Alberto Angela One day in Ancient Rome. Everyday life, secrets and curiosities. One day in the life of Rome “Roman Forum” (see description above)

Alberto Angela

UNA GIORNATA NELL'ANTICA ROMA

Publishing CoLibri®

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I dedicate this book to Monica, Riccardo, Edoardo and Alessandro, with gratitude for the light you brought into my life

Introduction

How did the ancient Romans live? What happened every day on the streets of Rome? We have all asked ourselves similar questions at least once. This book is designed to answer them.

In fact, the charm of Rome cannot be described. It can only be felt every time you examine an archaeological site from the Roman era. Unfortunately, explanatory plaques and existing guidebooks in most cases offer only the most general information about daily life, focusing on architectural styles and dates.

But there is one trick to help breathe life into archaeological sites. Take a closer look at the details: worn-out steps of the stairs, graffiti on the plastered walls (there are a lot of them in Pompeii), ruts carts made in the stone pavements, and scuffs on the thresholds of houses left by the entrance door that has not survived to this day.

If you focus on these details, suddenly the ruins will be filled with life again and you will “see” the people of that time. This is exactly how this book was intended: telling a Great History through many small stories.

Over many years of television filming of monuments of the Roman era - both within Rome itself and beyond its borders - I have repeatedly come across life stories and curious details from the times of imperial Rome, forgotten for centuries and rediscovered by archaeologists. Features, habits, curiosities of everyday life or the social structure of the now disappeared world emerged... The same thing happened during conversations with archaeologists, when reading their articles or books.

I realized that this valuable information about the Roman world almost never reaches people, remaining “captive” of special publications or archaeological sites. So I tried to present them.

This book aims to bring the ruins of ancient Rome to life through a story about everyday life, answering the simplest questions: how did passers-by feel as they walked along the streets? What did their faces look like? What did the townspeople see when they looked out from their balconies? What did their food taste like? What kind of Latin would we hear around us? How did the first rays of the sun illuminate the temples on Capitol Hill?

You could say that I pointed the camera lens at these places to show how they might have looked two thousand years ago, so that the reader would feel like he was on the streets of Rome, inhaling their various smells, meeting the gaze of passers-by, entering shops, houses or the Colosseum. Only in this way can one understand what it really meant to live in the capital of the empire.

I live in Rome, so it was easy for me to describe how the sun illuminates the streets and monuments differently throughout the day, or to visit archaeological sites myself to notice the many small details that I give in my book, in addition to those collected for years of filming and reporting.

Naturally, the scenes that will unfold before your eyes during this visit to Ancient Rome are not the product of pure fantasy, but, as already mentioned, are directly based on the results of research and archaeological discoveries, laboratory analyzes of finds and skeletons or the study of ancient literature.

The best way to organize all this information is to organize it into a description of one day.

Each hour corresponds to a specific place and character of the Eternal City with its activities. This is how the picture of everyday life in Ancient Rome gradually unfolds over time.

Only the last question remains: why do we need a book about Rome at all? Because our way of life is a continuation of the Roman one. We wouldn't be ourselves without the Roman era. Just think: Roman civilization is usually identified with the faces of emperors, marching legions and colonnades of temples. But her real strength lies elsewhere. This power allowed it to exist for an unimaginably long time: in the West for more than a thousand years, and in the East, although with some internal evolution leading from Constantinople to Byzantium, even longer, more than two thousand years, almost until the Renaissance. No legion, no political or ideological system could provide such longevity. The secret of Rome lay in its daily modus vivendi, a way of existence: a way of building houses, a way of dressing, eating, interacting with other people in the family and outside it, subject to a clear system of laws and social rules. This aspect remained largely unchanged over the centuries, although it underwent gradual development, and allowed the Roman civilization to survive for so long.

And has that era really sunk into the past? After all, the Roman Empire left us not only statues and magnificent monuments. She also left us the “software” that supports our daily existence. We use the Latin alphabet, and on the Internet it is used not only by Europeans, but by the whole world. The Italian language comes from Latin. To a large extent, Spanish, Portuguese, French and Romanian come from it. A huge number of English words also have Latin roots. And this is not to mention the legal system, roads, architecture, painting, sculpture, which without the Romans would not be what they are.

In fact, if you think about it, most of the Western way of life is nothing more than a development and continuation of the Roman way of life. Just the kind we would see on the streets and in the houses of Rome during the imperial era.

I tried to write the kind of book that I myself would want to find in a bookstore, to satisfy my curiosity about life in Ancient Rome. I hope I can satisfy your curiosity too.

So, fast forward to a Roman alley in 115 AD, during the reign of Emperor Trajan, when Rome, in my opinion, experienced an era of greatest power and, perhaps, greatest beauty. Day is like day. It will dawn soon...

Alberto Angela

The world at that time

Under Trajan, in 115 AD, the Roman Empire was larger than ever before or since. Its land borders stretched along the perimeter for more than ten thousand kilometers, that is, almost a quarter of the circumference of the globe. The empire stretched from Scotland to the borders of Iran, from the Sahara to the North Sea.

It united a variety of peoples, including those who were different in appearance: these were the blondes of Northern Europe, the peoples of the Middle East, Asians and North Africans.

Imagine the people of China, the United States and Russia, who today would be united into one state. And the share of the population of the Roman Empire in the total population of the Earth was even higher at that time...

The landscape in this vast territory was also exceptionally diverse. Moving from one outskirts to another, we would, upon reaching the warm Mediterranean shores and volcanoes of the Apennine Peninsula, encounter icy seas with seals, vast coniferous forests, meadows, snow-capped peaks, huge glaciers, lakes, and rivers. On the opposite shore of “Our Sea” (that’s what the Romans called the Mediterranean Sea – Mare nostrum), endless sandy deserts (the Sahara) and even the coral reefs of the Red Sea would await us.

No empire in history included such diverse natural landscapes. Everywhere the official language was Latin, everywhere they paid with sesterces, and everywhere the same set of laws was in force - Roman law.

It is curious that the population of such a large empire was relatively small: only 50 million inhabitants, almost as many as live in modern Italy. They were scattered across myriads of small villages, towns, individual villa farms throughout the vast territory, like crumbs on a tablecloth, and only here and there large cities unexpectedly grew.

