Donka with a feeder is a catchy and popular tackle. With its help, a small container with bait is delivered in close proximity to the nozzle, which allows you to increase the number of bites. Despite the apparent simplicity of the design of such a donkey, during its installation it is necessary to take into account several subtleties, which will be discussed in the article.

General information about donks

The peculiarity of bottom fishing rods with feeders is that the container in which the bait is placed performs a double function. When cast, it becomes a load and flies over a long distance; when it falls to the bottom, it turns into a place for fish to feed. In this way, the fisherman not only delivers a hook with bait to the required point, but also suggests where to eat.

In addition to this quality, there are other advantages, such as the possibility of fishing over long distances, at depth or in the current, where it is not possible to accurately throw bait, and finally, the costs of components are low. The main disadvantage is the difficulty of using the donkey in snags.

To understand how to make a donk with a feeder, you should familiarize yourself with the types of donks. The most commonly used bottom gear is the following designs:

"Zakidushka" The oldest tackle. It is a fishing line with a diameter of 0.3-04 mm and a length of up to 50 meters, assembled on a reel. Initially, a weight was used, attached to the end of the equipment; leashes with hooks were located a little higher. Then sliding sinkers began to be used, and the leash with the hook was moved to the end. This solution increased the sensitivity of the gear. Feeders in this version are not used for a simple reason: to throw the bait, the fisherman first spins the load, and due to centrifugal force, all the bait spills out of the container.

"Rubber". An original and very catchy equipment that helps to achieve high results in mass fishing of such fish as crucian carp, roach, ram, saberfish. To make it a bottom tackle, you simply tie a rubber shock absorber directly to the load. The fishing line that follows then spreads along the bottom. You can make an elastic band with a feeder, but then you will have to choose a tighter shock absorber and the lightest possible container for food, so that you spend less effort on delivering it.

Donka from a spinning rod with a feeder. It has replaced the “stuff”. Initially, the basis was taken on a spinning rod (usually of large test), equipped with an inertial or inertial-free reel, on which a fishing line with a weight and hooks was wound. Later, a feeder, mainly of a spring type, was used as a load, in which the bait was stored for the longest possible time. This option was chosen for a simple reason: it is inconvenient to make frequent casts, but there are no longer any disadvantages of casting.

Feeder. Modern tackle, consisting of a special rod with flexible, replaceable tips (alarms), a spinning reel, monofilament with a diameter of no more than 0.3 mm and multiple variations of feeders and leashes.

What kind of feeders are there?

There are several types of feeders in which fishermen deliver bait mixtures. Let's describe them.

"Spring". The most common type of donkey feeder. It is intended for standing water and is manufactured industrially or with your own hands exclusively in a sliding version. Assembling the tackle is very simple: just thread the line through the axial tube, then into the stopper, tie a swivel, to which attach a leash with a hook.

Most often, it was equipped with a spinning rod bottom with a feeder. Some modifications of the “spring” provide additional weight on its axis. If you need to load it yourself, it is better to use lead tape, making several turns on the axis.

The bait for such a feeder is prepared with a viscous consistency so that it does not crumble when it hits the water and falls apart for a long time when it falls to the bottom. Rarely used on rivers and canals due to its shape and tendency to roll downstream.

Classic “spring” with “rocker arm” and their location in the gear

There are very small feeders that can be equipped with both a half-bottom and a fishing rod with a float. Gear collected in this way sometimes gives unexpectedly good results.

“Cage” is a mesh feeder. The most common option. It appeared with the introduction of picker and feeder into fishing practice, and during its existence it has been modernized and improved more than once. It is manufactured with a built-in load and is attached at one point. It can be round or rectangular in cross section.

With this feeder you can go for any non-predatory fish, including carp and bream. With its help, the fisherman first baits the selected fishing point, throwing a filled container without a hook several times and sharply supporting the tackle when it reaches the bottom. The food comes out of the tunnel freely and remains in the water. Then the leash is put on, the tackle is thrown and the fishing process itself begins. Each time you hook, additional feeding occurs.

Mesh feeder is the main tool for feeder fishing

If you plan to fish in a strong current, choose a rectangular net with a large flat weight. In still water, both types can be used, but if the bottom of the reservoir is silted, you should prefer containers that do not sink into the viscous bottom.

Closed feeder. A cylindrical plastic container of this type is used in circumstances where the bait contains a large amount of animal components such as maggots or bloodworms. They can leave the internal space only through a limited number of holes, around which interested fish will be “on duty.” Sometimes some of the outputs are blocked for greater efficiency.

Closed feeders are designed for feeding with animal components.

Naturally, such a feeder can be successfully used only in standing water, since it is not weighted. But it does not sink much into the mud, which is an additional advantage of this container option.

Feeders for long casting. When fishing, you may need to cast your tackle over a long distance (more than 60 meters). Ordinary mesh containers will not fly like that, and they may not withstand the load. Therefore, special designs have been developed that can travel long distances by air.

To improve flight characteristics, a lead round weight is attached to the feeder at some distance, as a result of which it takes on the shape of a bullet.

Bullet feeder – designed for long-distance fishing

This design should not be used on silted reservoirs. In addition, it is prone to snags.

Feeders for special occasions

In fishing practice, there are cases when conventional types of feeders are not suitable for fishing conditions. Let's describe them.

The old proven design has been able to successfully lure carp and carp for many years. It consists of a lead plate, to which a block of pressed sunflower cake is attached using rubber from a bicycle inner tube.

The leashes with hooks here are tied tightly to the base, the nozzle on the hook is not put on, and its sting is stuck into the top of the tree in the corners through drilled holes. The gear worked on the principle of self-hooking, and the fisherman sometimes did not even set a bite alarm, determining the presence of a trophy by the sag or tension of the fishing line.

