Climbing Elbrus in winter for dummies. New Year's climb to Elbrus. Climbing which mountains in winter

Day 1 - Arrival at the program.

Arrival in Mineralnye Vody. Meeting the group members at the airport in Mineralnye Vody. Transfer to the village of Terskol. To use the group transfer, you need to arrive at Mineralnye Vody airport in the morning before 14:00.

At 14:30 hours - our car leaves with the group members to the village of Terskol at the foot of Elbrus to the hotel. Travel time is 3-4 hours along the mountain road to Mount Elbrus in the Baksan Gorge.

Upon arrival - hotel accommodation in 2, 3 and 4-bed standard hotel rooms in the village of Terskol or in the village of Elbrus.

Welcome dinner in a cafe with national cuisine. Introducing the group to the guide. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 2 - Day of active acclimatization in the Elbrus region.

After breakfast at the hotel, we go out to the high mountain zone for acclimatization. Climb to the “Devichy Kosy” waterfall and the observatory of the Russian Academy of Sciences (3000 meters) or climb Mount Cheget on foot.

Climbing up, we will see the Western and Eastern peaks of Elbrus, as well as the entire ascent route.

After a walk and lunch, your mountain guide will help you sort out the necessary equipment for climbing the mountain. The missing equipment can be rented at the rental point.

Dinner. Overnight at a hotel in the village of Terskol.

Day 3 - Ascent to “Bochki” (3800 meters). Acclimatization trek from the “Bochki” shelter to “Shelter-11” and higher to the beginning of the rock ridge 4400 meters.

Breakfast. Transfer from the hotel to the village of Azau to the lower station of the Elbrus cable car (2500 meters).

Today, the whole group, along with equipment and food, takes a cable car to the Bochki mountain shelter. We move in and get comfortable in our mountain home. There is already a good altitude here - 3800 meters, but for the best result it is important for us to rise as high as possible.

Therefore, after a light lunch and hot tea, we go to the Shelter-11 area (4200 meters) or a little higher to the beginning of the rocky ridge (4300-4400 meters) - according to the group’s well-being.

After exiting, descend to the shelter. Overnight at the shelter.

Day 4 - Ascent to Pastukhov Rocks (4800 meters) and higher to 5000 meters.

After breakfast, we continue acclimatization in the high mountain zone. Climbing the Pastukhov rocks (4800 meters).

Depending on how the group feels, you can climb up to 5000 meters. If necessary, railings are hung above the Pastukhov rocks. Today there will be a training session during which you will be able to practice moving with crampons on snow and ice terrain, “self-restraint” when falling with an ice ax, as well as moving along railings (working with a rope).

Return to the shelter. Overnight at the shelter.

Day 5 - Rest day.

Today is a day of rest and a day of preparation for climbing Elbrus.

Our program with a gradual climb to altitude and a day of rest allows the body to adapt most effectively. And good acclimatization and well-being at altitude are the key to successfully reaching the summit.

Early lights out. Overnight at the shelter.

Day 6 - Climbing to the top of Elbrus (5642 meters).

Today is an interesting and most important day of the program - the day of climbing to the top of Elbrus. Early rise at 2.00. Light breakfast. If the weather is good, start the climb at 3 am. The ascent to the Western peak of Elbrus, depending on the speed of the group, takes from 8 to 10 hours.

You need to be at the top before 13:00. After this time, all group members must begin their descent, no matter where they are at that moment.

The descent from the top takes 5-6 hours. The decision on whether the group will enter the route or descend from it is made by your mountain guide and is mandatory for all group members.

Those who wish can ascend during the night by snowcat from Bochek to the lowest point of the Pastukhov rocks (4600 meters). This saves 3-4 hours of time.

Dinner. Overnight at the shelter.

Day 7 - Descent to Terskol or reserve day for ascent.

In case of bad weather on the previous day, we can use this day as a reserve day for climbing the Elbrus peak. In case of ascent on the previous day, we descend to Terskol for rest.

Breakfast. We collect our backpacks and take the Elbrus cable car down to the foot of the mountain. Transfer from Azau to the village of Terskol.

Accommodation in our hotel in rooms with hot shower. Free time.

You can order a sauna or steam bath, organize a fishing trip, or just take a walk to the Cheget clearing to buy souvenirs.

In the evening, according to tradition, there is a festive dinner in a cafe with national cuisine. Congratulations “Happy Mountain!” and issuing certificates for climbing Elbrus. Overnight at a hotel in Terskol.

Day 8 - Departure home.

