
  • Address: Hřensko 71, 407 17 Hřensko.
• In Srbska Kamenice.
  • Address: Nam. Miru 73, Ceska Kamenice, 407 21.
• In Jetřichovice.
  • Address: Jetšichovice 393, CZ - 407 16.

Among the main routes, I know, there are:

• To the rock gate (Pravchitsky): along ornate stones and paths, then along the rock wall (I passed it too). Then the “Falcon's Nest” program - a visit to observation platforms on the tops of the rocks near the gate.
• To the Dolskaya mill.
• To Schaunstein.

Where to stay

If you want to choose camping over a hotel, then in the above-mentioned tourist centers you should inquire about special parking lots; you cannot set up a tent camp outside of equipped campsites: it is a specially protected area.

If you are more attracted to the east, then choose Krasna Lipa or Hřibská.

Room prices start from 8–10 EUR for a campsite and from 45 EUR for a double room.

"Czech Switzerland" in winter

I was in the national park in winter, but their winter was quite slushy at that time, so walking along the forest paths was out of the question. Falcon's Nest Castle is, again, a summer castle. So we had to be content with waterfalls on rivers and towns around “Czech Switzerland”.

If you want to see much more of the above, I recommend coming in the summer!

, .

Anything to add?

Czech Switzerland- a beautiful corner of nature in the north-west of the Czech Republic. The area adjoins the German Saxon Switzerland and is famous for its unusually shaped limestone cliffs, gorges and dense forests located in the Elbe River basin. In 2000, an area of ​​79 km2 officially became a national park and came under state protection. On the territory of this park there are several small settlements - starting points from where you can follow tourist routes, getting acquainted with the beautiful nature of this reserve. And Grzensko is the best of them.

Hřensko is a very nice and hospitable border town located near the border with Germany on the banks of the river Elbe. This picturesque village with half-timbered houses is considered the gateway to the Czech Switzerland National Nature Reserve and, at the same time, the place where the Elbe River says goodbye to the Czech Republic.
How we got there:
1. from Prague railway station by train to Děčín - ticket price 159 CZK;
2. by bus from Decin to Hřensko - ticket price 27 CZK.
All information on transport in the Czech Republic can be found.

We buy tickets to the side Decin, we take the train and go to Decin. By the way, the tickets are not tied to any train in time, the purchased ticket is valid for two days and the more people there are, the cheaper the tickets; for four of us we got 501 CZK. An even bigger discount comes when purchasing tickets in both directions at once.
In Decin we board 434 bus, which will take us to Grzhensko. There is a stop right opposite the station, but to be sure, we got to the bus station. The bus does not travel often - once every 2 hours (every hour on weekends), so we had time to take a walk and have a little snack.
We buy tickets right on the bus and go to Grzhensko.
And here is the sign “Hrensko” (you should read not “Hrensko”, but “Hrensko” or, at worst, “Hrensko”).
The Czech water slowly flows along the road Laba from the German side it is called more familiar to us - Elbe.
From Grzensko there is a ferry to the other bank of the Elbe (Laba), where Germany is already located. And a steamboat runs from Decin to Grzensko. Also, many come here by car. Previously, the border was closed. But after the Czech Republic joined the European Union, everything changed. Now this is a border crossing.
A beautiful view of the most beautiful wooded cliffs of amazing shapes and sizes opens up as you approach the Czech border.
These rocks are a real miracle of nature.
The entire small town of Grzhensko stretches out on both sides of the river Kamenitsa, which originates in the mountains, and here flows into the Elbe.
Along the edges of the gorge, like entrance towers, stand the information center and the Labe Hotel.
“Labe” looks especially impressive - it seems as if a rock is leaning against it.
The history of the region in which the village of Grzhensko is located began in the 15th century. Near the mouth of the Kamenice River there was a timber storage facility, and a mill also operated. Already in the 18th century there were four sawmills here, there were also several places for raft tying, and wood was rafted to remote places. A special feature was the powerful hundred-year-old trunks supplied to naval shipyards for the masts of large sailing ships. Next important industry there was mining and processing of sandstone, which was transported even to Dresden. People also made a living by smuggling (Podloudnice trail). Salt, tobacco, cloth and other goods were transported here. In the 19th century, tourism began to develop in Grzensko, supported by the owner of the lordship, Edmund Clary-Aldringen. In the 30s of the 19th century, the path from Hřensko to the Pravčicka Gate was improved, hotels, boarding houses and inns arose.
And this is the main city square, as miniature as the whole city. On it, built in 1786-87, is the Baroque Church of St. John of Nepomuk, in front of which stands his sculpture created in 1756.
To please the Germans, rows of Vietnamese merchants with cheap (compared to Germany) prices stretched across the city.
An unusual phenomenon in the town is a lively trade in gnomes and statues for vegetable gardens. This unusual item of trade creates a very cute and funny picture, a feeling of some kind of magic. A wide variety of gnomes and other fairy-tale characters are waiting for their new owners.
Due to its position at the confluence of the Labe and Kamenice rivers, Grzensko, with its 150 m above sea level, is the lowest located place in Czech Republic. Despite the very low altitude above sea level, the surrounding nature creates a very interesting effect, thanks to which you will feel as if you are in the mountains.

A little advice for tourists: life in Grzensko ends at 20.00 local time. So you need to have time to eat and drink beer before this time. And shops and shopping arcades close even earlier.

The series of houses along Kamenica is completed by the Praha Hotel, one of the best in the city. And the entire Hřensko from “Labe” to “Praha” can be walked in 15 minutes.

Hřensko is the starting point for excursions to Pravcicka Gate- the largest natural rock bridge on our continent and to the river gorges Kamenice, where you can ride boats and listen to the stories of the ferryman.
And it is these tourist routes that I will talk about in the following parts of our trip to Czech Switzerland:

“České Švýcarsko”, and this is exactly what the name of the reserve, which is located in the north-west of the country, near the border with Germany, sounds like in Czech. On the other side of the border, Switzerland becomes Saxon.

But since the borders in Schengen are conditional, and even more so inside the park, we will consider both halves of the reserve together, like Czech-Saxon Switzerland.

Bohemian-Saxon Switzerland in all its glory.

Where did Switzerland come from in the Czech Republic?

According to legend, in the 19th century, two Swiss went to restore the Dresden Gallery at the invitation of the Elector himself, and were very surprised to find sandstone mountains nearby, very reminiscent of their native ones. And of course, the friends spent all their free time on the slopes, as a result they christened this place with the name of their homeland. This name stuck because the landscape really is very reminiscent of Switzerland. By that time, these mountains already had the status of a natural reserve, and since the beginning of 2000 they have been national reserve"Czech Switzerland".