Of course, all settlements were connected by an extremely efficient network of roads, the length of which reached from eighty to one hundred thousand kilometers; We still drive cars along many of them. Perhaps they are the greatest and most lasting monument left to us by the Romans. But a little to the side of these roads - and around there are endless wastelands of untouched wild nature, with wolves, bears, deer, wild boars... To us, accustomed to pictures of cultivated fields and industrial hangars, all this would seem like a continuous series of “national parks”.

The defense of this world was supported by legions stationed at the most vulnerable points of the empire, almost always along the border, the famous "limes". Under Trajan, the army numbered one hundred and fifty, perhaps one hundred and ninety thousand men, divided into thirty legions with historical names, such as the XXX Ulpius Victorious Legion on the Rhine, the II Auxiliary Legion on the Danube, the XVI Flavian Steadfast Legion on the Euphrates, near the borders of modern Iraq.

To these legionnaires we must add the soldiers of the auxiliary troops, recruited from the population of the provinces, with whom the fighting strength of the Roman army became twice as large: thus, under the command of the emperor there were about three hundred to four hundred thousand armed men.

Rome was the heart of everything. It was located right in the center of the empire.

It was the center of power, of course, but also a city of literature, law, and philosophy. And most importantly, it was a cosmopolitan city, like modern New York or London. Representatives of various cultures met here. In the street crowd you could meet rich matrons on stretchers, Greek doctors, Gallic horsemen, Italian senators, Spanish sailors, Egyptian priests, prostitutes from Cyprus, traders from the Middle East, German slaves...

Rome has become the most populated city on the planet: almost one and a half million inhabitants. Since its appearance, the species homo sapiens I have never encountered anything like this! How did they all manage to get along together? This book will help shed light on the daily life of imperial Rome, at the time of its greatest power in the ancient world.

The lives of tens of millions of people throughout the empire depended on what was decided in Rome. And the life of Rome - on what, in turn, did it depend? It consisted of a web of relationships between its inhabitants. An amazing, unique world that we will get to know by studying one day of his life. For example, Tuesday 1892 1
The first edition of the book was published in 2007. (Editor's note)

Ago…

Before dawn

Her gaze is directed into the distance, like those of those who are immersed in deep thoughts. The pale light of the moon falls on a snow-white face, barely touched by a smile. The hair is tied back with a ribbon, leaving only a few unruly strands to fall onto the shoulders. A sudden gust of wind raises a whirlwind of dust around, but the hair remains motionless. No wonder: they are marble. Like bare arms and thousands of folds of clothing. The sculptor who carved it used the most expensive marble to depict one of the most revered Roman deities in stone. This is Mater Matuta, the “merciful mother”, the goddess of fertility, “beginning” and the dawn. For many years now, the statue has stood on an imposing marble pedestal at a street corner. There is only darkness around, but in the diffused light of the moon one can discern the outlines of a wide street with shops on both sides. At this hour of the night, they are all closed with heavy wooden doors, recessed into the floor and reinforced with strong linings. This is the lower part of huge dark buildings. There are black silhouettes all around us, sometimes it seems that you are at the bottom of a deep canyon with stars shining above. These are the houses of the poor, “insulas,” similar to our apartment condominiums, but much less comfortable.

The lack of lighting in these houses and in general on the streets of Rome is striking. But perhaps we ourselves are too accustomed to modern comfort. For centuries, with the onset of twilight, all cities of the world were plunged into darkness, except for the occasional lanterns of taverns or the lights of lamps in front of holy images, usually located in places important for the orientation of night travelers, such as road corners, intersections, and so on. It’s exactly the same in imperial Rome. In the darkness, the outlines of such places can be discerned, thanks to the few “lamps”, that is, lamps that are not extinguished inside the houses.

The second thing that strikes us is the silence. Fantastic silence surrounds us as we walk down the street. It is disturbed only by the murmur of water in the quarter fountain, a few tens of meters from us. It is designed quite simply: four thick travertine slabs 2
Travertine– calcareous tuff. (Editor's note)

They form a square container, above which a stele rises. The light from the edge of the moon, barely breaking through between the two buildings, makes it possible to see the face of the deity carved on the stele. This is Mercury, with wings on his helmet, and a stream of water flows from his mouth. During the day, women, children and slaves rush here with wooden buckets to collect water and carry it home. And now everything is deserted and only the sound of flowing water breaks our loneliness.

This silence is unusual. After all, we are located in the very center of a city with a population of one and a half million. Usually at night they deliver goods to the shops, the iron rims of the carts rattle on the cobblestone pavement, exclamations, neighing, and inevitable swearing are heard... These are the sounds that are heard in the distance. They are echoed by the barking of a dog. Rome never sleeps.

The road in front of us widens, revealing an illuminated area. Moonlight highlights the grid of basalt slabs that pave the street, like the petrified shell of a giant turtle.

A little further away, in the depths of the street, something is moving. The man stops, then moves again, and finally, staggering, leans against the wall. He's probably drunk. Muttering incomprehensible words, he wanders down the alley. Who knows if he will make it home. After all, at night the streets of Rome are full of dangers: thieves, criminals and various scum - any of them will not hesitate to stab anyone with a dagger, just to profit from something. If the next morning someone found a stabbed and robbed corpse, it would not be easy to detect the killers in such a densely populated and disorderly city.

Turning into an alley, the drunk stumbles over a package on the street corner and, swearing, continues his difficult path. The bundle moves. But this is a living person! One of the city's many homeless people, trying to get some sleep. He has been living on the street for several days now, after the owner of his rented room kicked him out. He is not alone: a whole family huddles nearby, with their wretched belongings. At certain points of the year, Rome is flooded with such people - leases are renewed every six months, and many find themselves thrown onto the streets, in search of a new shelter.

Suddenly our attention is drawn to a rhythmic noise. At first unclear, then more and more distinct. It echoes off the facades of houses, making it difficult to determine the source. The sharp knock of the bolt and the light of several lanterns make everything clear: this is a night patrol of the guard service, the “vigila”. How should their responsibilities be defined? Actually, they are firefighters, but since they still have to constantly carry out inspections to prevent fires, they are also entrusted with the responsibility of maintaining public order.