Breakfast. Transfer from the village of Terskol to the city of Mineralnye Vody. Departure home.

Tour cost: 40,500 rubles.

THE PRICE OF THE TOUR "Winter ascent to Elbrus from the South" INCLUDES:

  • Group meeting in the city of Mineralnye Vody;
  • Transfer Mineralnye Vody city - Terskol village and back;
  • Transfer village Terskol - st. Azau and back;
  • Hotel accommodation in 2, 3 and 4-bed rooms in the village of Terskol or the village of Elbrus - three days;
  • Three breakfasts at the hotel;
  • Accommodation in the high-mountain shelter "Gara-Bashi" ("Barrels") or another equivalent shelter on Mount Elbrus - 4 days;
  • Food while staying at a mountain shelter on Elbrus;
  • Cook services, preparation by the cook of a full 3 meals a day during your stay at the shelter;
  • Rent of group special equipment to ensure safety on the route (ropes for lashings, for handrails, carabiners, ice screws);
  • Rental of kitchen equipment (gas burners, cylinders, dishes);
  • Accompanying the group with a mountain guide throughout the entire program (the price includes one ascent attempt): 1 guide for a group of 3-4 people;
  • Services of a 2nd mountain guide on the day of ascent for a group of 5-8 people;
  • Services of a 3rd mountain guide on the day of ascent for a group of 8-12 people;
  • Ascent and descent on the Elbrus cable car;
  • Ensuring safety (registration with the Ministry of Emergency Situations, GPS navigator, communication along the route, first aid kit);
  • Certificate of climbing to the top of Elbrus for each participant;

THE PRICE OF THE TOUR "Winter ascent to Elbrus from the South" DOES NOT INCLUDE:

  • Travel from your place of residence to the city of Mineralnye Vody and back;
  • Rental of personal climbing equipment (crampons, ice ax, harness, trekking poles, sleeping bag, backpack, etc.);
  • Lunches and dinners when staying at a hotel;
  • Renting a snowcat on the night of the ascent to lift the group from “Bochek” to the Pastukhov rocks - 60-70 Euro per person. The cost of renting a snowcat depends on the number of people in the snowcat and the lift height;
  • Accident insurance;

NECESSARY DOCUMENTS FOR CLIMBING ELBRUS:

  • Passport;
  • Medical policy;

FEATURES OF THE TOUR "CLIMBING ELBRUS"

This tour belongs to the climbing class. According to the mountaineering classification, the route along which the ascent to Elbrus takes place from the South (the Western peak of Elbrus or the Eastern peak of Elbrus) is defined as a route of 2 A category of difficulty.

The route does not present any technical difficulties.

However, natural factors - such as altitude and associated air rarefaction, cold, frost, frequent winds, lack of visibility in bad weather, the release of sulfur dioxide gases (Mount Elbrus is, according to one opinion, an extinct volcano, according to another opinion), increased activity solar radiation; - all this requires climbers to be in good physical shape, endurance, and quality equipment.

CLIMBING ELBRUS. SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS FOR PARTICIPANTS:

  • There are no medical contraindications to mountain sports.
  • Good physical form.
  • Age limit – not younger than 14 years. From the age of 14, it is possible to travel with parents or close relatives who have written parental permission to participate in this tour.

SAFETY AND MEDICAL MEASURES:

Each group is equipped with a first aid kit, radio stations and navigation aids (GPS). All groups are registered in the Elbrus detachment of the Russian Ministry of Emergency Situations (Terskol village). You can contact the rescuers of the Ministry of Emergency Situations along the entire route. You only need to take with you individual medications (vitamins, headache pills, adhesive plaster, etc.)

IMPORTANT INFORMATION!!!

  • Due to the increased danger of the tour, the instructions of the guide given by him during the ascent or in preparation for it in terms of ensuring safety are mandatory for all participants.
  • The decision on whether a group will go out to climb Elbrus or whether the group will return (descent) from the route is made by the guide, depending on the weather, the condition of the route and/or the health status of the participants. The decision is binding on all group members.
  • Depending on weather conditions and the condition of the group, the tour program can be changed in agreement with the group members.
  • The travel agency is not responsible for failure to climb due to the physical unpreparedness or personal indiscipline of the climbers, bad weather or the condition of the route.
  • Controversial issues can be resolved before the climb to Elbrus through negotiations while drinking a container of tea together, or after descending to the shelter.

