Introduction and La Rioja

Every Spaniard, no matter how lazy he is, sooner or later reaches the Basque Country. Any voyage for a foreigner thoroughly exploring Spain should also include the Basque Country. Previously, it seemed to me that this was the situation because of its special history, the authenticity of the language and customs, and its dissimilarity from other regions. Now it has become absolutely clear that the reason is one and the most important - the Basque Country is insanely, simply heartbreakingly beautiful. Whatever the weather, whatever the season, this is a sparkling gem to be picked up, or at least remembered. Therefore, when we first had the opportunity to escape from Barcelona for a couple of days, the first thing we did was go to the Basque Country.

Legally and administratively, it is an autonomous community, or more simply put, one of the 17 autonomous regions of Spain. But only it was honored to be called just that, the Basque Country, the rest is bigger and simpler - Catalunya, Cantabria, Asturias, etc. Let’s skip the whole history and features of Basque nationalism; in the end, we went there for the beauty (and, as it turned out, also for the food). When you look at the map of the country, it seems close. in the northeast, Basque Country in the north. But it turned out to be not close at all. By car it takes the same 7-8 hours as to Madrid. By train or bus it’s about the same. And indeed, even more east than northeast, plus the mountains (the Pyrenees and their continuation to the east) separating Basque Country (another variant of the name) from the “mainland”, main Spain.

A few notes along the way as we drove up...



suddenly the Western Hemisphere! I had already forgotten that Greenwich is not only England, but maybe completely Western



somewhere in the vastness of Aragon. Everything is as it should be... Bychara, the fortress, the church.



If the Cantabrian Mountains suddenly begin to grow in the Aragonese fields, you know that you are in La Rioja!)



The town of Fuenmayor. We thought for a long time what kind of trees they were. came to the conclusion that in La Rioja these could only be overgrown vineyards. maybe we were wrong..

The path to the Basque Country may be long, but it lies through La Rioja, the wine-growing heart of Spain. It is separated into a separate province adjacent to Basque Country. And physically the vineyard fields are spread out so that the border running along the river imperceptibly divided them, leaving a good piece territorially right in the Basque Country. It seems like in Rioja, but our first stop was already in Basque Country. This is cute Bodega Isios . Bodega means winery. Nice means simply non-standard in appearance... Its roof repeats the silhouettes of the Sierra de Cantabria mountains, blocking the horizon from the North, from the wet and humid oceanic weather, which so interferes with winemaking. The construction was completed by the end of the 20th century, and the author of the project was a certain Santiago Calatrava (he also built the airport). Frank Gehry seems to have left not only a legacy here in Spain, but also an influence. More on that later, but for now let’s enjoy the views...



The Cantabrian Mountains themselves, by the way, are tightly covered with fog...



The noticeable “pixelation” of the photographs is nothing more than the design features of the roof.










Not a soul around, classic off season. We weren’t really keen on the excursion, but it seems that if we suddenly book it (the website says twice a day), then some grandfather will have to trudge from the nearest village, rattle the keys, open the doors and lead the excursion.. For now, we have enough knowledge that the name of the bodega Isios is a reference to the myth of Isis and Osiris (two gods who taught the ancient Egyptians winemaking). Of course, we also indulged in some half-harvested grapes. It tastes like sweet raisins.

Three hundred meters away, a local farmer was found caring for the trees. We inquired about the bodegas operating in the area, and received a finger pointed at the nearest cluster of houses occupying the hill. Dialogue:
- In this village?!
- This is not a village! This is the Capital!

It seems he was slightly offended, and the village turned out to be a city founded in 1164 with a proud name Laguardia . Later I read that there were a lot of interesting objects in it, but we rushed “into the depths”, in the literal sense. The entire hill on which it stands is cut by labyrinths of wine-growing caves. They are under every house here!



Laguardia dungeon map





streets of Laguardia







To get good wine you need time and consistency of four factors:
SILENCE, TEMPERATURE, DARKNESS and HUMIDITY
It’s even a pity that humidity doesn’t start with the letter T...

All factors are presented at their best in the artificial caves of Laguardia



It’s worth adding that in addition to wine, mold matures well in these conditions!



captured our basement specifically so that we could buy it in stores later
except Spain, exports only to the USA and UK


This seems to be a local football championship...

Very close by in the village of Escuernaga is located Hotel "Viura" . Local residents invited specialists from the architectural agency Designhouses and built a futuristic building in the middle of the village, right next to the Catholic Church. The principle is simple: “We have it, so we can too.” The expensive investment turned out to be extremely successful. The tourist flow has grown to an unknown village, increased tenfold, and white wine from the local Viura vineyards has also become better sold.

When I first heard about this hotel, I decided that it was definitely worth a stop, however, not believing that someday visiting this village would become a reality. A day before the trip, I read in guidebooks about room rates starting from 750 euros, and somehow I was suddenly surprised. I went to the hotel website and found that the next day when there are free rooms is March 3rd. That is, everything was booked for 750 euros more than a month in advance!!!

The reality turned out to be simpler. It’s still the off season, and all the doors are tightly locked. The darkness also did not allow us to enjoy the centuries-old contrast of Gothic and Art Nouveau. It went something like this:



The Internet, probably not without reason, spoils us with pictures like this:




The truth, apparently, is somewhere in the middle...

Vitoria and Bilbao

Well, since the hotel is closed, we went to the town to spend the night Vitoria.

I didn’t know such a city at all before. The discovery was that it turns out to be not just the second largest in the Basque Country, but also its capital! Many Basque cities have names in Spanish and Basque, often completely different, and therefore, so as not to offend anyone, they are signed with a double name on the signs. Moreover, the principle of which is first and which is second, it seemed to me, was taken from the bullshit, from Paul the octopus, or, more likely, from the alphabet.

To Vitoria-Gasteiz We have already let go of all the architectural beauty and just went to the bars. Luckily it's Friday evening. It seemed that the whole city was on the street and some kind of festival was going on. True, there is exactly one such street in the city...

The most important observation: Basques gather in groups of 2-3-4-5-6 people in their cafes, bars, pintxos and tapas, and just communicate and have fun. None of these hundreds of people had smartphones with Facebook, WhatsApp, Instagram, etc. in their hands! We, of course, had them, and we wrote to the rest of the world how cool it was here.

However, there are not many photographs left...

that's just a city clock



and an example of furious Basque on a street poster. I thought that the local team lost 0:4 and this was a call from local fans to play better... however, the Google translator rather refers to a meeting and meeting of the local nationalist cell.




And we’re moving right in the morning Bilbao . In Basque, Bilbo and Tolkien have nothing to do with it. The largest city in the Basque country, with an excellent football club and a complete absence of homeless people and simply suspicious individuals, who are full of them in Barcelona. Leaves the impression of the richest and cleanest city in Spain. And at the same time the most expensive. No Pakistani-Chinese shops or eateries. I walked several blocks, but could not find not only an Atlético jersey, but even shops with stupid magnets and mugs for one euro. Later, in San Sebastian, there was more time, and shops were found, but the T-shirts everywhere are not Chinese, but licensed!!! From 85 euros. In general, we now live without a Basque T-shirt, but purely in Barcelona style, with 15-euro Messi and Neymar.

You could probably hang out for weeks in this beautiful city, inspired by the fresh ocean breeze, so we decided immediately and clearly in advance. We study exactly two objects and move on.

1. Solomon Guggenheim Museum.
Everything here is simple and clear. An icon of the city, which is now no more than 20 years old. So well known (and even more so in sight) that many do not understand that Guggenheim is a philanthropist who founded a foundation dedicated to supporting contemporary art. The Foundation is already 80 years old, modernity has changed, but new contemporary art must also be supported! In addition, the headquarters of the foundation in the form of a huge, albeit slightly less, but still impressive, museum is located in New York. There are four Guggenheim museums in the world, and four more are under construction.

The building is a living embodiment of the ideas of the brilliant architect Frank Gehry and his deconstructivism. On previous travels I got acquainted with his “Dancing House” in Prague. But it turns out that right on the shore of our almost native Barcelona, ​​a huge golden fish, well known to all Catalans, proudly wriggles its body in the Olympic Village.

It is not at all necessary to go inside the Guggenheim Museum, and it seems that no one really does this. The art is modern, so you won’t see paintings by Velazquez and Goya there, as well as the more modern Dali and Picasso. The museum exhibits exhibitions. I didn’t even find out what exhibition it was on this January day. The sunny weather just screamed for the need to walk AROUND the museum, and not INSIDE it.


This is how deconstructivism bursts into the streets of a respectable European city



same street in the other direction



until 1997, it was this puppy, collected from flowering begonias, that was the main attraction of Bilbao

Behind the puppy, and above all of Bilbao, rises a skyscraper with the proud inscription Iberdrola, which translated into Moscow means “Mosenergosbyt”. How can one not remember Barcelona, ​​with its Agbar tower, which is essentially the office of an analogue of Mosvodokanal.



“If you have a puppy, you need a kennel,” the residents of Bilbao joked at the end of the last century. Frank Gehry designed the kennel.




“By the way, the Magritte exhibition is on now! Well, what nonsense,” we thought and continued our walk around the museum.
(in the comments on fb they explained to me that it is not Magritte, but the collection of the Hermann and Margrit Rapf family, in which there are a lot of Picasso...)










On the other hand, it’s a completely ordinary city. The Nevryon River and rowers on it.







Let's turn around and return to contemporary art.



76 large metal balls from Indian sculptor Anish Kapoor






you can see that there are huge metal multi-colored tulips lying near the museum wall,
Normally, they can only be seen as a visitor, wandering around the building.

here they are (not my photo)


The authorship of the tulips and the puppy belongs to the contemporary artist Jeff Koons

In general, I couldn’t shake the feeling that Banksy, the only contemporary artist whose last name was familiar to me before my trip to Bilbao, was clearly missing here.



The building is covered with titanium plates. They say it just glows at sunset. But noon is also good...




and here is the largest arthropod in Spain - a metal spider from the American sculptor and at the same time Frenchwoman Louise Bourgeois



With all the surrounding miracles, it seems that the most mysterious sculpture was not noticed by us (or misunderstood? or came at the wrong time?). Which is no wonder, because the sculpture simply disappeared into thin air! There is such a contemporary artist - Fujiko Nakaya. She creates her sculptures from the fog. The fog here rises from a small lake under the walls of the museum, bubbles, creates figures and, as is typical for fog, disappears.



a piece of everyday life sandwiched between constructivism and deconstructivism

Constructivism is represented here as a bridge spanning the river right next to the museum.