In the complete absence of a bite, the hooks could be equipped with bait that was preferred by large fish - corn, peas, soybeans, etc.

A plate with a top is a passive tackle designed for large carp fish

In conditions of strong current, it is required that the bait container remain motionless throughout the entire fishing period. With conventional mesh feeders, this result is difficult to achieve. Therefore, the fishermen made it as flat as possible, maintaining the volume for the bait mixture.

Flat feeder for rivers with strong currents

In order for the other qualities of this element to remain in force, it was necessary to strengthen the attachment point to the fishing line. It is made of all metal.

This type of bait container is indirectly related to the topic of our article, but it needs to be mentioned, since sometimes during the fishing process you have to change gears on the fly in order to get away from zero.

You can do it yourself by taking a feeder, removing the weight and securing in the upper part (where there is no fastening) a large volume of buoyant substance (spray foam, polystyrene foam, etc.). The main thing is that the device tips over in the water, gradually dropping the bait.

The gear here becomes more complicated, since it is necessary to calculate so that the bait does not sink too much and the fish does not get scared of the container.

A floating feeder is a good tool for attracting fish close to the surface of the water.

How to attach a feeder to a fishing line

There are several recipes for rigging a bottom fishing rod with a feeder. Everyone’s leash is knitted the same way, but the attachment of the bait container depends on the angler’s intentions, his preferences and fishing conditions.

Sliding equipment. It is used both for “springs”, when the fishing line is threaded through an axial tube, and for feeders with one attachment point, when the fishing line passes through the eye of the bracket or an anti-twist tube. The last option is worth taking a closer look at.

The essence of the equipment is that when biting, the fishing line slides freely in a plastic tube, and when casting, the feeder and nozzle are separated and do not intersect. The finished element can be purchased at the store, but most often it is made independently.

As an anti-twist, anglers use either an empty ballpoint or gel pen, or a cocktail tube. The rigid structural element protects the equipment from twisting and overlaps, without providing resistance to the fishing line.

The feeder is attached at the bend made approximately 1/3 of the tube, rigidly to the tube or using a small leash. The hook and container will be positioned at a certain angle when casting. The free movement of the main line within 30 centimeters is limited on both sides by stoppers. The leash for the hook can be placed directly after the tube.

The fastening unit is made of copper or soft steel wire. When winding, a small eye is left into which a swivel or carabiner is threaded. You can select the diameter of a small piece of insulation that fits onto the tube.

The anti-twist tube allows the fishing line to slide freely inside and prevents the equipment from twisting

The gear is convenient, but athletes are skeptical about it due to poor camouflage in clear water.

Paternoster. Correctly assembling such equipment is not difficult, and installation is carried out directly on the reservoir.

First, we tie a loop about 25 centimeters long at the end of the fishing line. You should knit with a double knot, making sure to wet it for strength. Then we roughly divide the circle of the loop into three parts and cut it at a distance equal to 2/3 of this circle. You will get two unequal parts. We tie a swivel for the leash to the larger one, and a swivel for the feeder to the smaller one.

After casting and retrieving the tackle, they are located parallel to each other. When biting, the force is directly transmitted to the signaling device, bypassing the feeder.

It is also not difficult to equip the donk with such a mount. First, a swivel is put on the fishing line, to which the feeder will later be attached. Then a side loop approximately 15 centimeters long is knitted. Moreover, you need to make sure that the swivel is inside the loop. The free end is left 25-30 centimeters long.

Gardner's loop - modification of the paternoster (diagram)

The device of this type of bottom equipment allows you to increase the sensitivity of the gear and reduce the number of overlaps when casting.

We take a separate piece of fishing line (preferably fluorocarbon for rigidity) about 80 centimeters long, fold it in half. We thread one end into the swivel. We tie knots at a distance of 10 centimeters from each edge. Along the edges we will have loops of 10 centimeters each, and in the center there will be a 20-centimeter loop with a swivel inside.

Symmetrical loop – convenient when casting and does not interfere with biting

Experienced fishermen make twists from these small loops. The leash will be attached to one of them, and the main fishing line to the other. After casting and retrieving, the container will be close to the nozzle. When hooking, the fish will have 20 centimeters before it feels the resistance of the load.

Installation of such equipment is somewhat more difficult than the previous one, but if you practice, it is quite achievable. The central loop is also knitted here, but it should have an irregular shape.

An asymmetrical loop allows you to separate the leash and feeder to a safe distance

In this version, overlaps are minimized, and sensitivity has increased even more, especially in the current.

To summarize, we note that fishing with a feeder can bring a lot of joy and pleasure to the angler. This kind of gear is easy to assemble, even in a budget version. The main thing is to choose the type of container suitable for the pond and choose the right bait.

As a rule, when it comes to the presentation of baits, and even more precisely, about the leashes that we make for bottom fishing for carp, many anglers (regardless of their professional level) have the same problem on their minds. That is, at some “wonderful” moment we unexpectedly (for ourselves) understand that, after all, we are not getting one hundred percent results from tying our carp rigs.

And then we justify our failures - either because of the illiterate choice of place for fishing, or because of “uncatchy” weather, or because of fishing pressure, or other “excuses.” In general, by hook or by crook, we try to deny our helplessness in creating such equipment that is guaranteed to catch carp! And all this happens against the backdrop of what already exists in the world - simply a huge assortment of products for carp fishing and the widest selection of all kinds of “tricks” and “new products” for fishing.

Naturally, having carefully read many books and articles (from famous carp anglers), in search of the best equipment for carp fishing, we find “something”! After which, we assure ourselves that this particular equipment is the best (specifically for our situation on the lake). But then – with our own brains we completely refute this information, after the very first carp session!