True, it is difficult to call these places mountains, since the highest point of the park - Děčínský Sněžník - is located at an altitude of 723 meters. But, nevertheless, it is the rock formations and canyons in them that fascinate many visiting tourists, and the Pravčická brána, which is considered the symbol of the park, is also the largest naturally occurring mountain arch in Europe. At present, it is impossible to get to the arch due to the danger of its possible collapse, but there are several observation platforms in the area, in the most interesting viewing places.

The ancient stone observation tower at the top has the same name as the mountain itself - Děčínský Sněžník. Best view The view of Czech Switzerland opens from this tower.

How to get there on your own?

The easiest way is to purchase a tour in advance via the Internet or directly in Prague and forget about the need to invent and develop your own leisure time. The approximate cost of an excursion at a travel agency office in 2019 is 40 €, when booking online - about 32 €.

Here are excerpts from Lydia’s review:

“Perhaps the most unforgettable event of our trip was the excursion to Czech Switzerland...
The great Danish storyteller G.H. Andersen visited this place and drew inspiration from contemplating the local beauty...
We boarded a boat that looked more like a Venetian gondola...
Every now and then our eyes would see funny figures carved out of wood, obviously for the amusement of tourists, and in one place our cheerful gondolier pulled a string, bringing down a real waterfall in front of us...”

Olga writes in her review:

“There is beauty all around! And you don't know where to look. If in the Czech part the nature reserve seemed quiet, peaceful, calm, then the Saxon part of it, on the contrary, is full of majesty, grandeur, you feel helpless in front of all the power of nature...
Amazing landscapes open up from the heights of the Bastei Mountains. And here is the famous Bastei Bridge. It is built of sandstone, that is, the same mountains served as the material for it...”

But many travelers prefer to act independently, gaining additional freedom.

How to get to Czech Switzerland yourself?

So, the shortest way to the park is by train, from Prague Mosarikov station to Děčín, a city near the reserve. The journey takes about two hours. If accommodation near the park has been booked in advance, then most likely the hotel’s services include meeting guests at the station and transfer to the hotel. Or you can get to Hřensko on your own, by bus or taxi. It's already very close.

By the way, you can take a boat from Decin to the park, to the pier in the village of Shmilka, and from there it’s about a kilometer to Hřensko.

Chug-chug. We arrived, here is the main station of the city Děčín. We should go out.

But the most interesting way to get to Czech Switzerland is, of course, the road (see photo above), which runs along the Elbe bed and is full of additional natural beauties. This is what tourists write in reviews after visiting the park: “It is along the Labe (Elbe) that the most beautiful landscapes appear before your eyes: either thickets of water lilies, or a lonely boat on the river bank, or cute houses with brown roofs along the shore, or a castle...”

The journey by car from Dresden will take about 45 minutes, from Prague - about an hour and a half.

Accommodation

In Czech Switzerland there are several hotels of various levels offering a full range of tourism services. Among mid-level hotels, we can recommend “Labe”, located in Hřensko, at the intersection of many hiking trails, with parking and cozy rooms.

Hotel Labe means Elbe in Czech.

Also interesting is the Belveder Hotel, located on the top of a cliff overlooking the Elbe River canyon.

Here you can see a piece of the Belveder Hotel with an observation deck. High... Very high... If you are planning to climb there, take a diaper with you, just in case.

Automobile travelers can stay in campsites also available in the park.

For passionate lovers of outdoor recreation, there is another one in the Czech Republic. Fabulous sunsets for lyricists, around - for gothic lovers, playgrounds, waterslides and attractions - for children, bicycles and boats - for fatties and athletes, and, of course, royal fishing - for those who cannot imagine themselves without a fishing rod in their hands.

The main attraction of the park is the already mentioned Pravčická brána, a huge sandstone arch, the largest in Europe. Its height is 16 meters and width is 26 meters. Not only a train, but also an airplane can pass through such gates. You can get an unforgettable sight by walking through the arch and enjoying the grandeur and power of nature.

Near Brannoy, built into the rock is the ancient hunting house “Falcon's Nest”, built in the 19th century and which was the summer castle of the Clari-Aldringen family. The castle now houses a reserve museum and a restaurant with original woodwork and ceiling paintings from the nineteenth century.

What to do in the park?

Czech swiss mountains although not big, they are still mountains. And the activities here are predominantly mountain - mountaineering, trekking and rafting, but naturally in the simplest form, for unprepared participants.

By the way, sandstone rocks are easily subjected to atmospheric treatment and over time acquire surprisingly unusual features, like piles of individual huge boulders with rounded edges, inexplicably held on top of each other. Due to the soft nature of the rock, mountaineering is not particularly difficult; ascents often occur without additional equipment. But this is only permissible for people with training. U ordinary tourists There is an opportunity to feel like rock climbers only in safety equipment and under the supervision of an instructor.

The entire Czech-Saxon Switzerland is dotted with many specially equipped walking paths of varying levels of difficulty and length. The schematic layout of their location can be found in tourist brochures and on the map, and you can navigate by the signs posted on the routes. This type of outdoor recreation energizes you with vigor and muscle tone for a long time.

There are also specially laid routes for cycling with a rise of up to 300 meters. Several categories of difficulty and length, from 20 to 44 kilometers, with visits to the main attractions, with a picnic or lunch along the way. You can rent a bicycle in the park or at hotels. You can also start the cycling route from Decin.

And there is everything for cycling.

In hot weather, it is very pleasant to go on a short rafting trip through narrow canyons, refreshing yourself with the spray of waterfalls cascading down close to the boat. This kind of entertainment is absolutely safe, the tributaries of the Elbe are light and calm.

Czech - amazing country, full of interesting things, with a mentality of the inhabitants and culture that is kindred and close to the Russian people. But if the time of satiety begins and once again the question arises - where to go in the Czech Republic, then go to Switzerland. In the Czech Republic it is also there, and it’s the real one.

Saxony is famous for its works of art, luxurious city architecture, and ancient castles. Also this one amazing land rich in beautiful nature and cozy resort towns. On every trip we try to diversify the program. We decided to devote the second day of our trip to Saxony to natural attractions. The main goal of this day is to visit the national parks of Saxon and Czech Switzerland.

Read the route of the first day in Saxony here:

Saxon Switzerland is located just 50 km southeast of Dresden and 80 km from Meissen. And again here I will tell you about the advantages independent travel. Tourist buses stop at the Bastei Bridge in Saxon Switzerland on the way from Prague to Dresden. But Czech Switzerland is an unexplored tourist destination for organized tourists. Mostly independent travelers arrive in the town of Hřensko, the starting point on the route through Czech Switzerland. We combined these natural parks in one day route. The road passed through the town of Pirna, where we stopped for an hour. But first things first.

Route of the second day in Saxony.