It was not possible to find out the name of the author of the design, but this did not make the bridge any less constructive. It has already been repeatedly seen above in photographs, with a huge red gate at the entrance.









under this wonderful bridge, instead of terrible trolls, there is beautiful graffiti lurking

It should be noted that there are two other absolutely fantastic bridges in Bilbao

The first is the pedestrian Zubizuri. We didn’t go to it, fortunately it can be easily seen from afar, just from the Guggenheim Bridge. Although it might be worth it...



this is Zubizuri, with another hair-raising Basque name...

and the second bridge is Biscay, but more about that a little later, but for now we’ll continue walking around the Guggenheim Museum






As a child, Fank Gehry was fond of either fishing or aquarium fish, so many of his creations embody the idea of ​​“fish movement in water”



however, from some points of view it is still complete chaos. Complemented by the Iberdrola skyscraper












lake for fog



2. Biscay Bridge

This is our second stop in Bilbao. And just a wonderful bridge. Strictly speaking, this is no longer Bilbao, but its two northern suburbs (Portugalete and Getxo) on different banks of the river. The most amazing thing about this fairly popular place (only here in the Basque country did I meet African Africans selling souvenirs) is that the bridge can be used for its intended purpose. That is, the landmark has not sunk into history, but continues to remain a functioning object. With a fairly low throughput (6 cars one way per trip), there are no significant traffic jams along the banks. Well, you'll have to stand for 15 minutes, hardly more. However, it’s difficult to say whether there is a rush hour here. We crossed the river by car on Saturday afternoon.

You're rolling along the narrow streets of Portulagete, and suddenly he appears in the sky...




My first associations are with San Francisco, although they are certainly not true. The Eiffel Tower should have popped into my head, because the author of the design was Alberto di Palacio, one of the master’s students.

Directly under the supports - yes, already bigger than Paris.


















People, cars, cyclists, everyone moves on a platform that rolls from the river to the shore. The trip is about a minute and a half. The longest part is loading and unloading. The idea of ​​origin is the same as that of the Tower Bridge and the bridges of St. Petersburg. Along the river from the Bay of Biscay, large-caliber ocean-going vessels were supposed to go as deep as possible into Bilbao, to its shipyards. But it is also necessary to somehow connect the residents of the two banks with regular communication.


Filmed directly from the inside) without leaving the car (they’re forbidden to get out, but it’s so tight there that the door won’t even open)



the history of Basque bridge construction, and at the same time all types of tickets of all types moving...



We couldn’t help but note the monument to the Wheels

From the other side of the suburbs of Bilbao, the smell was no longer of San Francisco, but of some kind of Scandinavia. Stockholm.







and indeed... Northern Spain is very similar to Northern Europe.
neat, safe, sleek, not at all hot

Gaztelugatxe

After leaving Bilbao, do not despair. After all, the Basque Country is just beginning, and still has a lot of discoveries and surprises in store for the traveler. The Basques are a stern, proud people. The coastline matches them. Gloomy steep cliffs, dissecting the rushing ocean into fountains, sometimes part, letting waves into hospitable comfortable beaches-lagoons. The resorts where you can film “Santa Barbara” are adjacent to the ideal sets of some horror movie filled with haunted castles.

So is Gastelugache . Translated from Basque as “Castle on the Rock” or “Rock Castle”. It’s not immediately clear what we’re talking about, because perched on the top of the island is an ordinary church, founded in the 10th century by the Templars, and not a castle at all. But the point is different: the whole island is a castle. And it was not built by the Templars, but by someone more helpful. Huge stone columns and waves rumbling under the arches are proof of this.

People also added stories later, one famous land battle of the 14th century, one major sea battle of the 18th century, and even the pirate robbery of this not-so-rich church by Francis Drake himself.

Now everything is in the past, the island is connected by an artificial passage to the land, and Gaztelugatxe falls into the strange Top of “The Most Famous Staircases in the World,” along with the Hawaiian Staircase to Heaven and the Spanish Steps in Rome.



The entire Basque coast is something like this: windy, sunny, wooded and rocky. It took quite a lot of effort to convince the companions not to stick to every available Mirador (observation platform), but to specifically locate themselves in Gaztelugatx



Just in case, after getting out into the street, we get acquainted with these seemingly harmless woolen coconoas. We familiarize ourselves visually and very carefully. They are everywhere here, precisely in the coniferous forests, and probably pose the greatest danger to a traveler through the mountains and valleys. (Not counting, of course, the angry forester who smelled your xter). In these cocoons some terrible Processionaria caterpillars overwinter, capable of leaving burns akin to the burns of the well-known Russian hogweed or Uzbek carrot.

A must-read for anyone going on a Spanish trekking trip.

Gaztelugatxe itself is not visible directly from the road. The island hid. When you start to go down somewhere from the top, this island first appears:




and only then Gastelugache



and then, it is visible only because for the sake of a beautiful view from Mirador, it seems that pine trees along the entire slope had to be cut down along with the passionary caterpillars on them...






It's the end of January, but spring is already in the air...

These are just flowers.. Or just flowers
On the way here in the mountains, we ran straight into a wild mimosa garden and barely made it out. Another half hour and our group would have started to resemble Ellie and her friends in the poppy field










But it's time to return to Gaztelugatxe.






It is not very clear which species is the most impressive. Therefore, we have to offer everything for viewing. Thank God, in Spain I don’t have the most outstanding camera, and I myself am far from a professional photographer. Otherwise, we’ll be stuck in this Gastelugach until dark.






cloudiness, constantly changing lighting, adds additional charm. as if hinting that every moment is unique and unique


This is an artificial passage connecting Gaztelugatxe with the mainland. Looks scarier in the photos than in reality. Although, if the waves were the same as on the day this post was written (an eyewitness says that today in Galicia there are almost 15 meters...)






the smallest of the arches, periodically completely under water



The climb, although it looks impressive, is not very long. Took something like 3 minutes. But it is divided into 13 sectors, signed with Roman numerals and delimited by metal crosses. The last one is right next to the church.








a beautiful sticker on one of the technical modern hatches is already on top



Some prisoner could probably be imprisoned here.

However, it is quite cozy inside. Something like a canopy to hide from the rain and wind, tables, chairs, fireplace (you can bring firewood). There is no staff.




Church services are held extremely rarely. All closed. But there is a bell that can ring for anyone who wants to ring it. A huge stone cross gracefully combines with a thunderclap, you feel like you have Christ in your bosom.



They called and it was time to go home. To the sinful land of the Iberian Peninsula.







Near the parking lot, already at the top, is a mysterious open-air agricultural museum. Tightly closed.




Therefore, our only trekking in the Basque Country, two half-hour walks under the ocean winds, is over. It's time to celebrate it successfully. Actually, I was going to do three trekking trips, but something went wrong)) Possible reason: switching attention to another, probably the most important, Basque attraction - food.




For me, Basque food has always been tapas, pintxos and cider. There is also cod and all kinds of meat, but there is no strength (stomach size) left for this. Therefore tapas, pintxos and cider. The cider is not at all what I am used to drinking (sweet with bubbles), but real. Sour, fermented, aromatic apple juice. While the rest of the country cultivates vineyards and infuses wine, its cold, rainy northern provinces (the Basques, along with Cantabria and Asturias) grow apples and bottle the world's best cider. Although I suppose residents of some regions of northern France think differently. Cider in the Basque country is sealed with a regular cork, but another plastic bottle is served at the table along with the opened bottle. This embodiment of the design idea not only allows you to painlessly cork an already open, unfinished bottle, but also, if positioned correctly, also pour the cider as expected, in a high stream, which is saturated with oxygen as it flies from the neck to the glass. We collected these traffic jams as a souvenir!

And let's move on.

Curiosity, mystery, anxiety, wariness. Such words appeared in my head when the words Basque Country were uttered.

Why country? After all, I’m already in the country of Spain?

Why a mystery? Being part of Spain and speaking Castilian, a member of the Indo-European family of languages, the Basque Country has a language unlike any other in existence. The origin of this language remains unclear.

After reading a sentence in Basque, the thought arises about the similarity of phonetics with Etruscan. The same impression occurs when comparing the Georgian and Basque texts: Cargo. Kat "si sin movida - “A man has come.” Basque. Kac-i midis - “A man is coming.” http://www.garshin.ru/

Anxiety and wariness due to the famous nationalist separatist organization ETA (Basque Country and Freedom). What are they fighting for, what do they want?

I searched for answers to these questions for several days on my short trip to the Basque Country.

On the Atlantic coast of Spain between the Bay of Biscay and the Cantabrian Mountains is the autonomous region of the Basque Country, whose name in Basque sounds like Euskadi.

The glory of the Basque Country comes from its people, from its language, from its people - energetic, strong, resilient, as if carved from stone, hardened in the fight against an unruly and stormy ocean, winds, endless rains and fogs.

The Basque Country is located in the north of the Iberian Peninsula and consists of three provinces: Alava, Vizcaya, Gipuzkoa.

This is the autonomous region of Euskadi or otherwise Baskonia with its capital in the city of Vitoria.

Vitoria is the name of the city in Spanish and the Basque name Gasteiz is added to this name.

Vitoria-Gasteiz is a city with a population of 241 thousand people. The government and parliament meet in the capital, Vitoria-Gasteiz.

In 2012, the city became the green capital of Europe, and in 2014 the gastronomic capital of Spain.

The heart of the capital of the Basque Country, Virgen Blanca Square

Snow-white Virgin Mary. White color is purity and purity. The legend about the appearance of the cult of the Snow-White Virgin Mary is associated with Rome, where in the summer of 352 snow unexpectedly fell and one of the four papal basilicas of Santa Maria Maggiore was erected on this site.

Every year on December 4th, a character from the Celedón folk festival descends from the bell tower of the San Miguel tower.

In the center of the square is a monument to the victory in the battle of 1813 over the French troops of Joseph Bonaparte.

After the defeat of the French, the British allies discovered paintings by Spanish artists in the French convoy. It is for this reason that in London, in the mansion of the Dukes of Wellington, a large collection of Spanish paintings is kept.