So, starting from scratch or returning to the simplest installations is the best way to competently master the intricacies of creating leashes (for carp fishing). Only after thoroughly studying and successfully using the simplest leashes a hundred times in practice, you will be able to understand for what situations on a pond you need to tie more complex carp rigs (or use more complex leashes), and how to do it correctly! In this case, there is no need to even try to jump “above the navel.”

Personally, I think that modern carp anglers are overly spoiled with too wide a range of carp equipment. And even more precisely - a huge selection of all kinds of “small things” presented in the windows of fishing stores. For example, today you can easily find hooks of virtually any size and shape, or you can purchase leader materials of any structure and degree of rigidity. Moreover, there are a lot of swivels on the shelves - with enlarged rings, models for quickly changing the leash, etc. In general, today we can purchase almost everything that is necessary to create carp equipment for any situation on a pond!

However, with such a wide choice, it is very easy to make a mistake, for example, using completely incompatible things at the same time. As a rule, after we cannot resist the temptation to “shove” somewhere a new product that we bought recently, after its gorgeous advertising in many magazines. I am completely sure that if all beginning carp fishermen, during the first 2 months of fishing, did not “be smart”, but bought a couple of hooks (of the same variety), and also purchased only one type of leader material, then they would catch a lot more carp. And also normally (and much faster) mastered all the necessary basics of carp fishing!

The most simple knotless “design” of a hairline installation contains almost all the mechanical principles of operation and the “sensing ability” of equipment that every carp angler needs to know!

Hair rig

What is the most important meaning of hair rigging? It is precisely in attaching the bait to the hook in such a “cunning” way that the latter’s tip does not close, and the bait itself is able to move naturally and freely. When carp suck up our bait, by the way, just like any other type of food, then, as soon as they feel the “resistance” of the sinker, they try to get rid of the potentially dangerous food, i.e. in fact, they immediately spit it out. And, just at this moment, the sting of the hook is “notched” in the lower lip of the fish. That is, in fact, the carp “self-hooks” - both under the weight of our sinker, and under the weight of the bait located below the hook, as well as due to the “spitting force”.

If the hook was bad, it may mean that the “hair” was too short and the carp was not able to “suck” the bait deep enough before spitting it out sharply (and powerfully). Continuous observations of the place/position of the hook in the lip of the carp will help you analyze the situation normally and choose the most optimal length of the “hair”. The ideal place/position of the hook in the mouth of a carp is considered to be the central part of the lower lip (approximately half an inch deep). Depending on the nature of the reservoir, the features of the bottom topography, the specifics of the food supply, as well as some nuances of the carp’s feeding behavior (on a particular lake), the length of your “hair” should be selected. That is, taking into account all these important factors.

Carp hooks

Also, it is definitely worth noting that each equipment has its own hooks. Most modern carp hooks are special models, usually designed for strictly specific situations or for any specific carp equipment. The design of making hooks for carp fishing can differ in many characteristics, the main of which are the so-called “total length of the forend” (the distance from the eye to the lower point of the hook); “the width of the hook” (i.e. the lower “bend” of the hook) and the thickness of the material (from which the hook is made). Of course, thinner hooks are designed for catching “regular” fish in the simplest bodies of water, and thick (and super/strong) hooks are designed for fighting trophy fish in more complex ponds and lakes (i.e. with snags, algae, etc. underwater obstacles).

What is the main task of a carp hook? Essentially, it consists in ensuring that precisely at the moment the fish spits out (our bait), it instantly turns with its sting down and immediately bites into the lower lip. Judging by personal practice, hooks that have a short shank and more rounded shapes (the so-called “curved style” of manufacture) unfold perfectly and are reliably hooked into the lip of a carp. Personally, I would advise beginners to start their journey in carp fishing with these types of hooks. The best option is the relatively new “SSBP Armapoint” series from the purely “carp” company FOX.

Drive materials

And finally, the last important element for creating catchy carp equipment is a leader, for the manufacture of which you can use leader materials produced in 3 main varieties: soft braided (without a shell), soft braided (with a shell / braided) and hard (nylon or fluorocarbon). Naturally, without taking into account the “sophisticated” combined manufacturing options (for more sophisticated carp anglers).

Sufficiently hard nylon can work just as well as soft braid, while actually using the same carp rigs. Using soft braided materials (sheathed / braided), you can always “remove” the abrasive/resistant coating, and as a result get a soft section that ensures normal mobility of the nozzle against the background of the remaining (harder) part of the entire leash. I assure you that in some situations this must be done! Since carp can feel both the resistance of a hard leash and the “weight” of the sinker, without having yet fully “sucked in” the bait.

Some anglers pay too little attention to the length of the leader. And this is in vain! Since it is this “characteristic” that greatly influences the “detecting ability” of the entire equipment as a whole.

Too long leads lead to insufficient resistance of the “classic” sinker (weighing 3 ounces), thereby providing the opportunity for the fish to easily get rid of the hook. As soon as they feel the prick of the hook, the carp begin to turn their heads violently, and this leads to the fact that the puncture site of the lip increases significantly, which is why the hook falls out. In turn, a short leader is able to provide direct contact between the hook and the sinker (with virtually instantaneous resistance from its 3-ounce weight). In itself, lengthening the leash will be a rational solution only in cases where carp take the bait very carefully, “checking” its natural mobility in advance. Thus, if your “weak” bites do not transform into confident “locomotives” for a very long time, then you should seriously think about the length of the leash. Be sure to change it and compare the new result with the previous one.