THE TOUR ORGANIZERS RESERVE THE RIGHT TO TERMINATE AND/OR SHORTEN THE TOUR FOR INDIVIDUAL TOURISTS OR FOR THE WHOLE GROUP WITHOUT PAYMENT OF COMPENSATION IN THE FOLLOWING CASES:

  • unauthorized actions of tourists violating the rules of safety and behavior in the mountains;
  • non-compliance with the rules of public order and excessive consumption of alcoholic beverages;
  • displays of disrespect for the local population and nature;

PHONE ON ELBRUS:

Almost all cellular operators - MTS, Megafon and Bee-Line - operate quite steadily in this area. In the very center of the village of Terskol, you can buy a local SIM card from any cellular operator at the post office.

Also in the village of Terskol there is an Internet cafe, a bank and several ATMs.

Program Cost How to get there Information sheet

“For a moment we were speechless in front of this amazing panorama; it was not like the Alps, nor the Pyrenees, nor anything we had seen; it seemed that no one, even the most refined imagination, could imagine it. Caucasus..."
Alexandre Dumas the father

Contrary to popular belief about the difficulty and danger of climbing Elbrus, climbing to the highest point of Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus is a prestigious extreme journey - accessible to ordinary physically healthy people who do not have special mountain training. All you need is the desire, the ability to break away from the benefits of civilization for a while, to forget about it for a week. And plunge into the atmosphere of pristine nature, the cold of glaciers and snow, the morning unearthly beauty of the majestic Elbrus, go through all this despite the frost, laziness, the wild “I don’t want” of your own body, sleeping while you move your resisting legs with an effort of thought. And having gone through this, you are rewarded with an almost primitive feeling of freedom, when after the next step you discover that there is no one and nothing above you... The mountains that you looked at in the valley with your head up are somewhere there... below. And, probably, only there, at the top, do you very keenly understand that there can be no talk of any conquest (we can only talk about climbing the Mountain) of the Mountain. That's what those who have never been there say. And only then, below, you will understand that you must return there more than once...

As statistics from previous years of our work show, nine out of ten of our guests successfully climb Elbrus - the highest five-thousander in the Caucasus. Well, of course, if the weather doesn't interfere. Professional guides, high-quality equipment and an optimal acclimatization program will make this trip as safe as possible.

We offer a group tour. And if you are planning to go with your company - call, write, we will organize a tour within the time frame specified by you...

1 day

Arrival to the program

Arrival in Mineralnye Vody. Meeting at the airport in Mineralnye Vody. Transfer to the village of Terskol (3-4 hours along the mountain road to Mount Elbrus in the Baksan Gorge).

Hotel accommodation in double standard rooms. Welcome dinner in a cafe with national cuisine. Introducing the group to the guide. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 2

Day of active acclimatization in the Elbrus region.

After breakfast at the hotel, we go out to the high mountain zone for acclimatization. Climb to the “Devichy Kosy” waterfall and the observatory of the Russian Academy of Sciences (3000 meters) or climb Mount Cheget on foot.

Climbing up, we will see the Western and Eastern peaks of Elbrus, as well as the entire ascent route.

After a walk and lunch, your mountain guide will help you sort out the necessary equipment for climbing the mountain. The missing equipment can be rented at the rental point.

Dinner. Overnight at a hotel in the village of Terskol.

Day 3

Ascent to “Bochki” (3800 meters). Acclimatization trek from the Bochki shelter to Shelter-11.

Breakfast. Transfer from the hotel to the village of Azau to the lower station of the Elbrus cable car (2500 meters).

Today, the whole group, along with equipment and food, takes a cable car to the Bochki mountain shelter. We move in and get comfortable in our mountain home. There is already a good altitude here - 3800 meters, but for the best result it is important for us to rise as high as possible.

Therefore, after a light lunch and hot tea, we go to the Shelter-11 area (4200 meters) or a little higher to the beginning of the rocky ridge (4300-4400 meters) - according to the group’s well-being.

After exiting, descend to the shelter. Overnight at the shelter.

4 day

Climbing to the rocks of the ridge and higher up to 4600 meters.

Breakfast. Acclimatization access to the rocks of the ridge (4400 meters) and higher up to 4600 meters.

Practical lesson with climbing equipment.

Return to the shelter. Rest. Dinner. Overnight at the shelter.

5 day

Climbing Pastukhov Rocks. Height 4800 meters.

After breakfast, we continue acclimatization in the high mountain zone. Climbing the Pastukhov rocks. The height here is already quite serious - 4800 meters.

Depending on how the group feels, you can climb up to 5000 meters. If necessary, railings are hung above the Pastukhov rocks. Today there will be a training session during which you will be able to practice moving with crampons on snow and ice terrain, “self-restraint” when falling with an ice ax, as well as moving along railings (working with a rope).