Meissen - Pirna - Saxon Switzerland (near Lomen) - Bad Schandau - Czech Switzerland (near Hrensko) - Decin (overnight).

Pirna is a cozy resort town.

The first stop on our route was the city of Pirna. The town is located 25 km southeast of Dresden on the banks of the Elbe River. Along the excellent German road, we didn’t notice how we arrived in Pirna.

First of all, we look for where to park the car. I really liked the organization of parking in this city, as in Germany in general.

Plenty of parking spaces in the center, next to the Old Town. There are open parking areas, but we chose level parking. It’s interesting that instead of a restaurant or hotel in Pirna, a 4-story parking lot was built for about 80-100 cars.

Parking rates are affordable.

Everything inside is compact.

When we returned, we paid for parking at the cash machine at the entrance.

To pay for parking, we inserted a parking ticket into the slot, which we took from the machine at the entrance (pictured on the left). We paid at the cash machine in cash. As a result, we received a receipt for payment. (pictured right). When leaving, it was inserted into the slot of the parking machine.

Walk through the Old Town of Pirna took us about 1 hour. But this time was enough for us to fall in love with the town. We would love to stay here for a few days. Well, how can this not impress?! home Marktplaz area.

Pirna- amazingly colorful ancient Saxon market town. It is already about 8 centuries old. Viewers of the popular German TV channel MDR named Pirna the second most beautiful city in Saxony. Many tourists come to this resort town. Pirna is called the gateway to Saxon Switzerland - a national park with many hiking, mountaineering and cycling routes. There are many ancient castles near the city. There is a water park in Pirna called Geibeltbad Pirna with swimming pools and saunas for relaxation after an active holiday.

Pirna is famous for its good wine. The Saxon Wine Route tourist route begins from this city, runs along the Elbe and ends in (the town we talked about in the last article).

There is a large selection of good hotels, apartments, guest houses in Pirna. To find and book accommodation, just follow the direct links below:

For profitable special offers and promotions of Pirna hotels, see the form below:

Pirna is also known as a global supplier of sandstone. Many buildings and sculptures in the city are made from this stone. For the first time in the world, sandstone even became a material for a modern local playground. Saxon sandstone blocks from Pirna were supplied in ancient times and now also to many countries around the world. Famous European imperial palaces were built from stone quarried in Pirna. For example, the luxurious palaces, sculptures and churches of Dresden. The slogan of the modern city is “Pirna – Sandstein voller Leben”, which means “Pirna – sandstone filled with life”.

We head along the shopping street from the parking lot to the Old Town of Pirna. The resort is just waking up. Some shops are still open.

Very original and cute souvenirs.

We go out to the main square of the Old Town (Altstadt). It's called Marktplatz, which means "market square". Since ancient times there have been shopping malls here. Interestingly, the Old Quarter was restored relatively recently - in the 1990s. Many buildings were damaged during Allied bombing in 1945. Pirna was heavily damaged by floods in 2002 and 2013. But after being flooded by the waters of the Elbe, the city was put back in order again. Around is the traditional German “ordnung”. Everything is somehow “elegant and gingerbread”, a very pleasant atmosphere.

There is an old well on the square with water flowing from the tap. We don’t know if it’s safe to drink, but it can be refreshing on a hot summer day))

In the center of the square rises Town Hall. She's on the left in the photo. The building was built in 1396. For many centuries, the Town Hall was a place for trade. Here were the shops of merchants, shoemakers, clothiers, and bakers. It is now a city administrative building.

Above the main entrance to the Town Hall there are ancient sundial and coat of arms of the city of Pirna with red lions and golden pears on a tree.

On the other side of the Town Hall, a beautiful clock with a golden-black dial is clearly visible. They also have moon calendar, the phases of the moon are depicted. Under the clock is the coat of arms of the city of Pirna from 1549, and below is the old Saxon coat of arms from 1555. They are both made of the city's emblematic stone, sandstone.

White building Canalettohaus with a pointed Gothic roof and windows, it was built on the square in 1520. The house is named after the medieval Venetian landscape painter, court artist of the Saxon Elector Frederick Augustus III Bernardo Bellotto, known as Canaletto. He painted city landscapes. He liked Pirna so much that the artist dedicated 11 paintings to her in 1753-55. Some of these works are presented in the Dresden Gallery.

This picturesque house on Marktplatz now houses an exhibition of copies of Canaletto’s paintings and a tourist center. In it we took free card city, along which a further walking route around Pirna was built.

There is a very tragic and terrible moment in the history of Pirna. It is connected to the castle, which rises on a hill above the Old Town. It is clearly visible from many streets and from central square. In the photo - high on the right behind the white Canaletto house. We don’t plan to go up to it, but we will tell about its tragedy.

This is Sonnentscheit Castle, its name in German Sonnenstein, literally translated as “sun stone”. The castle was built on the mountain in the 13th century. From 1811 to 1942 it housed a psychiatric hospital.

During the Second World War, Sonnenstein Castle became a testing ground where methods of mass extermination of people were developed. It all started in 1934 after the National Socialists, led by Hitler, came to power. At that time, the ideas of “racial purity” were embodied in the country. How unfit people were sterilized or killed, people suffering from hereditary, mental, serious illnesses, and disabled people. Officially, the process was called “euthanasia” or “death for good.” This was done in several treatment centers and psychiatric hospitals in Germany. Among them was Sonnenstein. The methods were different: patients were starved, given drugs in large doses, and lethal injections were given.

The Sonnenstein psychiatric hospital was one of the first to launch the “T-4 death program” and began mass extermination of sick people in gas chambers. The crematorium ovens were also built here. In two years, from 1940 to 1942, almost 15 thousand people were killed here, more than 1000 of them prisoners of war. After such “tests,” gas chambers for “racial cleansing” were installed in Auschwitz and other concentration camps. In 1947, the chief physician and orderlies of the Sonnenstein Hospital were sentenced to death.

Since 1970, a rehabilitation center for the disabled has been operating in the castle. And since 2012, after reconstruction, individual halls and the garden of Sonnenstein Castle are open to visitors. In the photo, on the horizon at the end of the street you can see a castle on a hill.

From Markplatz we headed towards the main St. Mary's City Church This is a large, beautiful Lutheran church, built in 1546. Its 60-meter Gothic tower is visible from afar.

Inside the church there are unique sights from the 16th century: the original 10-meter stone altar, a stone baptismal font with 26 miniature sculptures of children. They are created (like the entire temple) from local sandstone. Also in the Church of St. Mary are paintings from 1544-1546 with scenes from the Bible and an ancient organ. The church hosts classical music concerts.

It is clear that the town is a resort - it wakes up late. We were unable to get into St. Mary's Cathedral. It turned out that it opens only at 11-00. The morning resort of Pirna, along with shops and cafes, is just waking up (and this is at 10! in the morning).