In-depth study and thorough understanding of the BASICS of creating leashes and carp equipment (in general) ultimately lead to the fact that the carp angler begins to BELIEVE in his equipment. And this is one of the main aspects of carp fishing! Personally, in 95% of cases I am quite satisfied with the use of only 3 carp rigs: with a single bottom boilie, with a single Pop-Up and, of course, a “snowman”. All these 3 rigs are knitted from identical materials and work successfully - in fact, according to the same principle.

Practical part (step by step instructions)

1) This photo shows everything that is needed to make leashes of 3 varieties.

2) Remove 5 inches of braid (i.e. approximately 13 cm) from the leader material to rig with a 15-16 mm bottom boilie. For the “snowman” rig, we remove the braids a little more. At the far end of the piece of “bare” material, we tie an ordinary knot.

3) Using a special boilie needle (personally, I use a needle from FOX), carefully place our 15 mm boilie on the “hair”.

5) At a distance of 1 inch (approximately 2.5 cm) from the boilie, tie a micro ring (“Rig Rings Micro”).

6) After which, through this ring we thread a hook (number 8). Personally, I believe that the use of micro-rings provides the bait with much greater “freedom of action”, thereby significantly improving the “sensing ability” of the entire equipment.

7) Directly through the eye of the hook - we thread the “free” end of the leader so that we can then tie a “Knotless Knot” (i.e. without a knot).

8) First, we make 6 turns around the shank of the hook, and then again we pull the end of the leash through its eye.

9) And, in the end, we securely tighten our knot.

10) Using scissors (or other tools), cut a piece of heat/shrink tubing (1 inch or 2.5 cm long)

11) Then, we put this segment on the leash and pull it onto the resulting knot. Thanks to a piece of heat/shrink tube, the hook (in the carp’s mouth) will unfold.

12) At the other end of the leash - we also knit a knot and tighten it securely, only this time using a special device (for example, from the FOX company).

13) A few inches from the hook (on the leash) we make 3-4 turns from the “core” of the leader.

14) We cover these turns (from the “inner part” of the leader) with soft lead (or fishing tungsten putty).

15) This will normally press the leader to the bottom.

The presence of a feeder in the rig actually gave the name to the English bottom fishing rod, since the word “feeder” is translated as “feeder”! Therefore, it is not surprising that the effectiveness of fishing depends on the functionality of this most important component of the feeder equipment. What are the results? An incorrectly selected feeder can jeopardize the very ability to catch fish. So let's find out how to choose a feeder?

Lyrical introduction

At the beginning of the development of the feeder, the author of these lines had the imprudence to trust one of the “experts” of the Kyiv bazaar “Bukhara”, where you can still buy anything related to fishing. So, the seller “sold” a picker rod with all the equipment and a spring feeder, assuring that this is the best option for the Dnieper. The next day, the “spring” with bait flew into the water and immediately, carried away by the Dnieper stream, collected the gear of fishermen standing downstream... It turned out that the 30-gram feeder was completely unsuitable for the current. Therefore, the first lesson that your humble servant learned from all this: the weight of the feeder must correspond to the fishing conditions. On the river, 60 grams may be enough, but sometimes 150 grams can be carried away. In calm water, 20–40 g is usually enough. It is also important that you first need to select a fishing rod for specific conditions, and then buy a feeder for the feeder.

Choosing a feeder for ponds without current

There are many shapes and varieties of designs that affect the efficiency of feeding bait, casting distance and ease of use in certain conditions. So, the following types of feeders are best suited for calm water:

• "Springs" or "Spirals"– affordable and effective solutions for fishing in ponds, bays, lakes with pickers and light rods. The design is based on a spiral-shaped “body” with a central tube-like rod and a sinker attached to the back. The advantages of “springs” are the simplicity of equipment, the aerodynamic shape, which allows you to cast far, the quick release of feed and the sensitivity of the equipment. Since the feeder is sliding, bite information is instantly transmitted to the quivertip.

• "Barrels" made of metal mesh– classic options for effective fishing in reservoirs without current. Moreover, depending on the conditions, they can be either open type (without plugs) or semi-open (removable plug on one side). They have excellent aerodynamic properties, are very convenient in terms of filling with food, and hold crumbly bait well, delivering them to the fishing point. In addition, they can be used in classic feeder installations, attached to an anti-twist tube, etc.

• Round plastic models have all the functional features of metal mesh feeders. In addition to everything, they are, as a rule, equipped with small longitudinal planes, so during reeling they quickly come off the bottom and float into the water floor, bypassing bottom obstacles in the form of vegetation, shells, stones and simply various rubbish. They can be equipped with a removable plug for longer rinsing of feed.

• Method feeders- these are “nipples” and “spoons” improved, again by English sports fishermen, only the bait is held not by wire, but by longitudinal or transverse planes. Method feeders are divided into two types: flat (flat weight and transverse ribs) and triangular (longitudinal ribs). They are fed with pressed bait onto an already fed point and look like a large lump of food, which the fish begins to dig and suck until it comes across a hook with an even more attractive bait.

All of the above-mentioned feeders are ineffective in rivers, since the round shape will not allow them to withstand the current and remain in the feeding place. Method models are carried away even further by the current, eroding open food until they reach the bottom.

Theoretical retreat

The weight of each feeder is indicated on its sinker, but how can you find out how much it weighs along with the bait. The most obvious, simple and accurate way is to weigh it on an electronic canter. If you don’t have scales, you can use formulas to determine volume:

• For rectangular ones - L x W x H;
• For triangular ones – L x W x H/2;
• For round ones – 3.14 x D/2 x D/2.

If the result obtained is multiplied by a factor of 1.2, we get the approximate weight of the bait. Adding it to the weight of the load, we will determine whether the weight of the bait and feeder fits into the test range of the feeder rod.