Gothic Church of St. Peter the Apostle, XIV century. The portico of this church with scenes of the acts of Mary and Peter the Apostle.

The façade of this church faces Machete Square. Machete is a long, wide knife. In everyday life of peasants in Latin America, it is used for harvesting sugar cane. In Medieval Vitoria, the machete was an instrument of justice - they cut off the hand of someone who did not fulfill a promise. The townspeople do not object to the return of such a tradition.

A street with countless restaurants. Correria kalea - in Basque. In addition to the famous pintxos appetizers, in Vitoria they prepare blood sausages - morcillos, fabada - roast in all sorts of variations, and octopus on coals.

Carefully! Do not enter this street hungry. It always smells like delicious food here. Pipes from all restaurants are located in one place.

Household little things are also interesting to know. Rains from the Bay of Biscay are an integral part of life; people get used to them and take them into account.

An excellent decision by the city authorities to give away the old city walls for graffiti. They paint the walls not just with whatever comes to mind, but each theme is coordinated with the mayor's office and repeats a historical episode. For example, in front of you is a silk market.

Majestic arch, entrance to the territory of the old city

The path to the relics of St. James in Vitoria runs at the foot of the old Cathedral. On this same street, in an ancient house, you will be fed so that you will remember for a long time, rolling your eyes to the sky.

One of the most beautiful and famous palaces in Vitoria is named after the Marquises of Montehermoso. Maria Pilar Acedo, the young wife of the Marquis of Montehermoso, fell in love with Joseph Bonaparte when their Majesty deigned to attend a gala dinner in his honor held in this palace.

Palace of Villasuso. 1539 Renaissance.

Contains a unique 16th-century tapestry with scenes from Huída de Eneas y su familia de Troya. Currently it houses the Palace of Congresses

Bell tower of the late Gothic church of San Vicente Mártir. The church was built in Vitoria during the era of King Sancho VI of Navarre.

Sancho VI the Wise was the first of the kings to call himself King of Navarre.

10 features of Vitoria - Gasteiz that can be included in your travel program:

1. On foot or by bicycle (the mayor’s office provides it for free) take a stroll through the Green Capital of Europe.
2.Visit the Old Cathedral in construction helmet
3. Have a snack at the pintxos bar with the most exquisite “pintxos-winners” of gastronomic competitions.
4. Tasting, and this is a whole art, such wines that you will then look for in all other cities of Spain.
5. In July, listen to the world's best performers at a jazz festival
6. Visit the Bibat Museum, a museum of archeology and playing cards.
7. Take a look at the pastry shops of the city called Goya, an integral part of the local flavor.
8. Fortress walls that can take you back to the Middle Ages.
9. Walk a part of the pilgrimage route to the relics of St. James.
10. Take a unique route through modern wall paintings.

Everything about the Basques in the book:
Baroja H. Caro. Basque. Translation from Spanish. 2004. 320 p.

Basque Country. Vitoria - Gasteiz. Excursions with a Russian guide.
The article was prepared by Raisa Sinitsyna.
Contacts:

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34 690240097 (WhatsApp/Viber)

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Basque Country: where is the best place to relax and buy real estate?

The Basque Country (País Vasco) is an autonomous community in northern Spain, on the border with France, and one of the most “untapped” regions of the country by foreigners: according to the Association of Property Registration Inspectors (Colegio de Registradores de España), in 2014 foreign buyers Only 1.5% of transactions were made here (the average in Spain is 13%).

Alava: rural landscapes and wine tourism

Among the provinces of the Basque Country, Alava is the most unpopular region among foreigners. According to the Association of Real Estate Registration Inspectors, in 2014, purchases by foreign investors accounted for only 0.8% of the total number of real estate transactions in Alava. For comparison, in Vizcaya the share of foreigners in the market is 1.4%, in Gipuzkoa - 2.0%.

Alava has many ancient towns with traditional architecture

Most of Alava's territory is flat, dotted with vineyards. There are picturesque villages and medieval fortresses here. The city is interesting for culture lovers Vitoria-Gasteiz, rich in architectural monuments: palaces, monasteries, churches and simply beautiful residential buildings. But there are no resorts in Alava, since the province has no access to the sea.

But in Alava it will be interesting for fans of wine tourism. Spaniards from other regions often come here to taste wine. This is where the Marqués de Riscal wineries are located. The futuristic Starwood Hotels & Resorts, designed by the famous architect Frank Gehry, is especially popular among lovers of this drink. It offers a wine restaurant and spa wine therapy.

Real estate in Alava is cheaper than in the other two provinces of the Basque Country - on average about 2 thousand euros/m².

The layout of housing in the Basque Country differs from the layout of houses and apartments on the Mediterranean coast of Spain: in the north there are often properties with a large number of rooms. For example, there are many apartments on the market with an area of ​​up to 550 m² with 5–8 bedrooms, and the average area of ​​two- and three-bedroom properties can be 150–300 m². This scale is explained by the fact that historically the northern part of Spain was a vacation spot for high-ranking families and nobles, members of the royal family. In addition, having 5–8 children in a family in those days was the norm, hence the number of rooms. Large areas are also due to the peculiarities of the region’s climate: precipitation here is heavier and temperatures are lower than in the south, so local residents spend more time at home than southerners.

Vizcaya: developed economy and natural attractions

Vizcaya is one of the most prosperous and industrialized provinces of Spain. On its 80 km long coastline there are numerous resorts with sandy beaches surrounded by cliffs and many fishing villages.

The largest city in the Basque Country and the capital of Vizcaya - Bilbao. More than 350 thousand people live here. Among other things, it is the largest commercial port and one of the most dynamically developing cities in the country. Many people consider Bilbao not the most beautiful city, especially its industrial suburbs. But Bilbao also has its advantages: it is a city of entertainment with many restaurants to suit every taste. One of the symbols of the city is the Guggenheim Museum, which, like the Starwood Hotels & Resorts in Alava, was built according to the design of Frank Gehry.

15 km from Bilbao there is a beach where locals come to relax. The surrounding area has four renowned golf courses, many hiking trails, spa hotels and thermal springs; Alpine skiing is popular in the winter months, and horseback riding in the summer.

The average cost per square meter in Bilbao exceeds 3 thousand euros, but this is not yet the most expensive city for buying property in Vizcaya. You can buy an apartment with 2-3 bedrooms here at a price of approximately 110 thousand to 230 thousand euros.

Bilbao struck me as a modern and growing city with interesting architecture. It has everything a metropolitan resident needs: schools (British, American, German, French), offices, fashionable shops, medical facilities and, of course, real estate for every taste - economy class housing, mid-price range and luxury apartments in central streets. At the same time, Bilbao is a calm city with a favorable climate, parks and eco-reserves in the surrounding area. Property owners in Bilbao typically travel to the beach in Getxo (10–15 minutes by metro or car).

Guggenheim Museum Bilbao

It is in Getxo, a town located 15 km from Bilbao, that the highest property prices in Vizcaya. A square meter here costs an average of 3,316 euros - this is one of the most expensive markets in Spain.

In the 19th century, Getcho became popular among the wealthy bourgeoisie. Nowadays, it is also in demand among wealthy people, which explains the high prices for houses and apartments. Getxo attracts buyers of luxury real estate due to its close location to Bilbao (the provincial capital can be reached from here by metro) and developed infrastructure with a lot of entertainment: there is a marina, a golf course and several sports complexes.

Northeast of Bilbao is located Bermeo(Bermeo) - a port city with a fishing harbor and a large number of fish restaurants, - and Mundaka(Mundaca) is a small resort that is interesting to everyone: surfers, gourmets, and art lovers.

Just north of Mundaka is Urdaibai, a protected natural area with marshes, lakes, sand dunes, caves and the “magical” forest of Oma (Bosque de Oma), in which pine trees grow, painted in different colors by the artist Agustín Ibarrola.

Urdaibay - a quiet place for a family holiday

About 20 km east of the Oma forest there is a seaside town Lekeitio- one of the most beautiful places on the coast of the Bay of Biscay. This city competes with San Sebastian for the title of resort capital of the Basque Country. The calling card of Lekeitio is the turquoise sea with snow-white sailboats and a sandy beach, overlooking the nearby island of St. Nicholas (Isla de San Nicolás). The old city has a lot of interesting things: palaces, towers, churches, monasteries.

50 km from Bilbao there is a port town Elanchove(Elanchove), which is surrounded by steep cliffs covered with forest, is one of the most interesting holiday destinations in the Basque Country.

Gipuzkoa: fish restaurants and luxury accommodation

Gipuzkoa is the most popular region among foreign property buyers in the Basque Country and the smallest province in Spain. It borders the French department of the Pyrénées-Atlantiques.

The 50 km long coastline of Guipuzcoa is home to many fishing villages, beaches and lush cliffs. The main resorts in the province have common features: quality beaches, excellent seafood restaurants and an abundance of attractions.

The administrative center of Guipuzcoa is San Sebastian. Many people put this city on a par with such fashionable resorts as Nice and Monte Carlo; they often call it Paris on the Atlantic or Spanish Biarritz, since the central areas of San Sebastian are reminiscent of French cities in architecture. In 2013, Condé Nast Traveler named the city the fifth most popular tourist destination in the world and the first in Spain. San Sebastian attracts tourists and property buyers with its blooming gardens, summer festivals, the country's best restaurants, green hills and picturesque views of the Bay of Biscay. “This is one of the most beautiful and safest cities on the Atlantic coast. The city is popular among surfers; almost every local resident is passionate about this sport,” says Alina Batyrshina.

Due to the many restaurants with Michelin stars, San Sebastian is called the gastronomic capital of Spain

Many Spanish analysts call San Sebastian the most expensive real estate market in Spain. However, according to data from Fotocasa.es, a square meter in Zarautz (another city in Guipuzcoa) costs more - an average of 4,331 euros versus 4,124 euros in San Sebastian. However, in the provincial capital there are villas that are put up for sale for 5–6 thousand euros/m².

San Sebastian survived the crisis better than other cities in Spain: if in the country as a whole, housing prices fell by 40–45% from 2007 to 2015, then in this city the decrease was no more than 10%. Today, high-quality apartments here cost from 450 thousand euros to several million. Such high property prices in San Sebastian are associated with the local high standard of living (a third higher than the national level and even higher than in Madrid and Barcelona) and high salaries (about a quarter above the Spanish average).