The main entrance to the city's St. Mary's Church.

A walk along Pirna in the morning is very pleasant. Tourists are just waking up and you can enjoy the almost deserted streets and squares of the city. There are many old houses around. Each of them has its own history and keeps its secrets.

The old building in the photo on the right is now a restaurant, and in the Middle Ages, from 1578, there was a pharmacy “Golden Lion”.

Above the entrance to the house there is a figure of a golden lion and a memorial plaque. It is dedicated to the hero of Pirna - the city pharmacist Theophilus Jacobaer. It says: “T.H. lived here.” Jakobaer - the savior of our city on September 25, 1659." During the 30 Years' War, Swedish troops captured Pirna - they robbed, destroyed, and abused the inhabitants. They planned to burn the city. The pharmacist, having learned about this, went to Dresden and through the court appealed to the Saxon princess Magdalena, a friend of the Queen of Sweden, with a request to cancel the decision to destroy the city. Pirna was saved, and Theophilus Jacobaer became a hero and received privileges in the pharmaceutical and brewing business as a reward.

The city library of Pirna is housed in an old house from the 17th century. Above the entrance is a lion's head portal from 1770, carved from Saxon sandstone.

You can see exquisite old balconies on many buildings in Pirna. They have been preserved since the 16th and 17th centuries.

And in this house, on the way to the Marienbad resort, the famous German poet Goethe stayed in April 1813. In 1925, the leader of the German communists, Ernst Thälmann, gave a speech.

This original monument was recently installed in Pirna. It is dedicated to the most outstanding citizens of the city in its entire history: the burgomaster, the first bishop, the trumpeter, merchants, ordinary people who did their job every day.

The interesting City Museum of Pirna is housed in the ancient building of the Dominican monastery, founded here in 1300 (address: Klosterhof 2/3).

The Dominican Monastery and Church of St. Henry were restored and became operational for parishioners in the 1990s.

The tall stele was erected in Pirna by order of Elector Augustus the Strong in 1722. It bears the coat of arms of the royal family. By the way, she is depicted in Canaletto’s paintings. On this pillar are engraved the ancient names of various German cities and the distance to them from Pirna in hours. 1 hour is equal to approximately 4.5 km. For example, before German town Annaburg - 25 hours, or almost 112 km. The distance to Meisen, where we came from today, is 17 hours or 76 km. An interesting system for measuring distances))) Everything is logical, the most practical information at that time about the amount of travel time. Why these kilometers in the 17th century))

The Germans care about the environment; electric bicycles have been added to electric vehicles. Here is a free charger for such bikes.

Getting to know the cozy resort town of Pirna left a warm impression. And we are heading to the natural attractions of Saxony. We crossed the bridge. Along the way, we look at the modern part of Pirna, already on the other bank of the Elbe.

Saxon Switzerland. Bastei Bridge.

Saxon Switzerland is a national park with a stunningly picturesque mountain landscape 30 km southeast of Dresden. It occupies an area of ​​9.5 thousand hectares on the border of Germany and the Czech Republic. Its neighbor is the Czech Switzerland National Park. Both parks are part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains, which are part of the Eastern Ore Mountains.

Where does this name come from and what does “Switzerland” have to do with it? Until the 18th century, this area was called the Meissen Plateau. Swiss artists Anton Graf and Adrian Tsing, who taught at the Dresden Academy of Arts, chose these places. The mountainous area above the Elbe with gorges, waterfalls and ancient castles reminded them of their native Switzerland and mountain range Yura. Hence the name “Saxon Switzerland”.

We came here for such beauty)))

In the 1800s, Swiss artists traveled here themselves and invited other landscape painters for inspiration and beautiful views. Masters of brushwork and photography still travel to Saxon Switzerland today. Throughout the park, through all the main natural and architectural attractions, one of the most beautiful tourist routes in modern Germany, Malerweg, which means “Artists' Trail,” stretches for 112 km. It offers the most breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape. Interestingly, in 2016 it was included in the top three most popular routes in the world.

In the 18th century, following the artists, tourists and climbers flocked here. Shops, a restaurant, and a hotel were opened for them. In 1824, the famous Bastei Bridge was built between the rocks. Today it is one of the most popular attractions in Saxony.

The most convenient way to get to the Bastei Bridge is by car, you can also do this by S-Bann train to Raten or Wehlen, by bus from Pirna (No. 237, 238) and Bad Schandau (No. 253), or in the summer by boat from Dresden. If you are traveling by car, it is easier and faster to get to the Saxon Switzerland park through the town of Lohmen. That's what we did.

Following the signs, we drove into the parking lot near the main entrance to the park. Parking costs 3 euros. Entrance to the Saxon Switzerland park is free. The fee is charged only for walking through the remains of the 13th century Neurathen fortress. These are bridges between the mountains beyond the Bastei Bridge. The price for 4 of us is 12 euros.

Helpful advice: For a walk in Saxon or Czech Switzerland, comfortable clothing, covered shoes, water are required, and in summer a hat is advisable. Even though it was hot, we all changed into sports sneakers. There are many rocky trails in the parks.

Next to the parking lot is the entrance to the Saxon Switzerland National Park. There are information stands with maps and information about the park in different languages.

We turned from main road to the side path. Such a breathtaking panorama opened up. Mountains of such an elongated shape with a flat top and steep edges are called table mountains. One hundred million years ago, during the Mesozoic era, there was an ancient ocean in this place. The sand settled to the bottom hundreds of meters and in several layers. When the ocean waters left, volcanoes split the sandy bottom into many parts. The formation of the unique landscape was completed by water and wind.

The main path led us to the hotel, souvenir shops and restaurants. In 1812, the first restaurant was built near the Bastei Bridge, and a little later - the Berghotel Bastei. This hotel has a rich history and an excellent reputation. Today the Berghotel Bastei is the winner of numerous awards. It is considered one of the best in Saxony.

There is even a service for dogs)))

Behind the restaurant and hotel there are several rocky trails with many steps, all equipped with handrails. Even though you walk between the peaks of the mountains, you feel safe (this is information for those who are afraid of heights))). And if you look down and around, the unreal beauty will take your breath away.

First of all, we went to the observation deck with stunning “postcard” views. She is on high cliff, which rises 194 m above the Elbe. This is what we dreamed of seeing when we were planning our trip!

The people on the site are like sardines in a barrel. We made our way to the railing. A “dream photo” against the background and alone is a rare success here. And this is on a weekday. Where would we be without the “pink blouse” in the background))).