The Vigils have a military bearing, this is immediately noticeable. There are nine of them: eight recruits and a senior in rank. They quickly descend the stairs of the large colonnade. These people are authorized to go almost anywhere, because anywhere there could be a source of fire, a dangerous situation, or negligence that could lead to tragedy. They have just come from inspection, and the elder says something. He raised the lantern high so that the recruits could see him clearly: his massive torso and stern facial features were consistent with his hoarse voice. Having finished with the explanations, he finally looks menacingly at the rest of the Vigils, his dark eyes flashing from under his leather helmet, then shouts out the order to move. The guard marches too diligently, like all newcomers. The eldest looks after them, shaking his head, and finally leaves after them too. The noise of footsteps gradually subsides, drowned out by the murmur of the fountain.

Looking up, we notice that the sky has changed. It is still the same black, but the stars are no longer visible. It was as if an invisible, intangible blanket had gradually enveloped the city, separating it from the arch of stars. In a few hours a new day will begin. But this morning in the capital of the most powerful empire of antiquity will be different from all others.

Curious facts

The Eternal City in numbers

In the 2nd century AD, Rome is at the zenith of its splendor. This is truly the best time to visit. Like an empire, the city is experiencing a period of maximum territorial expansion, stretching over 1,800 hectares, about 22 kilometers in circumference. Little of. It has one or one and a half million inhabitants (and according to some estimates, perhaps even two million, slightly less than the number of inhabitants of modern Rome!). It is the most populous city on the planet in ancient times.

In fact, such a demographic and construction boom should not be surprising: Rome is expanding all the time, for many generations now. Each emperor decorates it with new buildings and monuments, gradually changing the appearance of the city. Sometimes, however, this appearance changes in the most radical way - due to fires, which happened very often. This constant transformation of Rome will take place over the centuries and will make it already in ancient times the most beautiful open-air museum of art and architecture.

The list of buildings and monuments compiled under Emperor Constantine looks impressive. Of course, we will not give it in full, but even if we list only the most important things, the list is still amazing, taking into account the fact that the then city was much smaller than today...

40 triumphal arches

12 forums

28 libraries

12 basil

11 large thermal baths and almost 1000 public baths

100 temples

3,500 bronze statues of famous people and 160 statues of deities made of gold or ivory, to which should be added 25 equestrian monuments

15 Egyptian obelisks

46 lupanarii 3
Lupanarium- brothel. (Note per.)

11 aqueducts and 1352 street fountains

2 circuses for chariot competitions (the largest, Circus Maximus, could accommodate up to 400,000 spectators)

2 amphitheaters for gladiator fights (the largest, the Colosseum, had from 50,000 to 70,000 seats)

4 theaters (the largest, the Theater of Pompey, with 25,000 seats)

2 large naumachia (artificial lakes for water battles)

1 stadium for athletic competitions (Domitian Stadium with 30,000 seats)

What about greens? Incredible, but true: in this city, so densely filled with monuments and houses, there was enough greenery. In Rome, green spaces occupied approximately a quarter of its area: about four hundred and fifty hectares of public and private gardens, sacred groves, peristyles of patrician mansions, and so on.

By the way, what was the real color of Rome? If you look at the city from afar, what colors would prevail in it? It is possible that these two are red and white: the red color of the terracotta tiled roofs and the bright white color of the facades of houses and marble colonnades of temples. Here and there in the reddish tiled sea it sparkles greenish-gold in the sun: these are the gilded bronze roofs of temples and some imperial buildings (over time, the bronze, oxidizing in the air, became covered with a greenish patina). And of course, we would notice a few gilded statues on top of columns or on temples overlooking the city. White, red, green and gold: these were the colors of Rome at that time.

6:00. Domus, home of the rich

Where do the Romans live? How are their homes arranged? In films and plays, we are used to seeing the Romans in bright, spacious houses with columns, internal gardens, fountains and tricliniums; the rooms in these houses are painted with frescoes. In reality, everything is different. Only the rich and aristocrats can afford the luxury of living in small villas with servants. There are not many of them. The vast majority of the inhabitants of Rome are crowded into large multi-storey buildings, the living conditions in which are sometimes reminiscent of life in the Bombay slums...

But let's take things in order. Let's start with the houses in which the elite of Rome live, with the houses of the rich, called domus. In Rome under Constantine, authorities counted 1,790 such houses; the number is undoubtedly impressive. But they were not all alike: some were large, others were small, due to the chronic lack of space in Trajan-era Rome. The house we are going to visit is built in a classical spirit, “in the old fashioned way,” to the great pride of the owner.

What is most striking is the appearance of such a house: like an oyster, it is closed in on itself. It is best to imagine a rich Roman house as a small fortress: it has no windows, except for a few very small ones located high up. There are no balconies either: the outer wall protects the house from the outside world. It simply reproduces the structure of archaic family farms from the era of the birth of Latin and Roman civilization, surrounded by a protective wall.

This “detachment” from the bustle of the streets is clearly felt even when looking at the outer door, almost faceless among the many shops clinging to its sides, still closed at that time. The main entrance is formed by large double wooden gates with massive bronze hinges. In the middle of each door there is a bronze wolf's head. There is a ring in the mouth; it is used as a door knocker.

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I hope this series of photographs will bring you even closer to the “correct” Rome. So, this story is about my Rome on July 13, 2014.

I am called to rise with the first rays of the sun by duty and conscience towards my clients - couples in love from different countries of the world who come to Italy before or after their wedding, and sometimes just for their anniversary or birthday. I am convinced that only at this time can you truly enjoy the city and take beautiful pictures. On my official website jakutsevich.ru you will find more photos and ideas for walks at dawn, and not only in Italy. But today my story is not about lovers, but about love for Rome.
Most often we meet with friends and clients at the Arch of Constantine near the Colosseum. Literally at the beginning of July it was finally freed from the scaffolding.

This is what the square near the main Roman attraction usually looks like at 6.30-7.00 in the morning. All public excursions start at 8.30-9.00, and before this time most people are not interested in it. This is why we schedule ours so early.

This morning I walked with Holly and Jordan, who flew to Rome from the USA six months before the wedding. For those who are interested, maybe a story about the guys.