The resort town is located 20 km from San Sebastian Zarautz. It is interesting for its three-kilometer beach (the longest in the Basque Country), as well as Narros Castle (Palacio de Narros) with a collection of Van Dyck paintings. Zarautz has been popular as a resort since the late 19th century, when many luxurious mansions were built along the coast. At different times, Queen Isabel II of Spain and Queen Fabiola de Mora y Aragón of Belgium came here for a summer vacation. Now many of the old mansions have been demolished and apartment buildings have been erected in their place. Zarautz is also famous for its good restaurants, one of which is owned by the famous Spanish chef and TV presenter Carlos Arguinano. In addition, the resort is also famous for its waves, ideal for surfing. World championships in this sport are held here. A 20-minute drive from Zarautz there is another center of attraction for surfers - a resort Deba(Deba).

View of Zarautz

A little east of Zarautz there is a fishing village Getaria(Guetaria), one of the most beautiful on the coast. The famous navigator Juan Sebastián Elcano was born here, who made the world's first trip around the world in the 16th century. Getaria has many restaurants with terraces and ancient buildings, and there is also a spacious sandy beach. Attractions include the Gothic Church of San Salvador (Iglesia de San Salvador), the Aldamar Palace (Palacio de Aldamar) and the traditional houses of San Roque Street.

About 20 km east of San Sebastian, near the border with France, there is a fishing town Fuenterrabia. It is famous for its fish restaurants and well-preserved buildings of the old town. In the summer, Madrid residents love to come here on vacation. Many Spaniards admit that the quality of local cuisine is at the same level as in San Sebastian. A square meter in Fuenterrabia costs an average of 3,600 euros.

The Basque Country is conducive to travel. Of all the cities in the region, I would recommend buyers choose San Sebastian or Bilbao. Both places are suitable for permanent residence and for holidays. San Sebastian is loved by older people, families with children, and young people. Life in this city never stops day or night, and in the summer season it is popular with tourists. Bilbao is a calmer city compared to San Sebastian, but it also has all the necessary infrastructure for living and recreation.

For families with children and youth: Bilbao, San Sebastian;

for yacht owners: Getxo, Leikeitio, Elanchove;

for gourmets: Bermeno, Bilbao,

San Sebastian, Zarautz, Fuenterrabia;

for surfers: Deba, Mundaka,

San Sebastian, Zarautz;

for golf lovers: Bilbao, Getxo;

for living all year round: Bilbao,

San Sebastian.

Yulia Kozhevnikova, Tranio

Euskadi, or the Basque Country, is one of the places that can safely be classified as one of the most unusual historical regions not only of Spain, but also of Western Europe as a whole. Inhabited in ancient times and having managed to preserve its identity and culture, this region is worthy of close attention. By the way, neither the history of the inhabitants of these lands nor the history of the origin of its language have yet been revealed.

Basque Country - where is it?

The region that this article will focus on is often referred to as Green Spain. Its territory, stretching along the Atlantic coast, is located in the northern part of the country and is separated from the rest of the territory by the Cantabrian Mountains. And it is “green” due to the abundance of forests, a lot of rain and a mild maritime climate.

The Basque Country is an autonomous community that includes three provinces with their own capitals: Alava (Vitoria-Gasteiz), Vizcaya (Bilbao), Gipuzkoa (San Sebastian). Each of the named administrative centers is a city that can charm and make tourists fall in love with it. However, the ancient settlements scattered in the valleys between the mountains, and the stunning landscapes with mountains covered with greenery, and the blue of the ocean will also not allow you to forget the original region, forcing you to come here again and again.

The Mystery of the Basque Language

In northeastern Spain, where the Basque Country is located, bilingualism reigns. By the way, the second language indigenous to this area, Basque (Euskara or Euskera), has nothing in common with Spanish.

Some scientists are inclined to believe that he came here from Georgia. In its structure, ancient word forms were found that belong to the group of Caucasian languages, as well as to Iberian and Aquitanian dialects, which would seem to confirm this conclusion. But many terms and names that have no analogues in any known language on Earth still do not allow us to put an end to the study of the history of the origin of this dialect.

Bilbao is the best city in the world

Basques value the new and respect the old. And this can be confirmed by the amazing history of the capital of the province of Vizcaya, the city of Bilbao, founded in the 14th century. Back in 1980, it frightened tourists with its neglect and dirt: a closed port, shutdown factories, a catastrophically polluted river... But the new mayor performed a miracle, and in 10 years the city became beautiful, convenient for both residents and guests, from of which there is no end here now.

The Basque Country, whose attractions can be listed for a long time, has been enriched with new stunning art objects. And this was facilitated by the decision of the city authorities to invite the best European architects for construction.

Thus, the original entrances to the Bilbao metro are called “fosterite” in honor of the famous English architect Norman Foster (by the way, you can take the metro here all the way to the ocean). And in the very center of the city, on the site of abandoned wine warehouses, Philippe Starck designed a cultural and sports center, which is included in all textbooks on architecture. The building of the Mariot Hotel is a masterpiece of the Mexican Ricardo Legfetta, and designed by F. Sorano and D. Palacios, it is recognized as the best parliamentary building in the world. No wonder that in 2010 Bilbao received the title of the best city in the world and the World City Award!

San Sebastian

80 km from Bilbao is another large city of the Basque country and the capital of the province - San Sebastian, which is home to about 200 thousand people. The road between the settlements is amazing - it stretches along the ocean shore, opening up a beautiful panorama of the ancient region. And San Sebastian itself looks like a shining shell located on the shores of La Concha Bay.

By the way, it is considered one of the most beautiful and expensive cities in Spain. 100 years ago it became the summer residence of the kings, which naturally pushed its development, and now San Sebastian is another capital, the administrative center of the province of Guipuzcoa. The city shines with cleanliness and pomp. And since 1953, the famous film festival has been held here annually in September. In July, jazz lovers come here from all over the world.

Vitoria-Gasteiz - a city for walking

The capital of the Basque Country, Vitoria-Gasteiz, can safely be called a city where walking is a national sport. And this is not surprising, because there are 30 km of pedestrian streets, 100 thousand trees and 45 m² of green space for each resident. Such conditions have led to Vitoria becoming a city with the highest quality of life.

On sunny days, locals waste no time - they fill the narrow cobbled streets, strolling between the many shops, or visit the small, delicious-smelling pastry shops. After all, where there is coolness, everyone loves sweets very much, and this is an immutable law!

The city administration has provided more than 4 million bicycles for use by its residents to replace cars. For this purpose, in Vitoria there are special parking lots where you can take a two-wheeled vehicle and then leave it after a long period of use.

A ring of parks was created along the entire perimeter of the city, and thanks to this, settlements of nutria, deer and wild cats appeared just 4 km from the city center.

Sights of Vitoria-Gasteiz

In 1181, Sancho VII of Navarre awarded the settlement of Vitoria the title of city. Its medieval layout has since undergone some changes, but, nevertheless, has survived to this day almost untouched. New buildings appeared in place of old buildings, but the street markings remained the same.

The oldest building in the city is the Utrada de Anda tower, built in the 13th century. In addition, the city has four beautiful Gothic cathedrals: St. Mary's, built in the 12th century, the Church of the Apostle Peter (14th century), as well as San Vincento and San Miguel (14th century), where the patroness of the city Belaya found shelter Mother of God.

Once in the capital of the entire Basque Country, one cannot help but visit the Artium Museum of Contemporary Art, museums of natural history, archeology, Alava weapons and sacred art. By the way, there is even a museum of playing cards in the city, since this is where their production is established.

There is also a lot of interesting things to do around the capital

The beauty of the suburb also plays a very important role in the special charm of Vitoria. After all, almost every quiet and cozy village around the capital has its own historical monument. It could be an ancient stone mansion, decorated with a proud family coat of arms, or a colorful church. Thus, in the village of Mendoza you can visit the very interesting Museum of Heraldry, and in Salvatierra the attention of tourists will definitely be attracted by the Church of Santa Maria and the ancient fortress.

The Basque Country is rightfully proud of its wine-making traditions. Therefore, having been here, you cannot help but visit the Rioja Alavesa region, famous for its vineyards. It is especially interesting here in September, during the colorful Harvest Festival, which brings together not only local residents, but also numerous tourists.

How to relax in the Basque Country: reviews from tourists

People in Euskadi love holidays, and that’s probably why there are a lot of them there. Holiday fairs, carnival processions, shepherd dog competitions, bull races, tomato fights - these are just a small part of what can be seen in this seemingly measured and calm region.

People come to the Basque Country for the holidays from all over Spain and other European countries, because, perhaps, only here you can see so much fun, endless joy of life and confidence that everything around is beautiful. The Basques know how to have fun like no one else, devoting themselves to it with all their hearts, and those who have attended the city festival at least once strive to come here again.

Where to visit when visiting the Basque Country

When planning to go to Euskadi, be sure to plan your route, since there are a lot of places in this region that simply cannot be missed without deigning your attention. Bilbao is one of them, but the Basque Country is able to offer other unique objects:

• the chapel of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, located on a high cliff near Bilbao;
• the majestic Cathedral in San Sebastian, like two peas in a pod, similar to the famous one;
• the longest labyrinth underground, in the vicinity of Oñati;
• improbable winery Marcus de Richa, erected

Don’t forget to ride a bike through the quiet streets of medieval Vitoria, feast on octopus in one of the cozy restaurants of Getaria, taste the best wines in Laguardia, test yourself in surfing in Mundaka, discover a huge number of secluded wild beaches on the Costa Basque and understand what this region has become for to your loved ones and acquaintances. Have a great holiday in the Basque Country!

The Basque Country, like other northern regions of Spain, is often called “unusual Spain”. Despite the fact that I don’t really like such definitions, to some extent this is true. The uniqueness of the people inhabiting these lands, an unusual and absolutely incomprehensible language, mountains covered with green forests, the cold and harsh Bay of Biscay, a surprisingly harmonious neighborhood of antiquity and modernity, large beautiful cities and small neat villages, delicious wine and exquisite cuisine. We saw all this in the Basque Country. The nature here is different, the culture is different, but still this beautiful region is part of Spain.

When my husband and I first decided to go to the Basque Country, and this was only a few years ago, we were faced with very general and often unreliable information about this region of Spain in Russian-language sources. Our knowledge was limited only to the Guggenheim Museum, Basque separatism and the tragedy in Guernica. Now, after several trips to these fabulous places, we can confidently say that this is one of the best tourist destinations in Spain.