In the distance is Mount Lilienstein, the largest table mountain in Saxon Switzerland. To the right of it, on a smaller mountain, rises the Königstein Fortress, a powerful fortification structure of the 12th century. IN different times it served as a defensive fortress, a monastery, a prison, a prisoner of war camp and a storage site for paintings at the Dresden Gallery during the Second World War. In Konigstatt, the alchemist Johann Betherr, a prisoner of the fortress, imprisoned there on the orders of Elector Augustus the Strong, invented the first European porcelain in 1709. This began the production of the now famous Königstein Fortress, a popular tourist attraction in Saxony.

The picturesque bend of the Elbe. You can see below ferry crossing and two shores of the city - the resort of Rathen. This small ancient town - climatic resort. Here is the cleanest air, a calm atmosphere, the unique nature of Saxon Switzerland with mountains, waterfalls, Lake Amselsee, a rhododentron park, nearby the ancient fortresses of Königstein, Stolpen and Lohmen, waterfalls, the Bastei Bridge, the Miniature attraction Railway", summer Rathen theater among the rocks.

The ferry in Rathen is a unique, eco-friendly form of transport that still operates using technology invented by the Dutch back in the 17th century. It moves without a motor and without polluting exhaust gases. This is a cable ferry. It is held in place by a long cable that stretches several hundred meters upstream along the river and is anchored near the shore.

The ferry runs regularly from one side of Rathen to the other. This is convenient for independent travelers who come here by train. by boat from Dresden or stop at hotels in Rathen. To get from Rathen to the Bastei Bridge, you need to cross the Elbe by ferry. A ferry ticket costs 1 euro (children: 0.50 euros) one way, round trip - 1.80 euros (children: 0.80 euros). Further along the famous “Artists' Trail” you need to climb to the Bastei Bridge. The climb up the steep path with many steps can take 30-60 minutes, depending on your fitness.

And we continue our walk along the paths and steps of the park. Another bridge and a wonderful panorama of Saxon Switzerland.

Does the color of these mountains remind you of anything? The famous noble shade of palaces and churches! They were built from Saxon sandstone, which was quarried in the area. Stone mining proceeded at such a pace that the existence of Bastai and the surrounding area was threatened. In the 18th century, people rose to the defense unique mountains. Nature reserves were gradually created, and after the fall of the Berlin Wall and the unification of Germany, this territory was united into the huge Saxon Switzerland National Park, and in the neighboring state - the Czech Switzerland National Park. Now the original natural landscape is protected by the state, and sandstone mining is regulated by law.

The famous Bastei Bridge rises 40 meters above the gorge. Its 7 arches fit organically into the mountain landscape. The length of the bridge is 76.5 m - such a long observation deck with magnificent views of the surrounding area! First wooden bridge built on this site in 1924. Over time, it fell into disrepair and the planks became dangerous to walk on. In two years in 1854, a new one was erected a stone bridge from local sandstone.

The Bastei Bridge is one of the most visited attractions in Saxony. There are always a lot of tourists here.

The original round observation deck on the bridge. Miraculously we took pictures without tourists in the background))

There are memorial plaques on the rocks.

On the other side of the Bastei Bridge - behind a wooden palisade are the remains of Czech castle XIII century Neurathen. (The entrance fee here is 3 euros). He guarded the borders of the Czech Republic and trade routes on the Elbe. It was one of the largest impregnable fortresses of that time. It occupied an area 700 m long and 100 m wide. Fortifications were built on the flat tops of rocks connected by log bridges. There was also a drawbridge here. The castle was destroyed by fire in 1469. In 1485 it passed from the Czech Republic into the possession of the Saxon Margraviate of Meissen. Now practically nothing has survived from it: the remains of walls, an ancient water storage facility, a catapult and large stone cannonballs that were once fired at enemies from the heights of the fortress.

The paths of the castle of the Neurathen fortress (pictured on the right) offer amazing views of the surrounding area.

Beautiful pictures of the nature of Saxon Switzerland and from the Bastei Bridge.

Saxon Switzerland is very popular among climbers. Can you see the climber?

And he is))

Although there are a lot of tourists here, so sometimes there was a traffic jam on the paths, the park is definitely worth a visit. Saxon Switzerland is very cozy, beautiful and unusual.

We are moving towards the next destination of today's route - Czech Switzerland. The road passes through the resort town of Bad Schandau. It is known for its excellent rehabilitation and health resorts, Wellness centers, healing thermal baths, good resort hotels. Interestingly, Bad Schandau is the smallest city in the world with a tram. Also in Bad Schandau (Dresdner Str. 2 B) there is an information center for the Saxon Switzerland National Park. This is an interactive exhibition that tells about the flora and fauna, history and modernity of the park.

We enter the city of Bad Schandau.

The road runs along the Elbe.

We stopped at a local supermarket, bought German beer and goodies at good prices. For example, a 0.5 liter bottle of the famous Saxon beer Radeberg costs about 0.50 cents. For comparison, a bottle of Coca-Cola is twice as expensive))

This is the view of the Elbe from the supermarket parking lot.

And here we are again in the Czech Republic. Former checkpoint on the border between Germany and the Czech Republic. Now the Elbe is changing its name - it sounds in Czech “Labe”))) The road here is very picturesque: on one side there are the waters of the Labe River, and on the other the cliffs of the Elbe Canyon rise.

Czech Switzerland, or lost in the Lost World.

On the border with Germany lies an equally beautiful “neighbor” of Saxon Switzerland - the Czech Switzerland National Park. This is part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains in the Czech Republic. Stunning nature, unique mountain landscape, deep gorges, caves, clean air, silence, many hiking and cycling routes, ancient castles and authentic houses, fabulous sculptures and local legends - this is what Czech Switzerland is rich in.

We arrived at Hřensko (Grensko, Czech Republic). It is called the gateway to the Bohemian Switzerland National Park. The town is located 55 km from Dresden, 130 km from Prague, 40 km from the Bastei Bridge in Saxon Switzerland and only 10 km from the town of Decin, where we plan to stay overnight.

What is unique about Grzhensko: This is the lowest area in the Czech Republic. The city is located only 115 m above sea level, although thanks to the surrounding cliffs, it does not feel that way. The nature and climate around Hřensko are also unusual - mountain plants thrive in the lowlands. What adds to the exoticism is that there are more Chinese in this town than local residents. What are the Chinese doing here? And they sell souvenirs and Chinese clothes.

Grzensko consists of practically one street along the small river Kamenice, which flows into the Labe.

The architecture of the ancient houses of Grzhensko is very colorful. Next to the luxurious palaces and hotels of the 19th century, here under the overhanging rocks there are neat older rural houses.