On this day, according to all forecasts, even on the iPhone, weather forecasters promised heavy rains.

Of course, I don’t like getting wet, but as a photographer I simply adore this kind of light and clouds. Moreover, any rain tends to end, and in Rome it usually rains for a short time, but “like a bucket.” In any case, you can always pass the time in one of the many cafes with a cup.

A minute after the photo above was taken, it started pouring from that same bucket, and we jumped into a taxi and moved to . Here we had to wait for about 20 minutes under a canopy.

And, as usual, the clouds quickly cleared.

We admired the embankment and decided to go down to the river.

Who knows, but seagulls can be found in any weather.

Bridge of Umberto I - the second king of Italy.

In front of the Pantheon there is only us and a lonely umbrella seller, who during the day turns into a water or scarf seller.

Not far from the Pantheon is the Church of Sant’Ignazio di Loyola a Campo Marzio. We advise everyone to look there and admire the incredibly beautiful painting by the famous Andrea Pozzo, which creates the illusion of a dome, although the ceiling is flat.

Early in the morning after rain, even the central streets are completely deserted.

How do you like this Via del Corso without hundreds of shopaholic tourists?

And the most glamorous Via Condotti leading to.

We headed towards the People's Square.

Here we met several bored workers dismantling fencing after a recent concert.

The final destination of our morning walk was the Pincio hill and one of the most beautiful Roman parks. It is from here that one of the best free views of the panorama of Rome opens. This is where hundreds of tourists crowd during the day. In the distance you can see, as you can see, at 9 am there are not very many people who want to admire the panoramas of the Eternal City. And rightly so, in the morning there is no such suffocating heat that everyone loves so much in July-August, and it’s boring to be alone.

View of the People's Square.

It was here that we met with Holi's mother and brothers for a small family photo session.

It seems that the Vatican is just a stone's throw away.

And this is how proudly the city is located on Venice Square.

You can admire the Roman churches endlessly.

What's a morning without coffee? – you ask and you will be absolutely right.

Our entire delegation is in a cheerful and positive mood, and life is generally good with the chocolate croissant!

Editor-in-Chief of “ITALY FOR ME” Yana Yakutsevich is always happy to join us.

Our entire walk took about 4 hours and we were a little tired, but impressed by the beauty we saw, we went for a well-deserved rest to meet in the evening in one of the most atmospheric areas of Rome. Surprisingly, many tourists still haven’t heard of or ignore this gastronomic paradise – you won’t find such a concentration of bars and restaurants anywhere else in Rome.

It was especially deserted that evening, as most tourists were glued to the TV screens in the bars, which were showing the World Cup final in Brazil.

The bars themselves are very small and sitting inside is not particularly customary, so most of the fans hang out on the street.

It is in this format that most Italians while away their evenings if they want to socialize and have a drink. Sitting inside and throwing a feast for the whole world is not particularly customary. More often than not, everyone stands with glasses on the street next to the bar and after drinking a glass they move on to the next establishment.

This was my day in “proper Rome”. As you can see, no one stopped us from having a delicious and inexpensive breakfast and dinner, as well as comfortably enjoying the most popular places and attractions. You can love this kind of Rome and you can fall in love with this kind of Rome for life!

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What to do if you only have 1 day in Rome? We decided to put together 3 routes for you in case you only have a few hours to explore the beauty of the Eternal City. I would like to note that most of Rome’s attractions are within minutes of each other, and therefore you can explore most of them during an exciting walk.

3 routes The tours we offer differ from each other in pace, as well as in the number of attractions that you can visit. You can choose the most optimal option for yourself and navigate in the indicated direction. We will also take into account an approximate estimate of the time you will need to visit certain attractions. Perhaps you have only 6 - 8 hours left, since you are traveling on a cruise ship, then the first or second option will suit you, depending on your pace. If you prefer leisurely romantic walks, then option number 3 is more suitable for you.

Route No. 1 “Gallop across Europe”

(Targeted for travelers eager to visit as many attractions as possible in Rome)

1 “Colosseum”

Of course, the first stop on our route we chose the main symbol of Rome - the Colosseum. If you only have 1 day to explore the Italian capital, we do not advise you to visit the Colosseum from the inside. This can take a lot of time, because there are huge queues for tickets to the Colosseum, and besides, the inside is not as beautiful as the outside.

But, if you decide to visit it, then you need to read, which will help make it easier to purchase the coveted tickets.

2 “Roman Forum”

The Roman Forum is a truly grandiose attraction, once considered the main social, economic and political center of Rome.

Its visit is also included in the price of a ticket to the main amphitheater in Rome.

Walking past the Roman Forum and turning into the street Via di San Pietro in Carcere You will be taken to the next station on our journey.

3 “Capitolian Hill and Campidoglio Square”

Piazza Campidoglio is a trapezoidal space on which are located the Palace of Senators, the New Palace and the Palace of the Conservatives, as well as the statue of Marcus Aurelius, located in the very center. The ornamental design depicted in Piazza Campidoglio was designed by Maestro Michelangelo and was even minted on 50-cent coins in 2002.

4 “Vittoriano”

Going down the stairs, you have probably already seen the snow-white giant, popularly called Palazzo Vittoriano. Palazzo Vittoriano is one of the main symbols of the Eternal City and is a memorial dedicated to the first king of a united Italy (Victor Emmanuel II).

5 “Fountain di Trevi”

Hidden in the labyrinth of narrow Roman streets, the Trevi Fountain is perhaps one of the most romantic attractions of the Eternal City. Don't forget to throw a coin into the waters of the fountain and make a wish to come back here again!

6 “Piazza di Spagna”

Plaza de España got its name from the Spanish Embassy, located on the perimeter of the square. But the main characters of the square are rightfully considered to be the “Spanish Steps” and “Barcaccia”. “Barcaccia” is a fountain in the shape of a boat, designed by the genius Bernini himself.

7 “Via Condotti”

It’s hard to call it a stop as such, because Via Condotti is a legendary street where the most luxurious luxury boutiques are located, paving the way for our next attraction.