Return to the shelter. Overnight at the shelter.

Day 6

Today is a day of rest and a day of preparation for climbing Elbrus.

Our program with a gradual climb to altitude and a day of rest allows the body to adapt most effectively. And good acclimatization and well-being at altitude are the key to successfully reaching the top.

Early lights out. Overnight at the shelter.

Day 7

Climbing to the top of Elbrus (5642 meters).

Today is climbing day. Early rise at 2.00. Light breakfast. If the weather is good, start the climb at 3 am. The ascent to the Western peak of Elbrus, depending on the speed of the group, takes from 8 to 10 hours. You need to be at the top before 13:00. After this time, all group members must begin their descent, no matter where they are at that moment.

The descent from the top takes 5-6 hours. The decision on whether the group will enter the route or descend from it is made by your mountain guide and is mandatory for all group members.

Those who wish can ascend during the night by snowcat from Bochek to the lowest point of the Pastukhov rocks (4600 meters). This saves 3-4 hours of time.

Dinner. Overnight at the shelter.

Day 8

Descent to Terskol.

Breakfast. We collect our backpacks and take the Elbrus cable car down to the foot of the mountain. Transfer from Azau to the village of Terskol.

Accommodation in our hotel in double rooms with hot shower. Free time. You can order a sauna or steam bath, organize a fishing trip, or just take a walk to the Cheget clearing to buy souvenirs.

In the evening, according to tradition, there is a festive dinner in a cafe with national cuisine. Congratulations “Happy Mountain!” and issuing certificates for climbing Elbrus. Overnight at a hotel in Terskol.

Day 9

Departure home.

Breakfast. Transfer from the village of Terskol to the city of Mineralnye Vody. Departure home.

Tour cost:
RUB 33,500
Included in the price: Group meeting in the city of Mineralnye Vody; Transfer Mineralnye Vody city - Terskol village and back; Transfer village Terskol - st. Azau and back; Hotel accommodation in double and triple rooms in the village of Terskol or the village of Elbrus - three days; Three breakfasts at the hotel; Accommodation in the high-mountain shelter "Gara-Bashi" ("Barrels") - 5 days; Food during your stay at the Gara-Bashi mountain shelter; Rent of group special equipment to ensure safety on the route (ropes for lashings, for handrails, carabiners, ice screws); Rental of kitchen equipment (gas burners, cylinders, dishes); Accompanying the group with a mountain guide throughout the entire program (the price includes one ascent attempt); Ascent and descent on the Elbrus cable car; Snowcat rental st.Mir - st. Gara-Bashi and back for lifting cargo and equipment; Ensuring safety (registration with the Ministry of Emergency Situations, GPS navigator, communication along the route, first aid kit); Certificate of climbing to the top of Elbrus for each participant; The price does not include: Travel from your place of residence to the city of Mineralnye Vody and back; 4 dinners per day of stay at a hotel in the village of Terskol. One set dinner at the hotel costs 300 rubles for a group member on Elbrus, or you can order dinner separately from the menu; Rental of personal climbing equipment (crampons, ice ax, harness, trekking poles, sleeping bag, backpack, etc.); Cook services at a mountain shelter on Mount Elbrus 2500 rubles/person. Chef services can be ordered in advance or you can prepare your own meals at the shelter under the guidance of a guide. Products and kitchen equipment for preparing meals are included in the tour price; Renting a snowcat on the night of the climb to lift the group from “Bochek” to the Pastukhov rocks - from 40 Euro per person. The cost of renting a snowcat depends on the number of people in the snowcat and the lift height; Accident insurance; Bathhouse, souvenirs and drinks (beer, juices, alcohol);

You can get to the city of Mineralnye Vody by plane from Moscow or St. Petersburg. An air ticket costs 10,000 - 15,000 rubles. There and back again. Flights are operated by Aeroflot, Yur Air, and S7 Airlaines. You can also get there by train. It's a day's drive from Moscow. At 15:00 we meet arrivals at the airport, at 16:30 at the railway station. Tickets from Moscow should be taken for a morning flight to be in Mineralnye Vody by 15:00, and return tickets from Mineralnye Vody to Moscow for evening flights.