The town was founded here in the 15th century. A large shopping mall ran along the Elbe Czech way. At first, on the site of Grzhensko there was a tavern, where merchants and tree raftsmen came to rest and refresh themselves. Later, workers built huts near the storage facilities for grain and wood, salt and glass. Since the 17th century, Grzensko became a large trading city. In these places they harvested and processed wood, ground grain in three large mills, mined sandstone, traded mushrooms, salt, charcoal, and even smuggled goods. In the summer of 1838, the first steamships began to ply along the Elbe.

On the left in the photo are the ancient buildings of Hřnesko and the Church of St. John of Nepomuk, built in 1787.

Only in the 19th century did the enterprising owner of the lordship, Prince Edmund Clary-Aldringen, realize how attractive his land was for tourists. He began to actively develop the tourist destination. In the 1830s, hotels and inns were built in Grzhensk. In 1862, a company appeared in the city that sold photographs and postcards with the sights of Hřensko.

In 1879, the Mountain Community of Bohemian Switzerland was created. Its members built and equipped railings, steps, benches, bridges hiking trails and observation decks, also published popular magazines and held meetings. In 1898, two gorges with boat crossings opened to visitors. During World War II, a branch of the Hitlerite aircraft factory operated in the adits of Grzhensk. The city and park of Bohemian Switzerland were revived for tourists after 1964, when the trails and gorges were reopened after reconstruction.

One of the famous attractions of the park is Pravcicka Gate, or Pravcicka Braná, in Czech - Pravčická brána. This is a huge sandstone arch, which was formed millions of years ago by natural “sculptors” - volcanoes, water, wind. Its maximum height is 21 m. An 8-meter arch bridge connects two sand mountains. The trail to Pravčicka Brana has been open to tourists since the 1830s. Interestingly, the famous storyteller Hans Christian Andersen climbed here.

Nearby is the Falcon's Nest castle, built in 1881. The former summer residence of Prince Edmund Clary-Aldringen, the founder of the tourist destination in the development of Czech Switzerland. The castle was erected within a year by Italian craftsmen on the site of a wooden pub. Now there is a National Park Museum on the second floor, and on the first floor there is a restaurant in which the original wall paintings have been preserved. The Pravčicka brane offers a wonderful view of the surrounding area.

Many sources claim that this is the largest “natural bridge” in Europe and the world, but we have seen more on. On about. Gozo has the Azure Window. The stone arch rises 28 meters above the sea. The numbers sound dry, but nothing can compare the delight and surprise when you see such an incredibly powerful and majestic natural structure nearby.

Malta, o. Gozo, Azure Window

Today we had already admired the mountain landscape from the Bastei Bridge in Saxon Switzerland, so for a change we decided to take a walk in the remaining half day along the bottom of the gorge Edmund And go boating on the Kamenica River.

Practical information about Czech Switzerland:

Required: comfortable clothes, closed sports shoes, a hat in summer, and bring water with you.

Entrance to the Bohemian Switzerland Park is free. For boats and Brana, payment is accepted in crowns and euros.

• Pravčická brána

Price walks along the paths and observation platforms Pravcicka Brana - 75 CZK (3 euros) - adult, 25 CZK (1 euro) - children's ticket.

• Edmund's Gorge

Working hours: From April to September the boats operate from 9-00 to 18-00, in October - from 9-00 to 17-00 every day. The last boat in the direction of Grzhensko leaves at 18:00, and in the direction of Mezna at 17:30. (in October, accordingly, an hour earlier)

Riding cost on the boat: 80 CZK (3 EUR) - adult, 40 CZK (1.5 EUR) - child ticket.

• Wild Gorge

Working hours: From April to September from 9-00 to 17-00, in October from 9-00 to 16-00 daily. The last boat in the direction of Grzhensko leaves at 17-00, and in the direction of Mezna Luka - at 16-30. (in October, accordingly, an hour earlier)

Boat ride price: 60 CZK (2.5 EUR) - adult, 30 CZK (1 EUR) - child ticket.

How to get to Hrzensko by public transport: Regular buses go here almost every hour from Decin (the journey takes 15-20 minutes) and Bad Schandau. They can also take you deeper into the park, to the villages of Mezhna or Mezhni Luka, from which hiking routes around the park begin. You can also travel by boat from Decin, from the German cities of Bad Schandau, Dresden and Meissen. And these cities can be easily reached by train.

Buses run through the park, stop locations are marked on the map with a BUS sign.

Parking: There are 4 municipal parking lots and several private ones in Hřensko. All of them are shown on the map. Parking cost: 30 CZK (1 EUR) per hour, 120 CZK (4 EUR) per day.

Hotels in Czech Switzerland: There are hotels and guesthouses in Grzhensko and the surrounding villages of the park. At the same time, you will stay in the very heart of Czech Switzerland and will be able to enjoy nature, tranquility, and engage in active hiking and cycling tourism. You can book your accommodation using this link:

See also special offers with discounts for hotels in Czech Switzerland.

Here is the most difficult moment for those who are traveling to Czech Switzerland for the first time. And if everything is certain with Pravcicka Brana (except for the travel time), then with the gorges we “got it”. We will show you all the optimal walking routes on the map. In the meantime, let's talk about our adventures in Czech Switzerland. We named them "Lost in the Lost World."

We parked the car in the first parking lot. A pleasant woman, the ticket taker, who understood Ukrainian perfectly, gave us a map of Czech Switzerland. We warned that we were parking for 2 hours. (Judging by the map... Oh! Optimists.!))) She smiled and said that this was not enough, but you can pay extra for parking later.

Here is the map of Czech Switzerland that we received. It is in German and Czech.

When we were planning a route through Czech Switzerland, we read reviews from other travelers. Many walked in a large circle: from point 1 - through all the points - to point 6. Everyone wrote that the walk takes a lot of time, but no one said anything specifically, it looked something like this: “I walked, I looked.” The only thing they wrote was that everything was done in a day. But since we arrived after lunch and were in the mountains of Saxon Switzerland, we decided not to inspect point 2 (Bram). We wanted to walk through the city of Gzhensko from point 6 (parking) and take a boat ride in the Edmund Gorge between points 5 and 4. And then return along the same route or walk to the stop in the village. Mezhnaya and come to the parking lot by bus.

"Pitfalls" of thisarts .

1. It does not mark where the ascent or descent is, which is inconvenient when planning a route.
2. Distance in km shown only in highways, and the length of ALL walking routes is measured in MINUTES, not meters or kilometers. This is where the “trick” comes in.

Practice has shown that walking along the route actually takes at least two to three times longer than what is written on the map. Also keep in mind that on the way you will spend a little time taking photos - pauses, because there is amazing beauty all around.

3. How does a person feel when expectations are disappointed? Unpleasant feelings of confusion, fatigue from waiting and irritation from the fact that in reality everything is not so. These are our feelings during the second half of our route, when the information on the map did not coincide with reality at all. That's why we were "Lost in the Lost World"

And now everything is in order. Our example of which route not to take. “Don’t go there, don’t go to court”)))

Grzensko is an interesting town. We walked along its only street with pleasure, looking at the houses and funny garden figurines that were sold along the road.