How to get there

The path to the Basque Country, located in northwestern Spain, is not short. The distance from Moscow to Bilbao is 3,700 km, so the fastest and cheapest way is air travel. Is there an alternative? Judge for yourself.

By plane

So, let's go to the Basque Country by plane. There are no direct flights either to Bilbao or from Russia, but it is quite easy to find convenient flights with one connection. An alternative to such a flight would be a combination of flying to Spain and traveling to the Basque Country by train. This option will especially appeal to those who don’t really like unnecessary takeoffs and landings.

By plane from Moscow to the Basque Country

• Bilbao. A fairly large number of daily Lufthansa flights to both Moscow and Bilbao makes it possible to combine a convenient flight. In most cases, transfers are made at Frankfurt airport, less often in Munich. This way you can reach Bilbao in just 5-6 hours. In addition to the German airline, connecting flights are operated by Brussels Airlines with a transfer, respectively, in Brussels. The cost of a round-trip flight is from 230 EUR without luggage. By the way, about luggage. Despite the fact that you will fly to Spain from the European Union and go through passport control upon transfer, your luggage is considered to have “arrived from abroad”. And in Bilbao there is a separate room and a separate belt for such luggage. Having encountered this for the first time, we were about to go write a missing persons report when we saw our lonely suitcases in the next room.
• San Sebastian. Flights to this city from Moscow are much less convenient and also cost more. Transportation is carried out mainly by Spanish companies Vueling, Iberia and Valencian Air Nordstrum. There are connections in Madrid with Aeroflot flights, the most comfortable, in my opinion. You can get to San Sebastian in at least eight hours, but these are night flights and transfers. During the day - about 15 hours. The cost of a round-trip ticket is 370-390 EUR.

By plane and train from Moscow to the Basque Country

• Flights from Moscow to Barcelona operate daily, travel time is 4.5 hours. The cost of a round-trip ticket is 200-250EUR. If you are going to continue your journey by train, you can choose between transfer cities based on the cost and convenience of flights for your dates. This is explained by the fact that travel time and the cost of a train ticket to any city in the Basque Country are almost the same.
• From both Madrid and Barcelona you can reach Bilbao, San Sebastian or Vitoria by train in just over 5 hours on average. The cost of a promotional ticket starts from only 21 EUR.

By plane from St. Petersburg to the Basque Country

• Bilbao. Connecting flights from St. Petersburg, as well as from Moscow, are operated by Lufthansa. The flight with a connection in Frankfurt will take about 8 hours, a round-trip ticket will cost about 250 EUR.
• San Sebastian. The cost of the flight is almost the same as from Moscow - about 390 EUR, but the trip is possible with only two transfers. This is quite long and, of course, inconvenient.
• There are no direct flights from St. Petersburg either to or to Barcelona, ​​so the option of traveling by train from these cities loses its attractiveness. The easiest way to fly is to Bilbao. And if Bilbao is not your final destination, go from there to your vacation spot. The most convenient way to get to the suburbs is by metro; the La Union bus company will take you to Vitoria, and Pesa or Alsa to San Sebastian. I don’t recommend traveling by rail - it’s very long, there are no high-speed trains yet.

By train

Train? Not the best way to travel such a long distance. You can get from Moscow to Moscow in 38 hours; a coupe will cost about 18,000RUB (290 EUR). From Paris to the French town on the border with Spain, Ondayi, the journey will take about 6 hours and cost at least 60 EUR. That's it, you have already reached the Basque Country. True, the French part of it. Another half hour on the regional train, Euskotren, and you are in San Sebastian. However, there is no direct flight to Bilbao. In total, a one-way train trip will take about 2 days and cost about 360 EUR. A little expensive for such adventures, in my opinion.

By car

Traveling in your own car is, of course, possible. Only it will take 4-5 days for such a trip across Europe. Therefore, it can hardly be considered as a way to move from point A to point B. But as a separate trip, it’s quite possible; however, such a trip will take much longer. The same can be said about traveling by bus. This option is possible, but it will take a lot of time, you will have to make countless transfers, and the resulting cost will be high.

By ferry

By sea. By the ocean. Regular flight connections to Bilbao are only with English Portsmouth, which somehow doesn’t really suit us. So you can only get to the Basque Country by sea on a cruise ship; such ships call at Bilbao.

Clue:

Basque Country - the time is now

Hour difference:

Moscow 2

Kazan 2

Samara 3

Ekaterinburg 4

Novosibirsk 6

Vladivostok 9

When is the season? When is the best time to go

When to travel to the Basque Country? Many people recklessly think that since this is a region of Spain, the southernmost European country, it is always warm here. Just think, the north, this is the Spanish north. Not certainly in that way. Very often in the fall, and especially in the spring, the local weather can be much colder than in our middle zone. Or maybe not. So, when preparing for a trip to the Basque Country, you need to be prepared for frequent rains, even in summer, and sudden changes in the weather.

And the high season here, of course, is summer. With corresponding prices, of course. Let's take a closer look at all the seasons.

Basque Country in summer

Real summer begins in the Basque Country towards the end of June, but June itself is not very stable. Night temperatures in June are still low, and there is often fog in the mornings. If it doesn't rain. And it rains often. Not surprisingly, the Basque language has many words for different types of rain. One of them: sirimiri - light rain with tiny droplets, almost like a suspension of water in the air, a very common occurrence. In July, the air temperature confidently crosses the mark of 25 degrees, but rarely rises above thirty.

In August the situation remains almost unchanged. It rains only a little less frequently than at the beginning of summer. The water temperature in the Bay of Biscay in July warms up to 20-22 degrees, in August it can be even higher. So on sunny days it is quite possible to swim. Housing prices reach their peak in August; the best options for this month are sold out almost a year in advance. There are, of course, a lot of tourists, but they cannot be compared with the crowds in the most popular Spanish cities. But the main beaches are very crowded in good weather.

Basque Country in autumn

Autumn can be divided into two or even three seasons. September is practically summer, with wonderful weather, with ocean water temperatures remaining almost at August levels, and with the absence of critical air temperatures. In addition, prices are slightly lower than in August, and there are slightly fewer tourists. In October, the weather begins to deteriorate a little, but the mountain slopes and vineyards are painted in fantastically beautiful colors.

Housing prices by this time are already practically minimal. November is the rainiest month in one of the rainiest regions in Spain. Of course, you can always find something to do, but I won’t recommend a trip in November.

By the way, if you choose between November and, for example, January or February, choose the winter months, they are drier.

Basque Country in spring

Spring continues to rain heavily, even in May there are half of the rainy days here. But in spring the gardens bloom, the meadows are covered with flower carpets, and the air is filled with aroma.

In my opinion, spring is a good time to travel, you just need to dress correctly. In addition, unlike the southern regions, it is not difficult to find housing with heating that will work as long as needed. Even in June (by Spanish standards this is spring) we were pleasantly surprised by the working heating in all our overnight accommodations. Of course, such amenities are not available everywhere; you need to check when booking. Housing prices in the spring, except for Easter week, are very low, and there are few tourists.

Basque Country in winter

Many will say that there is nothing to do in the Basque Country in winter. Constant rain, sometimes snow can fall. Rains are not so bad; the situation is worsened by strong winds, especially on the coast. I agree that the weather is not very touristy. But there are also clear days. Moreover, it is in winter that the Bay of Biscay remembers that it is part of the ocean, and shows itself in all its glory and with all its power. You're unlikely to see this in the summer.

What else is good about winter? Of course, minimum housing prices. I know that many tourists do not even book hotels in advance, staying where they liked best. I would also like to note that the Basque Country, although small, consists of two climatic zones. Humid Atlantic weather is typical for the coast, while in the mountainous regions of the province of Alava the climate is continental and precipitation is much less frequent. True, in winter it is much colder here than on the coast, the temperature often drops below zero, and there is snow.

Clue:

Basque Country - weather by month

What are the prices for holidays?

The Basque Country is not exactly a budget region; the average cost of housing here is quite high, especially in high season. Sitting in a restaurant or cafe will also be more expensive than the Spanish average. But I should note that high prices in the region correspond to high quality. But in stores the prices are the same as everywhere else. The same applies to public transport.

• The price of a double room in season is from 50EUR (in San Sebastian - from 100EUR);
• The price of a bed in a hostel is from 20EUR (in San Sebastian - from 40EUR);
• The cost of dinner for two is from 50EUR to...
• Lunch set menu (menu del dia) - 13-15EUR (sometimes above 20);
• Bus fares between major cities start from 7 EUR;
• Taxi - 2EUR/km during the day, 3EUR/km at night;
• One trip on public transport - 1.5EUR;
• A glass of wine/beer and pintxo - 3-6EUR on average (according to the “special offer” pintxo-pote from 1EUR);
• Ticket to the museum - 3-7EUR.

Main attractions. What to see

This is not the first time the question about the main attractions of the Basque Country has made me think. Everything is beautiful and interesting in this region: cities with their incredible and harmonious interweaving of all possible eras, small pueblos towns, so similar in their hospitality and so different, churches whose walls preserve the memory of many centuries, beaches and rocks, hills and vineyards. .. At the same time, there are no super-top world attractions here, except perhaps the Guggenheim Museum. Therefore, in my top list there will be places that I still managed to highlight, being a little upset and offended for those that were not included in this list.

To visit a certain network of museums at a discount in the Basque Country, there is a discount, which can be obtained absolutely free of charge at the tourist office or at one of the museums. Your first visit to the museum will activate your card. Please note that the Guggenheim Museum is not included in this list.

Top 5

Traveling in a gondola, which is essentially public transport, will cost only 0.4 EUR; for a car you will need to pay 1.6 EUR. Climbing to the top of the bridge and walking along it is a tourist attraction; such a ticket costs 8EUR, with a museum card - 6.3EUR.

Beaches. Which ones are better

The beaches of the Basque Country are beautiful despite the fact that they very rarely please swimmers, but often surfers. Here you can find a wide variety of beaches: from wild and secluded to fully equipped urban ones. All are good, but here is my list of the best.