8 “Pantheon”

Perhaps the best and most impressive description of the Pantheon is the Temple of all Gods. A truly stunning large-scale structure, almost completely preserved in its original appearance and surviving to this day. There is a Roman proverb: “ Whoever was in Rome and did not visit the Pantheon left a fool" Plus, getting into the Pantheon doesn’t require a lot of effort.

Opening hours: Monday - Saturday - from 8:30 to 19:30 (last entry at 19:15),

Sunday from 9:00 to 18:00 (last entry at 17:45), holidays from 9:00 to 13:00 (last entry at 12:45)

9 “Piazza Navona”

Our next point of visit will be Piazza Navona - a favorite place for film directors and creative people. On it you can see 3 fountains (previously there were 4), the dominant one being the Fountain of the Four Rivers (it is located in the very heart of the piazza). Based on the name, you might have guessed that the fountain statues symbolize the Ganges, Nile, Danube and La Plata rivers. Another important detail is the fact that the fountain is the creation of the great sculptor Bernini.

Having enjoyed the local beauty and romantic atmosphere, we head through Via del Governo Vecchio towards our next station.

10 “Castle Sant'Angelo”

The large-scale building in the form of the Castle of the Holy Angel is especially charming in the evening light, when the walls of the Castle are filled with golden hues.

And in a 5-minute walk we can see...

...11 “Vatican”

The Vatican doesn't need much introduction, and neither does the Colosseum. If you decide to visit the Vatican Museums, you should first familiarize yourself with how you can purchase tickets. Keep in mind that visiting the Vatican on your own will take you from 2 to 4-5 hours.

In custody

In general, I would like to note that this tour without visiting the sights from the inside will take you on average from 3 to 6 hours.

Don't forget to use various map apps to save time and get to each attraction in the shortest possible way.

Route No. 2 “Non-standard”

Perfect for those who like unconventional paths, but we do not rule out visiting the most important symbols of Rome.

Some of the attractions are repeated in different routes, so if you cannot find a brief description of a particular place, look for them in the first route.

1 “Colosseum” (see description above)

2 “Roman Forum” (see description above)

3 “Vittoriano” (see description above)

4 “Capitol Hill” (see description above)

5 “Marcello Theater”

One of the most amazing buildings, externally reminiscent of the well-known Colosseum. However, many tourists do not even suspect that such a treasure exists and is located just a couple of meters from Palazzo Vittoriano and the Capitoline Hill, which is why there are so few visitors here and you can enjoy the beauty of the Marcello Theater to your heart's content.

6 “Temple of Hercules the Victorious”

One of the oldest buildings in the Eternal City. According to legend, here Hercules defeated Cacus, a monster who terrorized the local residents.

7 “Mouth of Truth”

Not far from the Temple of Hercules, across the road, you will most likely see a huge line of tourists eager to see the monument with the interesting name “Mouth of Truth”. There are many legends associated with this place, however, in order to admire the “mouth” you do not need to go inside, you just need to cling to the bars and you will be able to see the treasured monument.

8 “Jewish Quarter”

Returning to one of the above points, or rather to the Marcello Theater, you can go to the Jewish Quarter. By the way, it is in Rome that the largest Jewish quarter is located, as well as the largest synagogue in all of Europe.

9 “Campo de Fiori”

Quite ordinary at first glance, the square conceals in its heart the figure of a mysterious hero. His name is Giordano Bruno. You may have already heard this name and know its history. For those who are not familiar with it: Giordano Bruno was a pantheistic philosopher who was condemned by the Catholic Church for heresy and burned at Campo de Fiori.

10 “Pantheon” (see description above)

11 “Piazza Navona” (see description above)
12 “Cathedral of the Holy Angel” (see description above)
13 “Vatican” (see description above)

This route also requires a time estimate of 3 to 6 hours (not taking into account visiting attractions from the inside) and is not entirely standard, because the list contains places that are not spoiled by the attention of tourists, like the Colosseum or Piazza Navona.

Route No. 3 “Romantic”

(This route is perfect for romantic people who are not in a hurry to follow the frantic pace of life, but prefer to enjoy every moment, walking and absorbing the surrounding Italian atmosphere)

1 “Villa Borghese”

Villa Borghese is one of the largest park complexes in Rome: here you can find a variety of entertainment, from a small lake to a zoo and a hippodrome. Here is also one of the richest treasuries in Rome - the Borghese Gallery. Getting into the gallery is not easy, so first study the article "and calculate whether you can get into the treasure trove of masterpieces of world art. In general, a walk through such a magical park will give you a lot of pleasure.

2 “Piazza del Popolo”

“People's Square” is the real star of the Eternal City. According to local beliefs, Nero himself was once buried here!

3 “Via Margutta”

There is a small street located between Piazza del Popolo and Piazza di Spagna. It is located just a couple of meters from the bustling street with countless boutiques, Via del Corso. The wonderful and talented director Federico Fellini once lived on Via Margutta. Many poets, artists and creators of our time also find inspiration here.

4 “Piazza di Spagna” (see description above)

5 “Fountain di Trevi” (see description above)

6 “Pantheon” (see description above)

7 “Piazza Navona” (see description above)

8 “Castle Sant’Angelo” (see description above)

9 “Vatican” (see description above)

10 “District Trastevere”

An absolute must-visit area of Trastevere. It was he who absorbed all the most romantic ideas about Italy. There are restaurants with mind-blowing gastronomic masterpieces, cobbled streets covered with ivy, and a huge number of churches, each of which strives to enter it.

11 “Vittoriano” (see description above)

12 “Roman Forum” (see description above)

13 “Colosseum” (see description above)

It is difficult to determine the approximate time you will spend on this path, because it is designed for a more relaxed type of walk. Despite the very slow pace, all of the above places can be covered in the whole day.

We would like to remind you to take water with you, or at least a plastic bottle (this can be filled with clean water at fountains located throughout the city) to avoid dehydration.

In conclusion, I would like to say: it is impossible to bypass the beauty of Rome, even if you live in the Eternal City all your life. But we tried to highlight the main and unique places so that you can get to know the city a little closer. We hope this article was useful for you and you will have an unforgettableRoman holiday.