Winter ascent to Elbrus is a severe test for anyone who sets such a goal. Low temperatures, squally winds, and icy slopes make the peak of Elbrus almost inaccessible in winter. And yet, people climb Elbrus in winter.
For what?
Some - in order to acclimatize before higher mountains, for example, Aconcagua, or prepare to climb Everest. Others - to see Elbrus in winter, feel the indomitable power of the elements, at the same time go skiing or snowboarding and relax your soul. To enjoy attempting a winter climb to Elbrus, you need to understand that the chances of reaching the top are much less than in summer. This is the case when people go to the mountains not for the sake of the result, but for the sake of the process itself. We focus specifically on such people and organize a sincere, unforgettable, and most importantly - safe trip to Elbrus for the New Year!

During the New Year holidays 2019/2020 we offer a winter 9-day ascent to Elbrus from the south side -

30.12 - 07.01 (9 days) - price 59500,0* rubles, including 3 meals a day on all days of the tour. New Year - your choice: either in the Cheget clearing, or in the modern comfortable high-mountain shelter "Heart of Elbrus" for 100 places with its own cafe in the shelter building.

Attention! Thanks to the comfort, spaciousness and convenient location of the “Heart of Elbrus” shelter (located next to the upper station of the Gara-Bashi cable car), you can invite your friends and relatives with you not only to the New Year’s celebration, but also to all days of the tour: while you prepare to climb - they may ski(a rare pleasure to go down on freshly fallen snow before the cable car has yet lifted skiers and snowboarders from the valley), learn how to do it with our instructor, Tasting local national cuisine(be sure to try the khychin and zhau-baur) or go down on the cable car both for forest walks and to participate in one of the excursions to the sights of Kabardino-Balkaria (the hit of the season is the hot mineral baths of Geduko near the city of Baksan).

For those who arrived in Terskol/Azau/Cheget on their own, have already spent several days on the slopes of Elbrus, are “accustomed” to an altitude of 3800 meters and want to join the groups directly from the days of active acclimatization, We offer a shortened 7-day climbing program:

01.01 - 07.01 (7 days)- price 49500,0 rubles, including accommodation and meals in a mountain shelter, guide services, use of public equipment.

* - when booking New Year's tours before June 1, a discount of 5% of the tour cost is provided

Requirements for participants:
- excellent physical fitness and endurance,
- experience in climbing mountains at least 5000 meters high,
- having the skills to move in crampons on various ice terrain, confident use of an ice axe,
- absence of cardiovascular diseases,
- psychological readiness for low (below - 30) temperatures and discomfort.

New Year's program for climbing Elbrus from the south (9 days).

December 30th. Meeting the group at Mineralnye Vody airport at 14:30. Transfer to the hotel in the Baksan Gorge.

31th of December. Acclimatization hike up Mount Cheget; After lunch, those who wish can go skiing or snowboarding there on their own. Overnight at the hotel.

1st of January. Rise by cable car to Gara-Bashi station (3800 m), then walk to the Shelter of the Eleven (4100 m) or higher, weather permitting. Those who wish can take skis or a snowboard with them and, after completing the acclimatization program, ride on the snowy slopes on their own. Overnight at the hotel. Today is the final day before climbing to the upper camp, and the guide will help you pick up the missing rental equipment.

January 2. Ascent with all equipment to the mountain shelter on the slope of Elbrus (3800 m). Things that you will not need during the climb can be left at the hotel. After accommodation in a mountain shelter, we will have tea and a light snack and continue acclimatization at altitudes of 4300-4500 m. Today, the guide will conduct snow and ice classes on the slope, where you will refresh your skills in walking with crampons on ice slopes and moving in bundles. Overnight at the shelter.

January 3. Acclimatization climb to the Pastukhov rocks (4700-4800 m). The slope above 4200 m may be icy, and the guide will secure ropes for belaying. Overnight in a mountain shelter.

4 January. Rest day before the climb. Today you can ride all day or relax in a cafe.

5 January. Climbing day. If the weather permits, the group sets out on the route at 1 a.m. Participants can decide to cover part of the route to an altitude of 4200-4500 m on a snowcat, which is paid additionally; In this case, the exit time is postponed 1.5-2 hours later. Reaching the summit is before 13.00, from 14.00 all participants must move only downwards. Overnight in a mountain shelter.

6th January. Reserve day for climbing. If on the previous day the weather did not allow going out on the route, then the group makes an attempt today. In this case, the participants go down to the hotel for the night.