• One of the most beautiful city beaches not only in the Basque Country, but throughout Spain, is La Concha beach, located in San Sebastian. Its name comes from its shape - a shell; in the center of the bay is the island of Santa Clara, and on both sides the beach is framed by the mountains Igueldo and Urgul. The water in the Bay of Biscay is quite cool, and in the shallow La Concha Bay it warms up better, which adds to the popularity of the beach. Almost all possible services are available on the beach: showers, rental of sun loungers and umbrellas, toilets, lifeguards, canoe rental and children's slides and trampolines.

The embankment fencing is made in the form of a white figured lattice, which, in combination with lanterns, is an excellent frame for the blue waters of the bay.

• Zarouts Beach(Zarautz) is the largest beach in the province of Guipuzcoa, its length is 2500m. There is room for everyone here - the beach is divided into three zones. The western part is reserved for swimming; families with children come here to spend the day. The central part belongs to the surfers. In the eastern part there are dunes where you can take pleasant walks. Sarauts has a pleasant embankment, decorated with sculptures, and children's playgrounds.

• Playa de Laida located in the Urdaibai nature reserve. The length of this beach with fine golden sand is about a kilometer, but every month its area changes depending on the ebb and flow of the constantly drifting Urdaibai estuary. The best time to visit this beach is at low tide, when you can see the beautiful contrast of green meadows with fine golden sand that covers the shores. Mainly, of course, this beach is suitable for water sports, especially for surfers. But in the absence of waves, it is quite possible to swim here with children. The beach is equipped with changing rooms and toilets, and there is a cafe. There is a popular campsite nearby.

• Beaches of the village of Barrika are just 3 km from Plencia metro station. Secluded chamber Muriola.

And no less cute Barrica, which nudists love.

Both beaches are wild; to get to them you need to go down the stairs. The third, Meñakoz, is completely open to the sea and is popular with surfers.

• The beaches of Arrietara and Atxabiribil in Sopelan can also be reached by metro from Bilbao. At low tide, the water moves away from the rocks separating these two beaches, and they become one. There are often good waves here, so there are a lot of surfers. On calm days the beach is also good for swimming. The beach is equipped and there is ample parking nearby.

Churches and temples. Which ones are worth visiting?

The Basque Country will be of great interest to architecture lovers. You can visit churches of the Romanesque period, Gothic, temples of later periods, including modern ones. I will highlight the most significant ones.

• Cathedral of Santa Maria de Vitoria or Old Cathedral of Vitoria Gasteiz was erected in the 12th century at the very top of the hill that rose in the center of the city. The cathedral has been rebuilt many times and is currently undergoing restoration work. However, the cathedral is open to visitors with an organized tour. This is a unique opportunity to experience the mystery of the restoration of an ancient Gothic temple.

• Bilbao Cathedral, named after the official patron of the city, the Apostle James, was built at the end of the fourteenth century in the Gothic style. Throughout its life, the cathedral was rebuilt and restored; its facade and tower, which we see today, are made in the neo-Gothic style. The last major restoration was in 2000. Particularly noteworthy are the cathedral's cloister, La Puerta del Angel (also known as the Pilgrims' Gate) and the tower.

• Basilica of Begoña in Bilbao, located in the Santutxu district of Bilbao, is one of the most famous temples in Vizcaya. On the night of August 15, many people come here to worship Begoña, who is the patroness of Vizcaya. Sailors also consider her their patroness, because since the 16th century, when the modern church building was erected, the first thing they see is the church spire. The basilica is located on a high hill and offers a beautiful view of the city.

• Buen Pastor Cathedral in San Sebastian was built at the end of the 19th century. The three symmetrical naves of the cathedral form the shape of a Latin cross. The cathedral was built in the neo-Gothic style and is crowned by a 75-meter bell tower. A special pride of the temple is the organ; it was installed in 1954 and at that time was the largest in Europe.

Museums. Which ones are worth visiting?

When talking about the museums of the Basque Country, I will not dwell on the Guggenheim Museum, you already know about it, don’t you? There are quite a lot of interesting museums in the region, I’ll tell you about some of them.

• Bilbao Museum of Fine Arts was the most visited museum in the Basque Country until the Guggenheim Museum opened. The museum displays more than 8,000 works by Basque artists, the earliest paintings dating back to the 12th century.

• Basque Museum located in the center of Bilbao. The most interesting exhibition of the museum tells about the history, culture and traditions of the Basque people. The collection began in 1917-1920, these were private donations, and currently the museum displays about 20,000 exhibits.

• 30 km from Bilbao, in the restored medieval tower of Tore Loizaga, you can see the largest and only one in Europe private collection of Rolls Royces. The museum displays 75 cars, 45 of which are Rolls Royces. This is impressive. Since the museum is private, please pay attention to the visiting hours: it is only open on Sundays and public holidays from 10.00 to 15.00.

• Aquarium in San Sebastian- the oldest natural science museum in Spain. It was opened in 1928, and in 1998 a swimming pool and an underwater tunnel were built. The museum is divided into three zones: a tunnel with a 360-degree view, themed aquariums and an area where young researchers can touch the inhabitants of the seabed.

• Great couturier Cristobal Balenciaga born in a small town on the Atlantic coast. In 2011, a museum was opened in this town, Getaria. It was housed in the Aldamar Palace, which belonged to the family that once supported the young Balenciaga. The opening was attended by Queen Sofia, Hubert Givenchy and many Spanish designers. There were many scandals associated with the construction of the museum, however, it works and is open to the public. The museum displays about 1,200 items of clothing and accessories designed by the designer. Interesting? Visit, especially since the town itself is very attractive.

Parks

The Basque Country cannot boast of high mountains or open ocean, but the nature here is unusually good. It evokes great respect for the way such wealth has been treated here in recent years. The region has many protected areas, and great efforts are being made to preserve and restore the natural environment. I will note those parks that are especially interesting.

• A real gem among the natural parks of the Basque Country is the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, located along the Oka River. Urdaibai is a variety of ecosystems and landscapes, hills, forests, swamps, the Atlantic coast, as well as authentic towns and historical monuments. These places are so good that you can spend a whole vacation here, getting a lot of different impressions from the sea, landscapes, gastronomy, and walks through historical places. There are many walking and cycling routes here. And if you collect Game of Thrones filming locations, here's another one for your collection.

• The highest waterfall in Spain, Salto del Nervión, is located in the province of Alava. The location of the waterfall on the border of the provinces of Burgos and Alava is the cause of some disagreements between the inhabitants of these regions. The waterfall is unusually beautiful, but, unfortunately, it is very rarely a waterfall. Even in winter there is a chance that there will be no water. A visit is recommended in early spring and preferably after heavy rains. I would like to note that this mountainous region will appeal to lovers of natural beauty, even if the waterfall doesn’t work out.

• The Valdejero Natural Park does not occupy a very large area, but will certainly appeal to lovers of hiking routes. The most impressive one is along the Puron River gorge.

• In the Lagunas de Lagardia Biosphere Reserve, a huge variety of birds can be observed between September and March. The vineyards of Rioja Alavesa, painted in autumn colors, complete the picture.

• In the province of Guipuzcoa, the most interesting, in my opinion, is the Aiscori-Arats Natural Park. This is the highest mountain park in the Basque Country, if you can call the mountains that way, with the highest point being one and a half thousand meters.

But the beauty of a landscape is not always determined by height. One of the most interesting routes in the park starts from the Otzaurte gate, leading to the San Adrian Tunnel. The route follows a medieval road that was built on the site of an ancient Roman one leading to Astorga. A tunnel of natural origin, in the 19th century a chapel was erected in it.

The peak of Mount Aiskori is popular among climbers.

Neighboring regions

While in the Spanish Basque Country, many travelers also visit its French part, because the distances are very short and there are many interesting places.

Biarritz

Biarritz, a fashionable French resort, attracts Russian travelers primarily for its connection with Russian history. Alexander Blok, Maximilian Voloshin, Sergei Diaghilev, Anton Chekhov lived here. Little Nabokov was brought to this resort, popular among the Russian aristocracy. Fyodor Chaliapin had a villa here. The modern Russian writer Vasily Aksenov also had a house in Biarritz. The Russian quarter is still preserved here, and the “Russian seasons” are an integral part of the city’s history. The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, built with funds from Empress Maria Feodorovna and Russian patrons, is simply called the “Russian Church” in the city. The dominant feature of the city is the Hotel du Palais, a luxurious nineteenth-century palace built as the residence of Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III. Walking along Grand Beach, you can simultaneously enjoy views of the ocean and many of the city's attractions. This is the famous Municipal Casino, the Church of Saint-Eugene, the atmospheric port of Pesce, a cliff with a statue of the Virgin Mary, to which an Eiffel overpass leads.

Bayonne

The capital of the French Basque Country, Bayonne, is located in close proximity to Biarritz, and there is a city bus service there. If Biarritz is an aristocratic resort, then Bayonne is a residential city, which, however, has its own charm and flavor. In the narrow streets you can find ancient fortifications, and medieval buildings have been preserved. The elegant Cathedral of St. Mary is interesting; its construction began in the 13th century and was completed until the 19th century. But many tourists, and especially female tourists, are attracted to Bayonne by chocolate. Chocolate production dates back to the 17th century; secrets and mysteries were brought here by Jews fleeing Portugal. This region is also famous for its hot red pepper; sometimes these products, chocolate and pepper are combined.

Particular attention is paid to pepper in the village of Espelette.

Saint-Jean-de-Luce

The town of Saint-Jean-de-Luce went down in history in 1660, thanks to the wedding of the French King Louis XIV and the Spanish Princess Maria Theresa. The church where they got married and the palaces of the newlyweds, overlooking the picturesque fishing port, have been preserved here. I was especially impressed by the Infanta House; in the light mist of rain-sirimiri, it was as if shrouded in an airy pink haze. The town itself is pretty, the red and white half-timbered buildings typical of the Basque Country add cheerfulness even in the rain. What was also surprising compared to Spain was that on Sunday afternoon almost all the shops and shops in the city were open. And this is out of season. But there were so many people on the streets that it seemed to me that the season in these parts is a very relative concept.

Food. What to try

The cuisine of the Basque Country, perhaps, should be included in the top list of its attractions. When I first arrived in the Basque Country, I realized that those who call these places a gastronomic paradise are not at all mistaken. Indeed, the level of local restaurants is very high, and even in the simplest village tavern you will be fed incredibly tasty homemade food. San Sebastian has 9 restaurants that have been awarded Michelin stars, all the others also maintain this high bar.