Early in the morning at dawn, the first sounds of a new day were heard in Roman houses. The slaves polished the marble floors with beeswax, rattled the dishes in the dining room, lit the fire in the stove, opened the shutters and prepared the details of the masters' daytime toilet. All Roman houses were happy in different ways, depending on the wealth of the owners. The owners themselves also woke up early, except for those cases when the parties turned into night festivities with friends.

The Romans were in a hurry to get to work. True, they worked until noon and a day or two later, since holidays in Ancient Rome prevailed over weekdays, and on weekdays after lunch the Romans organized holidays for themselves. How?

The pleasure principle 2000 years ago

In contrast to the principle of deprivation and suffering, legitimized several centuries later by the Church, the pagans of ancient Rome followed the principle of pleasure. They discovered it long before Freud's theory. If there was no god who could become the patron of pleasure in all its forms, the Romans borrowed it or invented it themselves. They were in a hurry to live. This innate impulse was creative and destructive for those times, but no one thought much about it.

The ritual of morning washing was performed over a basin or bronze bowl, but without soap - the Romans did not know it. Instead, beech ash, crushed clay and lye or bean flour were used. To make the skin smooth, it was then softened with an oil balm. They dried themselves with a linen towel. Men shaved every day, the elderly, oddly enough, did not hesitate to dye their hair black, and the bald ones did not neglect wigs. The slaves were responsible for ensuring that the men were clean-shaven, starched and dressed in a clean toga, and the women were fashionably combed, made-up and dressed in the best possible way. Wealthy Romans had slave hairdressers (tonsors) and ornatrices for matrons. The hair was curled with a hot iron rod - an analogue of curlers.

The Romans made their first breakfast hastily, very often on the way to work, buying cold or warm snacks in one of the many shops. After this, women either started household chores or visited friends and relatives. There were few working women in ancient Rome and they were mainly employed in craft workshops.

Roman Forum 2000 years ago - the meeting place could not be changed

At first they were places of lively trade or, simply put, ordinary markets. During the imperial period they became centers of attraction for the Romans. Basilicas were erected and Senate curiae appeared. Ceremonial processions of conquerors and demonstrations of loot from conquered territories took place here. The latest events could only be found on the forums. Former markets gradually turned into fairs, and then into cultural and political centers of the city.

Ordinary Romans who lived in multi-story buildings insulah, often in small rooms without sanitary facilities and water, gladly rushed to the forums in the morning: it was a way to join the good and feel like a resident of a great empire. Here verbiage and oratory were allowed in unlimited quantities and for everyone. Anyone could address the crowd from a makeshift platform and make a speech on any topic, except those that questioned the greatness of the empire and the status of the existing government.

There were at least eleven such forums in Rome during the imperial period. Both bread and circuses - everything could be given and received here to a resident of the ancient city in the rhythm of a rapidly changing daily life. Here trade agreements were concluded, prices for tradable and non-tradable goods were set, and the splendor of the colonnades and painted statues filled the hearts of the inhabitants and guests of Rome with pride and aesthetic satisfaction. After work (at about one o'clock in the afternoon), the Romans, having washed and changed clothes, flocked to the squares in the hope of getting a chance, a good offer, or buying first-quality overseas goods at the best price.

Healthy :

Roman bathing 2000 years ago

The ancient Romans believed that truth is in water. They even worshiped the goddess Veritas, daughter of Saturn, who was believed to live in the depths of wells. However, the Roman emperors, with the help of an army of thousands of slaves and noble craftsmen, allowed the inhabitants of the ancient metropolis to literally bathe in the true moisture of bliss. Aqueducts and baths were built, which completely changed the Romans' understanding of the properties of water and its political significance.

The famous baths of the emperors became the focus of a new culture and way of life in Ancient Rome. The Baths of Diocletian and Caracalla were visited daily by thousands of Romans, young and old. Libraries, playgrounds, health treatments, following the example of the ancient Etruscans, alternated with relaxation and solar treatments, and the fate of the republic was decided “on the sidelines” of the thermal baths or directly in the swimming pools.

Baths in the afternoon became an alternative to forums and circuses. Especially after Agrippa's greatest decision to make them free for everyone. You could see mimes, dancers, sellers of flowers and amulets, you could eat and drink plenty, you could bet on gladiators, have a love affair, or simply choose one of the priestesses of love. You could play sports or read ancient manuscripts.

The sophisticated mechanism of water procedures is only partially preserved today for reasons of economy. Meanwhile, Roman baths had their own rules for enjoying water. At first, visitors entered tiepidarium- a spacious pool with slightly heated water, in which they stayed for about an hour. Then it was the turn caldarium: here the water was heated to a temperature of approx. 40° C. Finally, the bather chose laconicum - a pool with hot water in a room with heated air (a prototype of a sauna). For final hardening, a tonic was used frigidarium with cold water.

The Colosseum and circuses 2000 years ago

Everything new is well forgotten old. Two thousand years before the advent of modern boxing, wrestling, fencing, horse racing and even football, Roman civilization enjoyed the confrontation of male power in its rawest form in numerous arenas and stadiums. The sight and smell of blood excited and intoxicated crowds of thousands of spectators, and the victorious gladiators became idols. Contrary to popular belief, the death of a gladiator in the Colosseum arena was not a common occurrence. The Romans were merciful in their own way, but at the same time practical: buying and training a gladiator cost a lot of money.

Roman inhabitants, unfortunately, did not experience the same sense of compassion for the wild animals that were included in the performances of the Colosseum. According to contemporaries, it is known that at least 5,000 wild animals were killed during the 100-day holiday in honor of the opening of the Colosseum.

Big Circus, or Circo Massimo, which could accommodate up to 300 thousand spectators, shook with exclamations and roars of an enthusiastic audience Roman skies almost every day. If you believe the legend, then the abduction of the Sabine women and the subsequent clash between the Latins and the Sabines, which miraculously ended in a strong union of the two tribes, occurred just after one of the equestrian competitions in the arena of the Circus Maximus.

But this was only a small part of the entertainment industry in Ancient Rome. There were stadiums - structures with a purely sports focus, among which is the famous Domitian Stadium, an exact copy of which is the current pearl of Rome - Piazza Navona. There were circuses in which battles were held on water and on life-size ships. Among them is Naumachia Augusta in the area of the current Trastevere quarter.