Feeders for river fishing

The current requires from the feeder not only a heavy sinker that it does not carry away, but also a certain design and shape. Unlike models with a round cross-section, triangular, square and rectangular feeders hold the stream perfectly. Thanks to mesh baskets with a fine mesh, the food is gradually washed out, keeping the fish near the equipment for as long as possible.

In principle, feeders of these forms also work in reservoirs where there is no current. But then you need to select models with a large cell so that the food dissolves more easily and attracts fish better.

For fishing in conditions of intense current, feeders with lugs are best suited. The sinkers of such models have large spikes at the bottom, with which they “cling” to the bottom and are held in one place.

Special purpose feeders

In addition to classic and method models, there are feeders designed for specific purposes. Depending on their weight, they can be used both in currents and in calm waters.

• "Bullets" for ultra-long casts– made from metal mesh or plastic. The main difference is the location of the load not along the entire length along one of the sides, but at the end of the basket. This design allows you to make long and ultra-long casts, even against the wind.

• Feeding models– designed for feeding fishing points and are characterized by increased feed capacity, equipped with small loads or not loaded at all. Their task is to deliver as much bait as possible to a given sector to attract fish as quickly as possible. After creating a feeding table, you can throw a standard feeder.

• Feeders for animal components– designed for throwing worms, maggots, bloodworms. These are closed models with small holes so that larvae or worms can gradually leave the feeder. One end is plugged, and the other is equipped with a lid for loading live bait. Of course, you can deliver animal components to the fishing point along with bait in classic feeders, but in this case the larvae and worms will very quickly end up in the water and will either be carried away by the current or eaten by small items. But special feeders are made in such a way that animal components leave the feeder for a long time.

Feeder review

The classic version of the "spring". The model is characterized by the absence of a load and the presence of a central tube for mounting sliding equipment. Perfect for fishing in shallow reservoirs without current, and also as a feeding trough, since the model is capable of instantly discarding bait. Simplicity of design and high quality production guarantees the durability and efficiency of use of this model.

This model is perfect for calm water and slow-flowing rivers. The advantages lie in the presence of planes that, with the first revolutions of the reel, lift the feeder into the middle and upper layers of water. Therefore, the model is indispensable where there are a lot of shells, debris stones and other obstacles at the bottom, over which this model can easily pass while reeling out the tackle.

The universal model is perfect for both calm water (low weights) and currents (high weights). A special feature of this model is a metal mesh with a large mesh for effective leaching of bait and its rectangular cross-section, which prevents rolling in the current. The plug ensures that the feed is kept in the stream. If necessary, it can be removed to increase the intensity of feeding.

An excellent option for catching carp on a feeder. The model has excellent flight qualities and is intended for long-distance casting. During reeling, it quickly comes off the bottom and, due to its petal-shaped shape, floats above it. Therefore, it is excellent for fishing in reservoirs with snags, rocky or overgrown bottoms. Due to the high transverse ribs, the bait is well held in the feeder.

Results in conclusion

By and large, if the weight of the feeder with bait falls within the test range of the rod, then you can safely cast it without fear of breaking the blank. Whether you can fish effectively is another question. First you need to decide on the weight. For a current, you will need a feeder of at least 60 g. If we are talking about a strong stream, then you will have to stock up on feeders of 90 g, 100 g, 120 g or more. In ponds, bays and lakes, a feeder weighing up to 40 g is sufficient. In calm water, the shape of the feeder is not decisive. But in the river it is better to fish with a model with a rectangular or triangular cross-section. Of course, if you fish both in currents and in calm waters, you need to have several feeders of different designs in order to always be ready for fishing. Long-range models will also come in handy, and feeding options will certainly come in handy in order to quickly “set the table” and start catching fish. And remember, a feeder is a consumable item, so at least several of them should be in your fishing bag on every fishing trip.

AND This is exactly the case, not everything is as simple when choosing a feeder as it seems at first glance, especially for novice fishermen. And first of all, oddly enough, it is necessary to understand why it is needed on the feeder gear. The answer that for baiting, and as a result, attracting fish, will be correct, but incomplete. Those fishermen who use, for example, a picker or a match, which are a type of feeder, can do without feeders, feeding the place either by hand or from a slingshot. And they don’t complain about the results.

P Therefore, first we will dwell on important notes or even rules when fishing with a feeder, which are not only desirable, but mandatory to know in order to use feeder equipment and tackle most effectively. So:

• N and the vast majority of our rivers with any, strong or weak surface current, flow at the bottom of the reservoir or absent, or very minimal. It follows that it is not the bottom current that pulls the feeder, but the or, which is located in the upper layers of the reservoir. And if there is a bottom current, then on such a gravel bottom, for example, our bait will not linger, which means the feeder will be completely ineffective. And there are not many fish on such a bottom, because there is no food for it.
• H In order for the feeder to rest confidently on the bottom of the reservoir, it is necessary to increase not only its weight, as it seems at first glance, but also to select the thinnest but strongest cord that will have less resistance in the water. And of course, it is necessary to take into account that the wider the bottom of the feeder, the more stable it is at the bottom. Various devices that increase the hooking of the feeder to the bottom of the reservoir are also fully justified.
• IN An important, perhaps even the main, requirement for a feeder feeder is maximum capacity with minimum dimensions. It is also desirable, although not always necessary, for the feeder to have good aerodynamic properties for long-distance casting. Its goal is to bring the bait to the fishing site and unload this bait. The faster the feeder unloads the bait, the faster the bait will start working.
• P When choosing bait for a feeder feeder, it is necessary to take into account that light fractions produce turbidity and attract fish to the fishing site. But large fractions of the bait remain at the bottom and serve as fish food, i.e. hold fish at the fishing site.
• D For feeder fishing, you need to have a wide range of feeders for different fishing conditions and different bodies of water with fast or slow currents. Feeders are consumables; in one fishing trip you can “lose” several feeders, especially at the initial stage of mastering feeder gear.