Here, gastronomy is an art that is taught in the family, various competitions are held, families unite in communities to cook together, and the University of San Sebastian has a gastronomy department.

The first thing that pleasantly surprises a traveler is the huge number of bars that serve an incredible variety of pintxos. Once upon a time, this was the name for a simple slice of baguette with any food, held together by a cocktail stick - pintxo. The traditional ingredients were olives, peppers, and anchovies. Today it is simply not possible to talk about any specific recipes; all the goodies that are available in this region are used. And that's more than enough. Fish, seafood, mushrooms, vegetables, herbs, pickles, smoked foods, all kinds of cheeses... The combinations are very tasty, sometimes unexpected.

While walking around Basque cities and certainly going to bars, trying more and more new pintxos, try to still leave room for a “real” lunch. Indeed, in addition to these small masterpieces, local cuisine will give you many more pleasures. If you want to get acquainted with the local cuisine, I recommend trying typical Basque dishes:

It would be strange to talk about local cuisine and not mention drinks. As elsewhere in northern Spain, one of the most popular drinks here is cider. It is made from fermented apple juice without added sugar and carbon dioxide, the alcohol content is about 4.5 degrees. The main cider production is located in the northeast of the province of Guipuzcoa. The cider season is from the second week of January to April and is available in bottles all year round.

The coastal towns of Zarouts and Getaria grow grapes and produce Txakoli, a young white wine with pleasant fruity notes. It goes perfectly with local fish and seafood dishes. Winemaking in Getaria dates back more than five centuries.

We, like many tourists, love to get acquainted with local products not only in restaurants, but also by preparing something ourselves. When buying food, especially at the market, you plunge into the life of local residents entirely. I’ll tell you about the most famous and largest Basque markets.

• The Ribera market in Bilbao is the largest indoor market in Europe, and was included in the Guinness Book of Records in 1990. It is located in Casco Viejo on the site where there has been a market square since the fourteenth century. The modern Art Deco building was built in the twenties and was reconstructed in 2010, changing color but not shape.
• The San Martin market in San Sebastian is not so famous and old, it was opened at the end of the 19th century, and the modern building was built in 2005. This does not make the range and quality of products any worse.
• Vitoria's largest market is located in Plaza Abastos, and on Thursdays and Saturdays there is an open-air market in Plaza de Mercado.

These are the markets that you will find in major cities. And the markets of Guernica, Villafranca de Ordisia and Tolosa are considered the best and most famous in the Basque Country.

In all large and small cities you can find chain supermarkets: Eroski, this is a Basque chain, which means “place to shop”, Carrefour, Lidl, Dia, BM Urban. In addition to chain stores, there are many small shops; for example, I recommend buying fruits and vegetables there.

Holidays

Tamborrada in San Sebastian

Tamborrada, the annual festival in San Sebastian, undoubtedly deserves the title of Spain's biggest festival. Exactly at midnight on January 19, this is St. Sebastian's Day, drumming begins on Constitution Square. The most important holiday of the residents of San Sebastian is held in any weather, even rain or snow. Tradition takes us back to the war with Napoleon; during the occupation of San Sebastian, French soldiers walked through the streets of the city to the beat of drums. Basque women fetching water taunted the soldiers by banging their barrels. A large share of the celebration's participation comes from the culinary communities of the townspeople, which is why many drummers wear chef's uniforms. Also popular at the festival are traditional Basque women's costumes and military uniforms from the early 19th century.

On the morning of January 20th, a children's parade is held with various competitions, where the general and the beauty of Easo (San Sebastian) are chosen. On the same day, the mayor of the city awards distinguished citizens. Throughout the day, costumed processions continue with the beating of drums, and at midnight everything ends in the same place where it began.

Virgen Blanco in Vitoria Gasteiz

From 4 to 9 August, festivities in honor of Virgen Blanco are held in the capital of the Basque Country, Vitoria. It must be said that the history of this festival is not that long; it was first held in 1957. The celebration begins at the Plaza de la Virgen Blanco, where thousands of people gather to see Celedon, a sort of Mary Poppins in male form, descend on his umbrella. In fact, the main character of the event symbolizes the local peasant and he is dressed in clothing typical of the region.

During the holiday, many concerts, bullfights and various entertainment events are held. Many townspeople dress in clothes of a certain color, and many participants also wear national costumes. The holiday ends with a farewell to Celedon and fireworks.

La Semana Grande in Bilbao

Big Week (La Semana Grande Bilbaina or Aste Nagusia in Euskera) is a holiday of great importance to the Basques, its tradition was revived after the death of Franco. The organization of this event is carried out by a special commission, which also became possible only after the end of the dictatorship. The dates of the festival depend on the church calendar; in 2017, for example, it will be held from August 19 to 27.

The holiday begins with the ceremonial launch of the txupinaso rocket and the announcement of the beginning of the holiday. And launching a rocket and proclaiming the beginning is a responsible matter, and for this, every year, eminent citizens are chosen who put on special costumes. There are a huge variety of carnival bands performing throughout the city throughout the week. One of the main characters is Gargantua, who eats children - a stylized slide. There must be a bullfight. The arena in Bilbao has a first category and stands out for its black volcanic sand.

The holiday ends with the ceremonial burning of the Marijaia doll.

La Semana Grande in San Sebastian

Big Week is also held on the same days in San Sebastian. Its central event is the international fireworks competition. Every year the sky over La Concha Bay is decorated with an incredible spectacle. Bars, restaurants, hotels overlooking the beach - everything is crowded. It's hard to even just find a place to enjoy the spectacle.

In addition to the festival, the city hosts many other events. These include the inevitable processions of large dolls, concerts of modern, classical and jazz music, horse racing, rowing competitions, a beach volleyball tournament and much more.

Needless to say that during the festival the city’s population increases several times?

Safety. What to watch out for

The Basque Country is a very hospitable and calm region of Spain. It is difficult to imagine any dangers that await tourists here. To be honest, we haven’t even met the traditional signature collectors for tourist cities in recent years. These are, you know, the kind of guys who offer to vote for the protection of whales in Alaska, and at the same time throw in a little money. There is no need to sign anything; save your active citizenship for your home country. But you still shouldn’t neglect the usual safety rules, that is, you shouldn’t leave anything visible in the car, and don’t leave money and valuables outside the hotel safe.

But what you really should beware of is excessive overeating due to the fact that it is simply impossible to stop.

And, of course, you shouldn’t joke with the ocean by challenging it. This is truly life-threatening.

Things to do

• Go out into the open ocean in pursuit of whales. You can also see dolphins and many seabirds. Such trips are organized from the ports of Santurzi and Bermeo, last 8-9 hours, and take place from July to October.

• Go on a trip to pintxos bars.

• Or go on a real hike along the coast or in the mountains. There are a lot of routes. You can do this by bike; the number of rental offices will pleasantly surprise you.

• Catch a wave at Mundaka Beach. This is, of course, for the young and fearless.

• Be sure to attend one of the countless local festivals, have fun and eat food with the Basques.

• Bungee jumping from a bridge or from a cliff into the ocean; many such activities are offered in the Basque Country, including for beginners.

• The most important and best thing to do is look at the ocean, breathe the ocean, listen to the ocean, see off the setting sun and dream about the day when you return here.

Extreme Sports

The Basque Country has a long tradition of surfing and all the conditions for practicing this sport. Along the entire coast you can find surfing spots and surf spots. There are many surf camps in the region where you can learn this difficult and dangerous craft.

• One of the most famous and popular is Surfcamp Zarautz, located just a five-minute walk from the beach of the same name. It is open year-round and offers surf lessons for all levels. There are also many interesting events and excursions organized here.

• Moana Surf Hostel on Arrietara-Atxabiribil beach, Sopelana. Moana Surf Hostel is located in a picturesque area and in close proximity to some of the best surf beaches on the Basque coast: Sopelana, Barrika, Bakio, Getxo, Mundaka...

• Situated in the beautiful dunes of Laga Beach at the mouth of the Urdaibaya River and next to Mount Ogoño, Laga Surf Camp is perhaps the best on the Basque coast. After all, here you can find the best waves for all levels. In addition, Mundaka beach, with the best left wave in Europe, is only 5 minutes away.

Souvenirs. What to bring as a gift

Lately, gastronomic souvenirs have become very popular. To be honest, I like them myself. I see the joy such souvenirs bring to my friends, and I myself wouldn’t mind receiving something tasty as a gift. Of course, the Basque Country is part of Spain, and such traditional gifts as olive oil and jamon are also brought from here. If you want to please your loved ones with something special, I advise you to pay attention to Idiazabal sheep cheese, nominated by origin. It is produced in 150 villages in the Basque Country and Navarre.

Typical alcoholic souvenirs of the Basque Country include Txakoli wine, cider, pacharan and Rioja Alavesa wines.

Many of us want to bring something that will last a little longer than delicious souvenirs. Typical souvenirs of the Basque Country will be national berets, wine flasks (botas de vino), the covers of which are made of natural materials and are quite expensive.

Also ceramic figurines, national dolls, possibly silver jewelry. Of course, everyone’s favorite magnets, souvenir plates, ashtrays and much more are presented here in a large assortment.

Shopping and shops

Shopping in the Basque Country is as good as in other regions of Spain. There are large shopping malls and small cute shops here.

El Corte Inglés is represented in the Basque Country in two cities: Bilbao and Eibar, a small town located in a picturesque valley on the road from Bilbao to San Sebastian and famous for its football club and the production of weapons. When traveling by car, stopping by is very convenient.

Bars

The Basque Country is the land of pintxos bars. These wonderful establishments are everywhere, but the gastrobars of San Sebastian are considered the best. In every bar, a huge number of cold pintxos are displayed on the counter, making your eyes wide open. They are usually washed down with cider, but, of course, you can also drink wine or beer. Cider is poured into a third of a glass and drunk in one gulp. However, this is not necessary either. They eat and drink here, as it should be in bars - at the bar counter; those who do not have enough space or want to smoke crowd at the doors of the bar.

Many bars have an additional menu posted - usually hot pintxos, which are prepared to order. Good bars will definitely have a lot of people, this is one of the sure signs that are easy to navigate. Going to pintxos bars is not a cheap pleasure, the snacks are small, the assortment is huge, you want to try everything. The cost of one pintxo is 1.5-5EUR.