End of the day and dinner in Rome 2000 years ago

Tired of the sun and celebrations, the Romans ran into taverns before going to bed (analogous to today's fast food) or hurried home, where a dinner heated by slaves awaited them. They often dined in the presence of slaves huddled in the corner of the refectory. If guests were received, according to all the rules, dinner became an elastic concept. The slaves' job was to see off satisfied guests, light the way with a torch, or personally harness themselves to the cart.

After dinner, the couple retired to their chambers. In Roman families, if possible, spouses slept separately and only spent the night in a bedroom with a wide bed when necessary. This is one of the mysteries of the Eternal City. But the morning is wiser than the evening.

Historical events can be told in such a way that the reader (an ordinary reader, not a historian) will get bored with the monotonous abstruse narrative and cold numbers and put the book down after a dozen pages. Forever.

Or you can do it differently - lively, exciting, drawing parallels with modern times, thereby making what happened a long time ago close and understandable.
This is what Alberto Angela, an Italian paleontologist, archaeologist, writer and TV presenter, did.
In his book “One Day in Ancient Rome. Everyday Life, Mysteries and Curiosities,” he turned the reader into a secret observer of Roman life.

On one day in the year 115 AD, during the reign of Emperor Trajan, when Rome, according to the author, “was experiencing an era of its greatest power and perhaps its greatest beauty,” during a period when the Roman Empire extended from Scotland to the borders of Iran, and from the Sahara to the North Sea, following the author, the reader finds himself in the capital of the empire - in the houses of the Romans, on the streets of the city, in temples and schools, in the forum and markets, in court, at the execution of criminals and gladiator fights in the Colosseum, at the feasts of the elite and “at the tables » poor people.

The Roman modus vivendi (“way of existence”) - a way of building, a manner of dressing, eating, communicating in the family and with outsiders, a clear system of laws and social rules - in it Alberto Angela sees the secret of the longevity of the Roman Empire and its influence on the development of all mankind. And he talks about this Roman “way of existence” in his book.

The topic of Rome has always been interesting to me, and for some time now especially (practical considerations), so I not only read it, but also made notes for myself.
Interested in Rome? Then look under the cat.

Rome in the era of Emperor Trajan was a huge city at that time, its population reached one and a half million people.
A city where different cultures and beliefs met, the then “melting pot”.
He scared the provincials. Too noisy, frivolous, eccentric, filled with crooks and focused on profit. Those who were born in Rome or lived for a long time saw the city “full of life and fun” (according to Martial).

The differences between people were determined by their status, you were either a Roman citizen, or a foreigner (peregrinus), or a slave.
Slaves were classified as objects under Roman law, and their labor was the basis of the Roman economy.

In imperial Rome, different religions coexisted peacefully - along with the gods of the Romans (Jupiter, Juno, Minerva, Mars, Venus, Diana, Bacchus, Mercury, etc.), “foreign” deities imported from conquered lands were in use: Isis from Egypt , Cybele from the territory of modern Turkey, Mithras from Persia. In the common neighborhoods there were small Christian communities - about fifty years earlier they had been persecuted under Nero and had not yet recovered.
There were also several synagogues in Rome - many Jews moved to Rome after the destruction of Jerusalem by Emperor Titus in the 70s AD.
Later, under Emperor Constantine, Christianity will come to the fore and push all other religions aside.

In the meantime, the pragmatic Romans warmly accepted all cults, and everyone could believe what they wanted, but with one condition: to also make a sacrifice for the glory of the emperor, attend ceremonies in his honor and recognize his absolute power. The early persecution of Christians was due precisely to the fact that they refused to recognize the divinity of Nero and participate in imperial cults.

The new beliefs were more open to women than the cold official Roman religion, which was an exclusively male affair. Foreign religions penetrated into families, and there women became their preachers, thanks to their role in raising children.

The first stage of education in Rome was primary schools - children were gathered in groups in shops or on the street. If parents had money, then teenagers continued their studies, studying grammar, Latin and Greek literature. Knowledge of the Greek language largely determined one’s status and belonging to the noble class. The Romans considered Greece to be the true birthplace of the culture of the ancient world, and themselves as the sons and heirs of this great civilization.

Wealthy young men continued to study, mastering the rules of eloquence, preparing themselves for a public career.
Secondary and high schools were no longer located “in the dust,” like an elementary school, but in students’ homes or in special classrooms.

The rich man's house (domus) was a small fortress set back from the street without windows (only sometimes small windows were left in the upper part of the house). Such houses had atriums without a roof - through the spaces unprotected by the roof, light and water entered the house during rains. Water collected in the center of the hall in a pool (impluvium) and was drained into underground reservoirs. Water was also supplied to rich houses from aqueducts - personal water supply was a rare privilege, a consequence of useful connections and acquaintances. A prosperous Roman family owned between five and twelve slaves (and some families owned hundreds of slaves). The most reliable slave slept in front of the master's door. The furnishings in the house were sparse; the frescoes on the walls added brightness. Fragile and valuable items were stored in the cabinets - glass glasses, goblets, scales. Clothes were placed in wooden chests. Gold, documents, bills of sale on tablets or papyrus were stored in safes - chests with cunning locks.

Rome gave the world modern urban development.
Insula are the skyscrapers of Antiquity, multi-storey Roman buildings (from the Latin “insula” comes the modern Italian word “isolato”, meaning an entire isolated quarter). More and more people from all over the empire arrived in Rome, more housing was needed, so the city grew upward - up to six floors plus the attic (it was guaranteed to be an illegal part of the built house). The higher the floor, the poorer its residents. It is difficult to go upstairs without elevators; the higher the floor, the more precariously the housing is built and the greater the risk that a collapse will occur; it is more difficult to go down in the event of a fire, and those living under the roof were drenched in rain.

On the upper floors lived servants, teachers, small artisans, masons, porters, and suppliers of goods to shops and markets. Below are city officials. Even lower were entrepreneurs, wealthy merchants, and developers working in close contact with the imperial or senate authorities. Slaves maintained order in the house, and they carried water into the house. There is not enough space, even the staircases were inhabited. The higher the floor, the cramped and dirtier the apartment.
The windows on the upper floors were not glazed, they were simply covered with pieces of leather, linen or wooden shutters.