We're excited. Behind the bridge and the Pension Soutěsky hotel (on the right in the photo) a beautiful trail to the gorge begins. The car could have been parked here, but this way we got a better look at Hřensko.

At the beginning of the trail there is an information stand with a map, distances, boat operating schedules and their last departure, so that the tourist does not walk in vain. Everything is written optimistically))) Here you can see that the first yellow section, 1 km long, takes 20 minutes. In city mode we walk faster. But something went wrong here. We walked it to the gorge and the boats in 50 minutes (this is true from the parking lot, 1 km from it).

We crossed the bridge over the Kamenice River.

After it the forest path begins. It is equipped with railings, steps, benches.

Interestingly, until the 19th century, the mountainous area with gorges along the Kamenitsa River was called End of the world. When the trails ended, local residents were afraid to go further into the dense forest, full of secrets and legends. Well, what’s not fabulous lost World?!

It's incredibly beautiful all around.

Here you want to sit down and just enjoy the tranquility, the murmur of water, the singing of birds, the greenery of the forest in the sun’s rays.

But the forest path along the stone gorge along the river does not end.

Well, finally we can see the landing site for the boat. Further on the trail is interrupted and you can only move along the route by water.

The history of these boats and the Kamenitsa River gorge began with a dispute. In 1877, five daredevils, having had a good drink in the Grzhensky tavern, made a bet that they would float down the stormy river on rafts. The three rafts confidently covered the distance. After this, the owner of local lands, Prince Edmund, hired Italian workers and built paths, bridges, tunnels, and dams. In 1890, boating along the first gorge, 500 m long, opened for tourists. At first it was Quiet, now it was named Edmund Gorge in honor of the prince. A few years later, a second gorge was built, the Wild Gorge, the length of the route along it is 250 m. Then tourists were taken on boats by ferrymen in beautiful sailor uniforms.

Today we will sail along the first long Edmund's Gorge. We bought tickets at the box office. Tickets for our family cost 9 euros. The walk takes only 20 minutes.

We ask the cashier what we should do, how far and how long after the boat to point 4 - p. Mezhna? He says no, it’s close there. Indeed, on the map there is a zigzag drawn on the green left route and it says 15 minutes. We had two options: 1. Go back by boat, again pay 9 euros and again walk 50 minutes to the parking lot. Or 2. -see more of Czech Switzerland. We chose the second option: after the boat, walk 15 minutes and 500 m (according to the map) to the village of Mezhna, take the bus there and return to the parking lot. (You could also go further along the yellow route, take a boat along the Wild Gorge and go to the village of Mezhni Luka and the bus, but it would be much longer).

The boat ride was very nice and soulful. The boatman told funny and cheerful stories about the gorge and mysterious legends in three languages ​​(English, Czech, Russian).

Local fairy-tale residents looked at us from the shores. Good and not so good))

And where there were no sculptures, everyone unanimously turned on their imagination. After all, the outlines of rocks and stones are very similar to fairy-tale characters.

Do you see the snake?

The boatman pulled the rope and a waterfall poured down from the walls of the gorge. I pulled it a second time - there was no waterfall.

The walk turned out to be interesting. We sailed to the boat station. There is a restaurant on the pier. Here you can have a snack and relax.

Prices in Czech crowns.

On the way we washed ourselves and cooled off in the river.

The path leads through the tunnels.

These tunnels were cut into the rock by workers specially invited from Italy. They were called Barabbas. They were famous mining masters in the Alps. A special technology was used in the formation of the tunnels - in winter the rocks were heated, then cooled sharply with water. So the stone walls cracked and could be processed.

This place reminded me of another stone gorge in Austria - Liechtenstein. Read about it here:

It turned out that a rise was awaiting us, remember the zigzag on the map? It was not an easy climb, but a very steep and long one. It felt like we had climbed a skyscraper. And we walked serpentinely along such stairs.

Well, we think, we’ll be patient, we’ll get on the bus soon. But when the stairs ended, the ascent continued along forest paths. 15 minutes have long passed, but the end of the edge is not in sight)) We looked around, there below was the gorge of the Kamenitsa River.

And when we finally reached the village of Mezhna, to the restaurant, our strength completely left us. The time from the boat station to this finish took again 50 minutes. It took 30 difficult and long-feeling minutes to get up, but 15 were announced.

Judging by the map, there should be a bus stop here. But the restaurant waiter and several people in it knew nothing about this. Strange! We finally found a stop 100 meters away. We sat, rested, and waited. We saw the schedule and realized that buses run here very rarely and the wait for the next one is 3 hours. We decided to go to the village of Mezhni Luka - it’s about 2 km away. The asphalt road went through a flat, beautiful area.

When we arrived at another stop in the village. Mezhni Luka is next to the parking lot, we read the schedule and realized that there will be no more buses today))) And it’s still 6 km to get to Grzhensko. There was no strength to walk anymore, everyone was tired. We thought about using “Plan B”: I need to hitchhike to the parking lot and return to pick up ours in our car. Let's go to the main road. And then in front of the Mezní Louka hotel there was another stop, and there were many tourists waiting for the bus. Hooray! We are saved! While waiting for the bus, the children had fun

We took the bus to our car. Our walk through Czech Switzerland took approximately 3.5 hours. Adventures we will never forget! Now we remember with laughter))) But only thanks to such a difficult walk, we will be able to help other travelers plan a route through the park. Organized tourists are not brought here, because it is impossible to gather them later))) After all, here it is easy to become “Lost in the Lost World”))). Of course, if you don’t know how to optimally and correctly build a route.

Routes in Czech Switzerland.

There are a lot of walking and cycling routes in the park. It's difficult to get lost - there are many signs everywhere. Buses run along the main roads marked in white on the map. Stops - icon BUS on the plan. You can combine a walking route with a bus ride. We will show on the map routes to the main attractions of Czech Switzerland.

Route to Pravčicka Brana.

This route is for those who want to enjoy the mountain scenery of Czech Switzerland. On the map - point 2 And brown route. At the turn from the main road there is a sign to Pravčická brána. Nearby there is paid parking and the Three Sources stop. This is the best place to start your climb. The length of the route from the turn to Bran is 3 km, on the map the duration is 45 minutes. In fact, expect the hike to take an average of 1 hour and 20 minutes, with photo breaks along the way. The entire route along with a walk along Pravčicka Brana and returning the same way It may take approximately 3.5 - 4 hours. (If you are coming from Grzhensko - paragraph 1 or paragraph 6- add distance and time to the calculation.)