M The variety of types, shapes and weights of the offered feeders can confuse even an experienced fisherman. And it’s easy to verify this by going to any fishing store. But the right choice of feeder for feeder fishing largely determines the success of fishing with feeder gear. It is almost impossible to consider the pros and cons of all modifications of feeder feeders, but it is quite possible to systematize them according to certain characteristics.

P First of all, when choosing a feeder, you need to pay attention to 3 main characteristics:

• Design- open, semi-closed or closed feeder.
• Section- round, square or triangular.
• Weight— determines the load both on the feeder itself in the reservoir and on the feeder rod when casting it.

1. DESIGN

TOopen type feedershave the highest bait capacity compared to closed-type feeders with the same dimensions. The bait from open feeders is washed out faster, which means they will set the “table” for the fish faster. This is exactly the task that the feeder faces, and the open type feeder copes with this task most fully. The more spacious the feeder with minimum dimensions, the better, especially at the initial stage of baiting the fishing spot.

ABOUT Opened feeders, as a rule, have a streamlined shape in the form of a drop, a spring, or any section considered below, but open at 2 ends. Such feeders have minimal resistance when pulling out the gear and are most suitable not only at the stage of mastering the feeder, but also after fully mastering the feeder gear.

TO Let’s briefly look at feeders in the form of a “spiral”, which we also classified as open feeders. Such feeders are most often of the sliding type, i.e. the fishing line or braid passes through the hole through it and moves from the leader to the stopper. The advantage of such feeders is their simplicity and high casting range. These feeders are most suitable for fishing in still water. Among the disadvantages of using such feeders, it is necessary to note some loss of sensitivity of the gear.

• TOsemi-closed type troughs on one side they have a plug that slows down the process of washing out the bait. This design is most popular when the bait is not sticky enough, for example, when bloodworms or maggots are added to it. Often such feeders are used on reservoirs with medium currents or for rare castings. Such a feeder, unlike an open one, does not set the “table”, but only attracts the fish to it. Which is more consistent with the ideology of an ordinary donka, but not a feeder. The plug in such feeders provides additional resistance when pulling out the equipment and significantly loads the equipment. And this must be taken into account when choosing a test rod and spinning reel.

• Zcovered feeders, as can be seen from the name, they are closed at 2 ends, and, first of all, they pursue the goal of increasing the time the bait is washed out of it. Such feeders are more often used in reservoirs with strong currents, unless of course such feeders are cylindrical in shape. Just like semi-closed type feeders, they serve to attract fish, but in no way to set a “table” for fish. It is clear that for such feeders it is necessary to prepare bait from small fractions. Large particles of bait will remain in such a feeder.

AND Of course, such closed feeders can also include quite specific feeders for maggots or worms as bait, where there are not many holes and they are larger in size. It is clear that they also cannot attract fish and serve to keep them at the fishing site. Most often, such feeders are plastic and lightweight. They are most suitable for muddy bottoms because they are less prone to sinking into it.

2. SECTION

• Ccylindrical feeders have good flight characteristics due to their streamlined aerodynamic shape. After all, it is the cylinder of the simplest geometric shapes that has the best aerodynamics. Such feeders are most suitable for ponds with standing water or slow flow. This shape is unstable at the bottom of the reservoir, and in strong currents the cylindrical feeder will be carried away. But, we note that even if it is carried away by the current, it can be used as bait, which is successfully used in feeder fishing. Let us repeat that an open feeder with a round cross-section is most suitable for feeder fishing, and most fully solves the main task of a feeder feeder for delivering bait to the fishing spot and quickly unloading it.
• Trectangular shape more suitable for bodies of water with fast currents. It’s not for nothing that they say that “the faster the current, the more triangular the feeder should be.” Such feeders, even without additional hooks, hold perfectly at the casting point, although they do not have outstanding flight characteristics. Among the disadvantages, one can also note the small capacity of such feeders. TO such feeders that stay perfectly on the bottom even in strong currents include feederssemicircular, in the form of a sphere, section. We will not consider them separately and we will not be much mistaken if we include them in this category.
• TOsquare shape also well suited for fast currents, and, unlike a triangular-shaped feeder, allows you to hold more bait. The feeder holds well at the casting point, but when casting it also does not fly as far as a round feeder, although further than a triangular feeder. This is the most versatile form and is widely used by fishermen. It flies well and stays confidently at the bottom of the reservoir. This is the second shape of the feeder after the round section, which must be chosen for the feeder. And of course, pay special attention to the absence of any end caps. Think carefully about their need for the specific body of water where you are going to fish.

3. WEIGHT OF THE FEEDER

ABOUT A very important parameter, taking into account the fact that fishing with feeder gear involves frequent casts. Place a light feeder, it will be carried away by the current or twisted, increase the weight - you will unnecessarily load the feeder tackle, both the rod itself and the spinning reel. And choosing such an optimal weight of the feeder can be very problematic. As a rule, the weight of the feeder is up to 60 grams, which is quite sufficient in reservoirs with standing water or weak currents. But if the current is strong, then the weight of the feeder can reach 120 grams, even without taking into account the weight of the bait.

P With such a large weight of the feeder used, pay attention to the test of the rod and the quality of the rings, and keep in mind that the load on the spinning feeder will be very significant. Most often, the weight of the feeder is indicated on the weighting material, made either from a lead plate or any other weighting element.