Each insula had an owner. But it was not he who collected the rent, but a professional administrator - he took care of the maintenance of the house and looked for tenants. The administrator paid the owner only for renting expensive prestigious apartments on the second floor, and took the rent for the remaining apartments for himself. Every six months, lease agreements were renegotiated and many found themselves thrown out onto the streets in search of new shelter.

The Romans had no point in spending a lot of time at home, so they headed to the city, to the forum, to the baths, or somewhere else.

You could go to watch the process in court, in the Basilica Julia - great trials took place there, but small cases were also considered, because in Rome it was customary to go to court for the slightest reason. The panel of judges (centumvirs, there are one hundred and eighty of them) was divided into four halls in which meetings took place. In each hall there was a praetor (chairman of the meeting), forty-five judges, a plaintiff and a defendant with their lawyers. And behind the backs of the participants, spectators gathered - ordinary people who loved to follow the debates in court hearings as if they were fascinating performances. Meetings that began in the morning could end at sunset. If the lawyers did not like the performances in one hall, the audience moved to another hall. The lawyer did not improvise; he followed a plan drawn up in advance. Careful preliminary preparation is the technique of many of the major lawyers of the Roman Forum. Lawyers constructed phrases, chose words, tone, set their voices and followed Cicero, who said that the art of an orator consists of three elements: the ability to excite, delight and convince. And they created spectacular scenes. The audience reacted to successful performances with applause, shouts and whistles (the first row of spectators, bribed by the “clack” lawyer, does not count, they made noise for money). The resounding success among the audience put psychological pressure on the judges and influenced the verdict.

Everyone knows about the Romans’ love of spectacle thanks to the Colosseum.
His “schedule” included “animal persecution”, public executions of criminals and gladiator fights.
Over four and a half centuries of operation, the Colosseum has become a place where the number of deaths per unit area is the highest in the world. According to some estimates, about a million people lost their lives in this arena.

Men under Trajan wore tunics, the rich wore a toga over their tunic - only Roman citizens could wear it. Only legionnaires wore pants. During this period of Roman history, it was customary to go shaven, otherwise they would not understand you, unless you were a soldier or a philosopher. Women also wore tunic-like garments. Women's clothing was brighter than men's and decorated with embroidery. Wealthy Roman women wore fancy hairstyles or wigs. Hair for blond and red wigs was brought from Germany, black - from India. Wigs were worn in the evening at feasts.

Most Romans were simple people, unpretentious in their food. An influential minority indulged in sumptuous dinners that lasted for hours, with seven courses. Such feasts were part of the lifestyle of wealthy Romans.
People were often invited to visit not because of a desire to be in company, but for political reasons and for the sake of prestige.

Roman cuisine of the Trajan era is reminiscent of Indian and Middle Eastern cuisine.
Dishes are flavored with seasonings, herbs and spices. In practice, the widespread use of herbs and spices in Roman cuisine is indispensable in order to overcome the smell of meat (and fish) “with a tinge.”
An unpleasant but inevitable reality in a world without refrigerators and preservatives.

The Romans preferred soft dishes to crispy ones (for example, they boiled meat before frying).
The Greeks, who always considered boiled meat too simple food, disdainfully called the Romans “eaters of boiled meat,” that is, rude people.
Meat is one of the favorites of Roman cuisine: it was not only fried on a grill and on skewers, but also chopped into minced meat and eaten with various fillings in the form of cutlets and meatballs. Or they stuffed pork intestines with meat trimmings and tripe - this, in fact, is nothing more than sausage. In imperial Rome, one could find a familiar dish - luganiga sausage (or lucanica, Lucanian sausage, as the Romans call it). It was prepared from chopped smoked beef or pork mixed with various spices - cumin, pepper, parsley or savory. Pork fat and pine nuts were added to the minced meat. The result is a real treat...
Another familiar dish is foie gras, goose liver: it was highly valued already in ancient Rome.

Among the products of that time, there were no tomatoes, large beans, corn, or chocolate, which are familiar to modern Italian cuisine. All this will be discovered in the New World thanks to Columbus. The Romans also did not know mozzarella, because it is made from the milk of the Asian buffalo, which had not yet been brought to Italy. The same goes for eggplants, which became widespread in the Middle Ages thanks to the Arabs. In the absence of tomatoes and mozzarella, no one has yet invented pizza. There is still spaghetti and other pasta products that have spread in Italy since the Middle Ages.

Of course, wine. According to Pliny the Elder and Horace, the best of all is Falernian, produced in the north of Campania. Martial prefers Albanian wine, which comes from the same area south of Rome where the famous Castelli Romani wine is now made. Horace continues the list, adding also Calen (wine for the rich), Massik and Caecuba, produced near Fondi in the south of Latium, which the poet considers “generous and strongest.”

Saffron, pepper, cumin, ginger, cloves, sesame seeds, oregano, sage, mint, and juniper were added to the dishes. Dates, raisins, pomegranates, pine nuts, various types of green salad, wild asparagus, turnips, cabbage, chickpeas, lentils, peas, beans, and various types of bread were popular. The most eaten meat was pork, and fish was expensive - two to three times more expensive than meat. Various birds were eaten - from blackbirds to flamingos, from cranes to parrots.
The markets had a large selection of snails, oysters, crayfish, lobsters, and shrimp.

At the beginning of Roman history, people ate mainly something like porridge - puls - with eggs, olives and sour cheese. To this was added a large amount of legumes and vegetables. Meat was rare; pork and chicken were more common. Indeed, until the 3rd century BC it was forbidden to slaughter and eat cows and bulls, which could only be used for field work and sacrifices.
Later conquests brought with them new trends and new products.

So, the protracted Roman feast is over. And after that I would return home alive, because Rome at night was unsafe.
As Juvenal wrote, “you could be considered careless if you went to dinner without making a will”...

This, according to Alberto Angel, was Rome during the reign of Emperor Trajan.

But all my notes turned out to be informational, not too lively.
Many life situations and stories described in the book were left behind.
For example, a morning in a rich man's house, a slave market, the birth of an heir to one of the Roman citizens, a walk through the Roman Forum, or the execution of a moneylender in the Colosseum.