From Pravcicka Brana there is a trail to the village of Mezhni Luka, point 3. Length - 7 km, travel time about 2.5 - 3 hours. It will be overcome by physically prepared travelers.

Route to the Gorges.

It is suitable for those who want to see the “Lost World” of the Kamenitsa River and go boating in the gorges. But you will also have to walk a lot)) We will divide it into three options: 1. Easy option Edmund’s Gorge (+ optional Wild Gorge), 2. Edmund’s Gorge, 3. Wild Gorge + Edmund’s Gorge.

Option 1 - An easy and simple route through the gorges with boating.

A) The path that we took at the beginning, but with the return of the same road back. Will go for a walk average 2.5 hours excluding time spent relaxing in a restaurant. Yellow route on the map: from Grzhensk from points 6, 1 and 5on the map you follow the forest path to the boat station in Edmund's Gorge point 4-B. Travel time is approximately 50 minutes. You take a boat ride for 20 minutes one way, relax in a restaurant (optional), and return by boat for another 20 minutes. Walk back to Grzhensko - about 50 minutes.

B) You can complement your walk with a boat ride in the second - Wild Gorge point 4-A.In this case, expect that the entire walk through the two gorges will take about 4 hours, excluding rest in the restaurant. From the Edmund's Gulch station to the Wild Gulch boats, it's a 30-minute walk there and 30 minutes back. The boat ride takes 15 minutes there and 15 minutes back.

*** When planning your route, carefully read the boat operating schedule and find out the last time of boat departures in the direction of Hřensko.

Option 2 - Edmund's Gulch route.

This short route is our journey in reverse)). On the map - white +yellow route: point 3 With. Mezhni Luka - point 4 With. Mezhni - point 4 - B point 5 about 3 o'clock.

By bus you get to the village. Mezhni Luka - point 3(and if you’re lucky with a bus, then to the village of Mezhni point 4). If you have a car, it is better to park it in the Hřensko parking lots ( paragraph 1 And paragraph 6) and before the start of the route in the village. Take a bus to Mezhni Luka. From the village Mezhni Luka ( point 3) walk 2 km to the village. Mezhni ( point 4). There will be an easy climb along a paved road. Travel time is about 40 minutes. Further behind the restaurant, follow the signs to “Soutěska” (which means “gorges”) and go down about 20 minutes along the path to paragraph 4-B.

Behind the bridge over the river there is a fork with signs for two gorges. You turn right to Edmundova soutěska. It takes about 15 minutes to walk to the boat station and restaurant. Relax and buy tickets. The boat floats along Edmund's Gorge for 20 minutes.

***

point 5, 1, 6

Option 3 - Route Wild Gorge + Edmund's Gorge.

A longer route, compared to the first option, includes boating through two picturesque gorges of Czech Switzerland. On the map - blue +yellow route: point 3 With. Mezhni Luka - point 4-A Wild gorge and boat station - point 4 - B Edmund's Gulch and boat station - point 5 Grzhensko. Total time for the route - about 4 o'clock.

From the village Mezhni Luka ( point 3) follow the signs to Divoká soutěska. The descent along the road will take approximately 30 minutes. Then turn right onto the path along the river to the Wild Gorge. Follow the signs for another 30 minutes. Buy tickets at the boat station. The boat travels along the Wild Gorge for 15 minutes.

*** Be sure to keep in mind that in summer the last boat in the direction to Grzensko leaves from here at 17-00, in October - at 16-30, in October an hour earlier. If you don't have time, you'll have to climb back to the village. Mezhni Luka, because you can only move further along the gorge by boat, there is no path along the shore!!!

It's about a 30-minute walk to the next boat station in Edmund's Gulch and a restaurant. Buy tickets and relax. The boat floats along Edmund's Gorge for 20 minutes.

*** Be sure to keep in mind that in summer the last boat in the direction to Grzensko leaves from here at 18-00, in October - at 17-00. If you don't have time, you'll have to climb back to the village. Mezhni, because you can only move further along the gorge by boat, there is no path along the shore!!!

After the boat, you head along a forest path to Grzhensko ( point 5, 1, 6). Travel time with photos is about 50 minutes with pauses.

Tourists in great!!! physical fitness is really possible to pass the entire route in Czech Switzerland from paragraph 1 And to point 5 in a day, visiting Pravcicka Brana and the gorges. But it’s better to split the trip into 2 days))

Decin. Czech Republic.

We stopped in the ancient Czech town of Děčín. It is only 15 km from Hřensko and Czech Switzerland. The city was founded in 993 by the Přemyslid princes, the first kings of the Czech Republic. We wrote about them in this article about Prague:

By the way, information for tourists without a car, the Prague-Dresden railway line passes through Decin. And from here it is convenient to get to Czech Switzerland by bus or boat.

Decin was examined from the car window. A very nice old town.

We are approaching the central Old Town Square.

And this Decin Castle, built in the 13th century over the Labe River. This is the main attraction of the town. Since the 19th century the castle has been cultural center region. It was owned by representatives of the influential Thun family. Many famous writers, artists, and composers were received here, among them Walter Scott and Frederic Chopin, who wrote the Decin Waltz. Guests were impressed by the huge orchid garden. It was considered one of the largest in Europe. Now in the alleys of the castle you can see a beautiful rose garden - Decin Rose Garden.

We booked these apartments near Decin Castle - Czech Switzerland Castle Apartments.

Studio apartment in an old house on the 3rd floor, with a kitchen and free parking in the yard. An elevator takes you to the floor. The apartment we booked has a balcony. In the photo - on the right. There are light green chairs on it.

We were met by the owner, a pleasant, cheerful guy, David, who showed us the accommodation and told us about the most interesting sights of the city and the surrounding area. I really liked the apartment. Everything is clean and tidy, original interior.

On the ground floor there is a cozy cafe with sweets and drinks. Kids splash happily in the fountain. Across the road is a small lake. View from our balcony.

We view Decin Castle from the balcony of the apartment. I didn’t have the strength to visit it at all))) It’s a pity that we underestimated the tourist potential of Decin and stayed here for only one night. The city also has a zoo, a water park, ancient buildings, ancient bridges, 15 km away - the most big mountain Czech Switzerland - Decinsky Sneznik. In David's apartment there are many brochures describing the routes and attractions of Decin.

I only had enough strength to go to the supermarket to replenish food supplies for the next day and buy something for dinner and breakfast. But even on the way to the supermarket and back, we managed to walk around the lake.

On the opposite bank from the apartment we found the restaurant “Fabrika”, which David recommended.

But we have other plans for this family evening: Czech dumplings, cold German Radeberg beer and a gorgeous view from the balcony.

The next day we will travel to Budapest with a 3-4 hour stop in the capital of Slovakia, Bratislava.