ABOUT It is necessary to focus specifically on plastic feeders. Their main advantage is that they are lighter than metal ones and are more suitable, for example, for fishing on a muddy bottom - they do not fall into it. Quite often, quick-release weights can be installed in such feeders - a quick and easy option for adapting to certain fishing conditions. Less often, but still, such light feeders are used for fishing in the water column.

4. VOLUME OF THE FEEDER

TO Of course, in terms of volume, or more precisely in terms of filling, feeders can be completely different. But in order to somehow estimate how much bait the feeder can bring to the fishing site, and therefore, albeit approximately, estimate how much bait to prepare for fishing, we will give a few numbers. This is the size scale for a popular open cylindrical feeder from a reputable manufacturer:

• Diameter: 35 mm, length: 47 mm, weight: 10 grams, filling approximately 40-50 grams.
• Diameter: 41 mm, length: 47 mm, weight: 10 grams, filling approximately 60-70 grams.
• Diameter: 45 mm, length: 66 mm, weight: 10 grams, filling approximately 90-100 grams.

E These numbers clearly show not only how much bait to prepare for fishing, but also show that a heavy feeder is not needed very often. And it will be more effective if the feeder is more voluminous with a low dead weight. And the total weight of the feeder with bait will correspond to the test of the spinning rod, and you will set the “table” for the fish faster.

5. CONCLUSION

IN All types of feeders for feeder fishing are almost impossible to consider in detail, but the main types that are discussed in this article will at least allow you to navigate their diversity. And knowledge of their functionality and purpose will allow you to choose the most optimal feeder for fishing in a particular reservoir. But let us emphasize once again that depending on conditions fishing, a lot depends, including the choice of feeder.

Happy fishing!

The success of fishing largely depends on the correct choice of equipment. This issue must be taken responsibly. One of the main elements is its feeder. They differ in a number of indicators. A special group includes feeders for strong currents. What this equipment is, its varieties, as well as methods for making it yourself - all this will be discussed further.

general characteristics

The equipment of a feeder rod requires the mandatory use of a feeder. This follows from the name of the type of fishing itself. The word "feeder" translated from English means "feeder".

This element of the fishing rod delivers bait to the required fishing spot. In this case, the feeder has a certain weight. Therefore, it also performs the function of loading. The feeder reaches the bottom and remains there, spraying nutritional components around. It is important that it is not carried away by the current.

When fishing for fish, the feeder should not cling to bottom vegetation or stones. Therefore, certain requirements are put forward for its weight and shape. There are feeders designed to freely spray the internal composition in the pond. Other designs, on the contrary, supply nutrients in small doses. The choice depends on the characteristics of fishing.

Weight

The feeder for fishing in the current should be heavy enough so that it does not get carried away. It should lie flat on the bottom. Feeders that are too light bounce around in the current. Of course, you should not expect that in a strong current it will lie firmly on the bottom. A displacement of 1-2 m is allowed. It rests on the unevenness of the bottom, fixed in one place. The weight of the feeders can be like this:

• 60-80 g - for weak flow;
• 80-120 g - for strong current;
• more than 120 g - for a very strong current.

The last of these options is rarely used. Such feeders are more suitable for fishing on mountain rivers. Most often, for medium and strong currents, feeders weighing 70, 80 or 100 g are purchased. Moreover, experienced fishermen note that when going to the river, you need to have several feeders in your arsenal. They differ in weight and volume. it is possible to select the best option for existing fishing conditions. Even in the same place, the current can change depending on the time of day or season.

Rod test

The equipment of the feeder rod is selected in accordance with the strength of the current. However, you should not forget about the test of the form itself. This range is indicated on the rod. These numbers indicate the maximum and minimum weight of equipment that can be used for this form. In this weight range it is possible to produce the most accurate casts.

If the feeder weighs more than indicated on the test, this may lead to breakage of the fishing rod while fishing. Too little weight of the equipment will not allow you to throw it far enough.

To take into account the requirements of the test, you need to add another 20-50 g to the weight of the feeder itself. This takes into account the volume of its internal space. The more spacious the feeder, the more complementary foods it will hold. It is allowed to exceed the upper limit of the test by 20 g. Otherwise, the structure of the rod may change. Fishing with such a form can be inconvenient.

Form

Feeders may differ in shape. Existing varieties can be divided into two large groups. These are square and round designs. This figure is determined in the cross section of the product. Previously, triangular feeders were used. However, today they have almost completely disappeared from use.

It is also worth considering that previously there was an opinion among fishermen that square feeders were more stable in the current. Today, many years of experience in using such gear have shown that there is no big difference. The choice depends on the preferences of the fisherman himself. On the current, fish are successfully caught with both types of feeders.

Moreover, over time, fishermen still come to the conclusion that round, cone feeders are a little better. They can be reeled ashore more easily without creating additional load on the reel. They float up faster when the line moves. This contributes to fewer snags of the tackle on uneven bottoms or seaweed.

How to choose tackle?

When choosing the best feeder feeders for the current, you should take into account the recommendations of experts. They highlight several of the most effective equipment configurations that are most suitable for such conditions. These include:

• metal mesh with lead plate;
• semi-closed feeders;
• structures with spikes or hooks;
• semicircular feeders with a flat base.

It is worth noting that all of the listed types of structures intended for strong currents must be made of metal. Plastic products, even in the presence of dense, heavy bait, are not able to remain in one place in the reservoir. They will be carried away by the current, which reduces the effectiveness of fishing.

Metal feeders with lead plate

The ideal option for fishing in currents are products with a lead plate. The mesh for feeder feeders of this type is large. Most often it has the shape of a flattened cylinder. A lead plate is soldered to one side of such a product. Its weight is at least 50 g.