Jan. 7. Transfer to the airport by 9:30 am. If you wish, you can stay at the hotel for your holiday, we will reserve places for you

The tour price includes:

Group transfer at 14:30 from Mineralnye Vody airport to the hotel on the day of arrival
- return transfer from the hotel to the airport by 9:30 am
- hotel accommodation in the Baksan Gorge (4 nights)
- accommodation in a mountain shelter (4 nights)
- 3 meals a day on all days of the tour
- transfers from the hotel to the Azau cable car station at the foot of Elbrus and back
- one guide for the entire program + assistant guides for the day of ascent at the rate of 1 guide for 2-3 participants
- safety equipment: walkie-talkie, ropes, anchors, GPS navigator
- climbing certificate

The tour price does not include:

Rent of personal equipment for climbing
- lunches and dinners during hotel stays
- tickets for cable cars
- fee for visiting the Elbrus National Park
- cost of travel on a snowcat on the day of ascent (from 5 thousand rubles, depends on the number of passengers and the height of the climb)

Notes:

* The price includes one attempt at climbing on one of two possible days (days 7 - 8). An attempt is considered to be the departure of the group together with the guides from the shelter no later than 03:00 hours and an ascent to an altitude of at least 4500 meters. If the attempt does take place and turns out to be unsuccessful for the entire group or individual participants (due to weather conditions or poor health), the attempt can be repeated on a reserve day by paying for accommodation in a high-mountain shelter and guide services. If the attempt was not used on the planned day of ascent (due to bad weather), then a reserve day is used without additional payment.

** We will make every effort to ensure that the ascent takes place, but we cannot guarantee success. If the ascent was prevented by the participant’s lack of physical fitness or unfavorable weather conditions, the organization does not pay any compensation.

*** Staying in the mountains is potentially dangerous. Therefore, all orders and instructions of the guide are mandatory for all participants in the ascent. The decision to go out on the route and to return both the entire group and individual participants is made by the guide.

Let's start with the result: you can go to Elbrus in winter. But you need to take into account the condition of the route, the weather forecast, and the condition of the participants.

I had 4 clients: Zhenya, Vladimir, Ruslan, Igor. For each of them, this was the first attempt to climb to the top. Previously, they were higher than 2-3 thousand meters. didn't rise at all. And they dealt with the mountains only insofar as they skied and snowboarded.

The group is inexperienced and new, we first met in the Elbrus region in order to get to know each other better in 8 days, acclimatize and finally try to climb Elbrus. We acclimatized in the format familiar to the guys - in the form of skiing and snowboarding at altitudes of 3000-3600 m.

Plus we climbed once to the Pastukhov rocks (4600 m). We rode for three days and got used to it.

Then we climbed straight to Shelter 11 (4130), where we spent three nights for acclimatization and waiting for the weather. We walked to the rocks and worked out on the ice.

According to the tactical plan, the ascent was supposed to take place on the night of December 31 to January 1 - I wanted to spend New Year's Eve in an unusual way and at the same time be the first to climb to the top this year. The forecast promised good weather for that day, but then shifted by a day.

On the 31st at 10 pm we began to celebrate the New Year, because somewhere it had already arrived :) By the way, anticipating the train of thoughts after this phrase, I will note that the ascent was very sober. The younger generation does not recognize abuses, as it turned out :) We honestly tried to climb, but there was no visibility, the wind was 50-60 km/h. The weather on New Year's Eve turned out to be completely unflying.

And the next day the promised good weather arrived. We planned to leave at 3 am, and that’s what happened. The weather is truly ideal.

We climbed to the saddle, it seemed that nothing would stop us, but... This is where a surprise emerged. It turned out that one of the participants, Volodya, had an iron leg. These are the kind of surprises that can lie in wait in a “meeting at the foot” situation :)

Volodya could not go any further; his strength ran out and his leg began to hurt. We did not have the option to continue the ascent to the rest of the participants. I am the only guide in the group, so it was decided in advance that only everyone would go together.

The rest could have climbed, but there was no question of leaving Volodya alone on the saddle in winter. We turned everything around and failed to reach the top. Of course, it’s a pity, we were close...

And in conclusion, a few more words about the excitement around climbing Elbrus. I repeat, you can go to Elbrus. And in winter it’s possible. And with beginners it’s possible. Another thing is that you need to do this without forgetting for a second about the same three factors: the condition of the route, the condition of the participants, and the weather forecast. All. And of course, no disregard for the rules. On the traverse, the guy’s ice ax flew off, I forbade him to even take a step towards it - because I remember how this slope below the trail looks without snow...