Basque Country - holidays with children

The Basque Country offers many opportunities for traveling with children. If you don't prioritize the warm sea where you plan to splash around with your little one all day, the region is otherwise excellent for children. Probably the first thing that catches the eye even of those whose children have long grown up is the well-equipped playgrounds, most of them with a soft springy surface.

The most interesting place for children will, of course, be the aquarium in San Sebastian.

Little ones (those who don’t get seasick) love boat rides, for example, in the Urdaibai nature reserve; boat trips are also possible from San Sebastian, Bermeo and other coastal towns. Sailboat excursions are organized from Getxo Old Port.

It is interesting to go down into the caves of Cuevas de Pozalagua.

In San Sebastian, on Mount Igueldo, there is an ancient amusement park.

The bravest parents dare to put their children on the board.

Ski holiday

Conditional areas. Descriptions and features

The Basque Country is small, the distance between its three main cities is about 100 km. This means that, having settled in any place you like, you can make comfortable radial trips within one day. The Basque Country, and we are talking today about official Spanish autonomy, includes three provinces: Gipuzkoa, Vizcaya and Alava.

Each of them is worthy of attention, and it would be more pleasant to stay somewhere on the coast of the Bay of Biscay, or in large cities. This is a matter of personal preference and travel goals, but if you plan to travel frequently by public transport, it is better to stay in a city that has a major transport hub. This is Bilbao or . It will be cheaper to rent a house in Bilbao than in San Sebastian. And in San Sebastian you will live on the shores of the Bay of Biscay. A difficult choice, of course.

Vizcaya

The main city of the province of Vizcaya and the largest city in the Basque Country, Bilbao can offer the curious traveler many interesting places, historical and ultra-modern. These are the Guggenheim Museum, the Subisuri Bridge, Abando Station, the Nervión River embankment, the San Mamés football stadium, the historical part of Casco Viejo and much more. You can read more about Bilbao. In the province itself there are many interesting places that are interesting to visit, and which can be chosen as a base for exploring the region.

• Bilbao's suburbs are easily accessible by metro. Of course, all travelers certainly go to see the incredible “flying” ferry, the Biscay Bridge, in Portugalete.
  
• Getxo is very good - a former fishing village, which at the beginning of the 20th century turned into a fashionable summer residence of the nobility with the light hand of Queen Maria Cristina. Walking along the embankment, it is interesting to look at the beautiful mansions, especially since each of them is equipped with a sign with information.
  A colorful area with many fish restaurants, the Old Port, has been preserved in Getxo.
  
• The final metro station is the resort town of Plencia. There is a huge sandy beach, and the town itself combines everything a seaside resort needs. In addition to impressive beaches, the city has a small historical part and a pleasant promenade along the river of the same name, which flows into the bay of the same name. A very good place to spend your holiday here, especially considering the metro to Bilbao. Distance to the city - 25 km.
  
• Moving further along the coast, you can drop into Armintsa, a small village located in a very beautiful bay. There are a couple of good fish restaurants and a beach here.
  
• Many people might not have gotten to Bakio, which is pretty but simple and entirely made up of modern buildings, if it weren’t for the path to one of the most impressive places in the Basque Country, San Juan de Gaztelugatxe.
  
• San Juan de Gatelugatxe is a 14th-century hermita located on an offshore island. A staircase leads to it from the “mainland,” which has repeatedly been included in various top lists. I advise you to allocate several hours for a trip to this place, excluding the road, even if you plan to go here by car. From the parking lot to the stairs you will still need to go down, and then climb up to the island along a countless number of steps. Not quite and countless: only 237 steps. You will spend about an hour on all the descents and ascents back and forth. The place is incredibly beautiful and impressive. There is a restaurant near the parking lot, and, in my opinion, more than one, so on the way back after the climb you can drink something refreshing or have lunch with a magnificent view of the ocean.
  
• San Juan de Gaztelugatxe can also be reached from Bermeo. This town with a picturesque harbor that looks like it came out of a picture has a long history dating back to the 13th century. For two centuries, the 16th and 17th centuries, Bermeo was the capital of the province of Vizcaya. There are several interesting churches, an 18th-century town hall, Casa Kinkubero - a building in the shape of a ship, and the inevitable fish restaurants. From here you can start the route through the Urdaibai nature reserve.
  
• The world surfing championships were held in the town of Mundaka until 2007, since the waves formed at the mouth of the river are unique. After work in the fairway of the bay, those same unique waves no longer form, and championships are no longer held. But the waves that exist now are still quite good, constant, there are many schools and the place attracts many athletes.
  
• It’s a little strange, but interesting to see a castle in Vizcaya that is very reminiscent of Bavarian ones. This is Butron Castle, its appearance really owes to the passion of its owners. Despite the fact that the fortress has stood here since the eleventh century, today little remains of it. The castle was rebuilt at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries. At one time the castle was open to visitors, but economically this idea turned out to be unprofitable, as a result Butron was sold and is now closed. It is in a very pleasant location, surrounded by a beautiful forest. Residents of Bilbao often come here for picnics, and it is also a favorite place for wedding photo shoots.
  
• Guernica, probably the most sacred city for the Basques, is located in the Urdabai nature reserve. During the civil war, it was almost completely destroyed; this tragedy was immortalized by Pablo Picasso in the painting of the same name. Thanks to him, Guernica is known today throughout the world. Here, under the Guernica Tree, Basque independence was proclaimed in the 14th century. The real tree was planted on the site of the legendary one much later, at the beginning of the eighteenth century. The Guernica Tree and the Casa de Juntas are political symbols of the Basque Country.
  
• Continuing to explore the picturesque coastal villages and towns, we'll stop by Elantxobe, a tiny village on the slope of Mount Ogonyo. When you look at it from above, it seems that the houses with red tiled roofs are hanging over the sea.
  
• Another picturesque town on the coast of Vizcaya is Lequetiyo. It’s a good place to stay in the summer and spend a week or two on the ocean. The town has two good beaches, a beautiful harbor, and a historical center. The main attraction is the Basilica de Asuncion, dating back to the 15th century.
  

Gipuzkoa

The main city of the province of Guipuzcoa is worthy of a separate story, and you can read about it. Our travels around Spain are never limited to the capitals; sometimes it even seems to me that quiet provincial towns are much more interesting to me.

• When I was getting ready for our first trip to the Basque Country, Getaria seemed to me one of the most attractive towns on the coast. The town did not disappoint. We rented a beautiful apartment among the vineyards of Txakoli and enjoyed walks around Getaria every evening. Here, in a small fishing town, Sebastian Elcano was born, who led Magellan’s trip around the world after his death. This city is also the birthplace of the designer Balenciaga, his museum is open here, I mentioned it in the “Museums” section. Pleasant medieval streets lead you to the port, where there are many fish restaurants. People come here specifically because of the excellent local cuisine. We also joined, I recommend it.

• From Getaria to neighboring Zarouts there is a road and a pedestrian road leading along the coast, which offers views that you will remember for a long time. You can return back through the vineyards - it is difficult to choose which road is more picturesque.

• On the border with France is the town of Hondarribia.

The natural border here is the river and two Basque towns, Ondaia and Hondarribia, facing each other. The old medieval town has many interesting places to see. On the hill rises a castle, which now houses a parador hotel. You can already feel the French neighborhood here, but the town itself has its own atmosphere, and its wooden balconies evoke tenderness and a constant desire to take photographs.

• The small town of Tolosa is famous for its ancient trading traditions, because it is advantageously located on the Oria River on the route connecting the coast with the interior. The Saturday market attracts many tourists and locals. The main specialty of the region is local beans - alubias; there is even a festival in their honor. Also, los chuletones (steaks) and cider are not to be missed. Another gastronomic attraction of this place is the Gorrotxategi confectionery, founded in 1680.

• One of the most monumental cities in the province of Guipuzcoa, Onati is located on the road leading from San Sebastian to Vitoria. The old part of the city is very interesting.

The building of the University of the Holy Spirit, built in the 16th century, is one of the best examples of Basque civil architecture of the Renaissance. The facade of the building, the retablo of the monastery in the Plateresque style and the courtyard - the cloister - are noteworthy.

There are also other attractions in the city: the Church of San Miguel, the Vidaurreta Monastery and the beautiful squares of Los Fuerros, de Auntamento and Santa Marina, surrounded by equally beautiful houses.

Nine kilometers from Oñati there is the Aranzazu sanctuary, with which an ancient legend is associated. Scenic hiking routes through the mountains of the Aizcorri-Aratz Natural Park also start from here.

Alava

The province of Alava is landlocked and even the climate here is different from Vizcaya and Guipuzcoa, which is not surprising, since the entire province is located in a mountainous area. The most interesting city in the province is Vitoria, its capital and also the capital of the entire Basque Country, you can read about it here.

Features of mentality

What kind of people are they, the Basques, who speak a strange ancient language, the origin of which scientists continue to argue about?

Of course, a language unlike any other leaves its mark on the character of the Basques. In the rest of Spain, the Basques are spoken of as reserved, even closed people, generally with a stern northern character. There are many humorous contrasts between Basques and Andalusians online. In real life, especially when you come for one or two weeks, the differences are minimal. Nice, pleasant, sociable people.

I would not like to talk about terrorism and ETA, but this issue always comes up when the Basques are mentioned. Today, when ETA has been condemning terrorism for many years in a row, looking at the calm, measured life in the Basque Country, it is difficult to imagine any dangers awaiting tourists here.

Perhaps today we can talk not about nationalism, but about Basque patriotism. This is manifested in everything: in the language spoken by most of the population, in the flags hung on private balconies, in graffiti (the essence of the inscriptions in Euskera, of course, is impossible to understand), in the traditional Basque berets, in the ubiquitous game of pelota, in the reverent attitude towards your history.

How do modern Basques live? What you notice right away is, perhaps, modern architecture. Even the sleeping areas here are interesting. Everywhere there is a huge number of landscaped parks and squares, playgrounds, beautiful embankments.

The Basques pay great attention to sports. First of all, of course, football.

There are many stadiums, sports grounds, bicycle and jogging paths, and there are often outdoor exercise equipment complexes.

The Basques are very socialized, they organize many different communities of interests, hold various events and competitions. A prime example is San Sebastian's gastronomic communities, many of which date back over a hundred years. And in general, it’s like this everywhere in the Basque Country: no matter what hobbies and interests unite people, meetings at a common table with cider are mandatory.