The presented version of the equipment is attached to the main thread using a nylon leash. The bottom of such a feeder is covered with a metal plate with perforations. Its top is open to allow you to put bait inside.

Thanks to this design, the equipment is securely held at the bottom of the reservoir. The feeder quickly goes down after casting. The side to which the plate is attached weighs more. Therefore, it is the lower part of the feeder, with which it adheres to the bottom.

This shape allows the bait to quickly leave the mesh container, spreading with the current in the reservoir. In the direction of the flow, a “path” of nutrients appears. They arouse the fish's interest. The mixture is washed out of the container quite quickly. This can be both an advantage and a disadvantage. At the beginning of fishing, this feature is an advantage of such feeders. However, some types of fish can quickly get fed up and stop showing interest in the bait.

Semi-closed structures

Feeder feeders for strong currents can have a semi-closed design. This significantly slows down the rate at which the bait is washed out. This type of feeder is more suitable for catching bleak or roach. After intensive feeding of the fishing spot, you need to change the feeder to a semi-closed container.

The walls of this structure are also made of large metal mesh. However, one side of it is closed with a plug (can be removable or non-removable). There is also a piece of lead attached to the side. Due to the partially closed design, the windage of such gear increases. Therefore, it is worth choosing semi-closed type feeders that are heavier than conventional products with a metal mesh and lead plate.

Designs with spikes

Grouser feeders for strong currents are very popular today. It can be either an open or semi-closed design. It also contains a lead plate. However, its surface is distinguished by the presence of special spikes.

Thanks to the presence of lugs, such a feeder is firmly fixed to the bottom of the reservoir. Even a strong current is unable to carry it away. However, the scope of application of the presented equipment is limited. It cannot anchor well on a rocky bottom. The lugs perform their intended function only on a sandy or muddy bottom.

At the same time, in the reservoir where such a feeder is thrown, there should be no snags or dense vegetation. Otherwise, it will be difficult to get the equipment out of the reservoir. More often than other structures, it remains on the bottom, breaking the main fishing line or leash.

Semicircular feeder

Feeder feeders for strong currents can have a semicircular shape. They consist of a metal mesh. Also, similar structures can be made in the form of a spring. The bottom of this feeder is flattened. A lead plate is attached here.

The weight of such equipment may vary. Typically, the weight of such a structure without bait varies between 45-50 g. This is a fairly small weight for a structure designed for currents. However, its good fixation at the bottom is achieved by increasing the area of ​​the flattened base. The plate of this feeder is flat. It can be quite heavy.

The hemisphere of the body creates resistance to the flow of water. This also has a positive effect on the strength of maintaining the course of the feeder in the current. Moreover, such structures are easier to get out of the river. They float up faster when winding the fishing line onto the reel.

Homemade designs

Many fishermen prefer to create strong currents. This is quite an interesting process. To make one of the structures listed above, you will need to prepare suitable materials and tools. The first step is to prepare the lead. Its weight must be chosen in accordance with the strength of the current on the river.

The mesh can be made from the corresponding part of the car's oil filter. You will also need thin stainless steel wire and cardboard for the job. Lead is poured into a metal container. You should also prepare a container with sand.

A number of tools should also be prepared. You will need metal scissors and screws with wide heads (for metal). You will also need a screwdriver for this work.

Since lead is a material unsafe for human health, it can only be melted outdoors or in a very well-ventilated area. Otherwise, you can be poisoned by the fumes of this metal.

When considering how to make a donk with a feeder, you should take into account a few tips from fishermen. To smelt lead, you will need to take a small metal container. The base of the feeder can be made from a tin can. If desired, you can use old metal or tin containers.

To give the feeder its shape, you can use a regular matchbox. If its size is not suitable, a form is created from cardboard. However, it is worth considering that its height should not exceed 1 cm. Moreover, the length and width of the form may be different.

At the preparatory stage, the design should include a sealed ring. It is made from metal wire. The swivel and fishing line will cling to this ring. To do this, cut a piece of wire approximately 30 mm long. It is folded in half. One of the smaller sides of the cardboard box needs to be pierced with wire. Inside it, the “mustaches” are straightened. After this, the cardboard form must be buried in sand so that all its surfaces are covered with it.

Making a feeder

Having prepared everything you need, you can consider how to make a donk with a feeder. Most often, the sinker is made of lead. However, you can also take the plates from a car battery. They need to be thoroughly cleaned.

Lead must be melted in a prepared metal container. When it melts, the contents are poured into a cardboard box located in the sand. The material must harden. This happens after a few minutes and you can take out the finished plate. It is simply removed from the mold.

The body of this product is most often made of a material such as an automobile oil filter grille. The cylinder is cut lengthwise. Then a strip of mesh is cut out. Its width is equal to the length of the lead blank. The length of the strip is usually made about 10 cm or a little more. When cutting the mesh with metal scissors, you need to make sure that the edges are smooth. Otherwise, the line will constantly break when fishing for fish. Next, the mesh is rolled into a cylinder. The round holes on both sides should line up.

Completion of installation

When considering how to make a feeder feeder, you should consider in detail the procedure for completing its installation. You need to install a self-tapping screw into the rolled mesh. With its help, the body is screwed to the lead plate. If the screw goes through the lead plate, the excess must be cut off with a hacksaw.

After this, the feeder can be put on the tackle. If necessary, its bottom can be made blind or perforated. The bottom may be plastic. This plug is screwed to the mesh using stainless steel wire.

Having considered how to choose feeder feeders for strong currents, as well as creating them yourself, you can equip your bottom tackle correctly. In strong currents, the equipment will not be carried away to the side, which will increase the catchability of the feeder.