For several years now, every February, a team of our instructors has been going to… winter Elbrus! And 2020 will be no exception! There are several places on the team and you can join us if you:

  1. Have you climbed Elbrus in the summer or have experience climbing to heights of 5000+?
  2. You have good physical and mental preparation (you have extensive experience in mountain hiking). Otherwise, you can join us without the goal of reaching the top and limit yourself to stunning views from the alpine shelter, technical training, skiing or snowboarding. The winter ascent to Elbrus will take place along the southern route according to the “comfort” program - with accommodation in a hotel below and a high-mountain shelter above.
Route type Duration Route complexity Hiking dates in 2020
On foot. Climbing 10 days Difficult. Need a good
physical fitness and experience of climbing to altitudes of 5000+
February 14-23

Plan for winter ascent to Elbrus:

Day 1: We meet opposite the Pyatigorsk railway station at the Kirov monument at 10 am, the transfer takes us to Azau. We have lunch, check into a hotel, check and adjust our equipment. If necessary, we go for rentals. Clarification of goals and priorities.

Day 2: Acclimatization hike to Terskol peak (3127m). We check the equipment and change it if necessary. We have dinner and overnight at a hotel in Terskol.

Day 3: Acclimatization climb to a height of 4200-4400 m along the southern slope of Elbrus. First we take the cable car up to the Mir station, 3500 m. Overnight in Terskol, we prepare our backpacks for moving to the shelter.

Day 4: Today we are moving to the Bochki shelter. We take the cable car up to an altitude of 3850 m, check into a shelter, have lunch and go on an acclimatization trip to an altitude of 4600-4800 m, conduct ice training. We return to the shelter, have dinner and relax.

Day 5: After breakfast, we will have an acclimatization trip to an altitude of 4800-5000 m, hanging the railings for the upcoming ascent, and ice training. We spend the night in “Bochki”.

Day 6: Day of rest. We descend to an altitude of 3000 m or lower - at will. In the evening we move to the upper shelter at an altitude of 4200 m, check our equipment, have dinner and go to bed early.

Day 7: Go for a morning jog at 3.00. Visit local attractions, check the stability of the summit stone of the Western Summit, return to the shelter 4200 m, with the removal of ropes along the way.

Day 8: spare day in case of bad weather.

Day 9: spare day. In the evening descent to Terskol. Gala dinner at the hotel. Spare days can be used for skiing or snowboarding.

Day 10: In the morning departure to Pyatigorsk.

List of required equipment:

General tourist equipment and clothing:

Large backpacking backpack (you must leave empty space for public equipment and food)
- assault backpack (30-40 l)
- sleeping bag (comfort temperature not less than -5) and mat. More about selection
- trekking poles (optional, but they are more convenient)
- trekking boots (for radial excursions), rubber slippers (for hotels)
- thermal underwear: pants + jacket
- fleece jacket + pants
- storm pants + jacket (membrane, wind and moisture protection)
- down jacket (jacket with down insulation)
- insulated pants (with down or synthetic insulation)
- fleece gloves
- thick down mittens (basic)
- one more mittens (spare)
- T-shirt, underwear, towel
- 2 pairs of thick woolen socks, several pairs of walking socks (cotton or special trekking socks)
- sunglasses (lens darkening degree not less than 4)
- ski mask (in case of bad weather, the simplest one)
- fleece balaclava
- thick fleece or thick wool hat
- sunscreen (protection 50+)
- personal hygiene products, personal first aid kit
- headlamp and spare batteries for it
- thermos
- KLMN (mug, spoon, bowl, knife)
- personal “go-to” snack (several chocolate bars)

Climbing equipment:

Cats
- lower harness (included in the price if you don’t have your own)
- ready-made lanyards or a piece of dynamic rope 3 meters long and 9 mm in diameter.
- a piece of cord with a diameter of 6-7 mm. and 1.5 meters long.
- zhumar
- trigger (figure eight/reverso/gri-gri)
- ice ax (included in the price if you don’t have your own)
- 2 ice screws + 2 carabiners without coupling
- helmet (included in the price if you don’t have your own)
- 3 carabiners with coupling
- mountaineering boots. For winter climbing, special high-altitude models (La Sportiva Olympus, Spantik, Zamberlan 8000, Millet Everest) or plastic boots paired with insulated shoe covers are suitable.

Where to get climbing equipment:

Option 1: rent in the Elbrus region. The prices for this rental can be found here. Rentals provide discounts to our members.

Option 2: rent at a rental office in Moscow. Moscow rental prices can be found here. Rentals provide discounts to our members.

Option 3: renting from our rental is the cheapest option, but the amount of equipment in our rental is limited - book well in advance! You can see the prices.

Option 4: purchase your equipment. Write to us and we will help you with your choice! We also provide it in many equipment stores.

List of required documents:

Identity document (Russian passport)
- health insurance policy

* If you plan to rent any equipment in the Elbrus region, then take with you a document that you can leave as a deposit. For example, a driver's license.

Meals (included in price):

At the hotel: We have breakfast and dinner in the hotel cafe. Breakfast usually includes: cottage cheese, milk porridge, scrambled eggs, cheese, bread, butter, tea and coffee in unlimited quantities, lemon. Dinner includes: soup, main course, salad, bread, cookies or pastries, tea and coffee in unlimited quantities.

At acclimatization exits: In the afternoon, during acclimatization trips, we have a hearty snack. Each participant receives an individual snack in the morning: nuts, dried fruits, chocolate, cookies, and also brews tea in his thermos before leaving and takes it with him.

In the high mountain shelter: here we will have at our disposal the usual “urban” products (vegetables, fruits, cereals, canned food, cookies, dried goods, jam, halva, chocolate, honey, etc.) from which we will prepare a variety of camp dishes: sweet cereals for breakfast, soups for lunch, main courses for dinner.

On the summit climb: Before storming the summit, each participant receives an individual snack: nuts, dried fruits, chocolate, fruit, cookies.

Accommodations:

At the hotel: the hotel is located in a picturesque pine forest on the banks of the Baksan River, accommodation in comfortable 2-4 bed rooms, all amenities in the room, wi-fi, TV, clothes dryer, luggage storage.

In the high mountain shelter: shared rooms for 6-10 people in metal trailers reminiscent of a polar station. We sleep in sleeping bags on wooden floors covered with polyurethane mats, or on beds covered with mattresses. The inside of the trailers is quite warm and dry. We cook and eat in a separate large dining trailer.

Cost of the trip:

Cost of participation: 35,000 rub.

What's included in the price:

Transfer from Pyatigorsk to Terskol and back
- accommodation in a comfortable hotel according to the program
- meals at the hotel according to the program (breakfast + dinner)
- accommodation in a high mountain shelter according to the program (6 days, including spare days)
- food in a high mountain shelter
- transfer of equipment and personal belongings by snowcat from “Barrels” to the shelter 3900 m.
- ascent by cable car according to the program (1 time to the “Mir” station, 1 time to the upper “Garabashi”)
- certificate of successful ascent to Elbrus
- work of instructors
- public climbing equipment (ropes, station loops, etc.)
- radio communication
- group first aid kit
- registration of the group with the Ministry of Emergency Situations

What is not included in the price:

Directions to Pyatigorsk/Mineralnye Vody
- pocket expenses, souvenirs, bathhouse, etc.

Possible additional expenses:

Order a bath after descent (300-500 rubles per person)
- visit to a cafe (on average 500 rubles per lunch)
- buying souvenirs
- purchase of a personal “go-to” snack (several chocolate bars)
- rental of personal climbing equipment (crampons, harness, ice axe, helmet, carabiner)
- use of snowmobiles, snowcats and lifts not according to the program.
- hotel accommodation not according to the program.

Payment and booking:

Participation in the winter ascent to Elbrus can be paid in full directly to the instructor on the first day of the expedition. To reserve a place in a group, you must make an advance payment of 20% Attention: a refund of the advance payment for participation in the winter ascent to Elbrus is possible no later than three months before the start of the hike (no later than November 14, 2019).

1. Mountaineering is potentially dangerous and may harm your health.

2. Weather in the mountains is the most important factor determining the success and safety of the entire expedition. The weather can make its own adjustments - you need to be prepared for this. We will not storm the mountain “at any cost” and in any weather. That is why there are 2 spare days in the expedition schedule (a total of 3 assault attempts).

3. Almost everywhere along the route there is cellular communication.

4. How does winter climbing Elbrus differ from summer climbing? — In short, much more severe conditions. In winter it is much colder - the temperature at the top can be down to -40 degrees, and taking into account the wind, even lower. There is a lot of snow on the slopes - especially at the bottom (you may have to trail). There may be so-called ice fields at the top, which will need to be processed in advance before storming the summit. Daylight hours are shorter in winter - sunrise is later and sunset is earlier, so you need to climb the summit at a good pace.

Harsh conditions create certain requirements for the training of climbers: firstly, experience is needed. It’s definitely not worth starting your acquaintance with mountaineering with a winter climb to Elbrus. Secondly, you need good equipment. Going to the top in single-layer trekking boots will not work! Equipment can be purchased or rented.

But visiting Elbrus in winter is an incomparable experience! Dazzling white mountains everywhere you look, fresh clean snow, few people (at the top), a more interesting route, the opportunity to ski or snowboard.